Hydraulic cylinder
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46770
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Topic: Hydraulic cylinder
Posted By: Mark G.
Subject: Hydraulic cylinder
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2012 at 7:52am
 Both of my hydraulic cylinders on my tractor have bad seals/packing, so I'm looking for a place where I can get the kit and replace them my self. There is a place near me, but they are a little to expensive for my pocket. I know other places where I can get the whole rebuilt cylinder, but thats to rich for me also. Does any one know where I can find the parts? Thanks for the Help.
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Replies:
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2012 at 8:02am
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Your Agco dealer should have them. Have you tried to tighten the nut? What do you call too expensive? MACK |
Posted By: Mark G.
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2012 at 8:08am
| When the cylinders were on the tractor I could pull the ram in and out of the sleeve by hand. I tried to loosen the nuts, but they are rusted on I think. I am not to the hydraulic parts yet, but I thought I'd ask so I have an idea of where to go and what to do when I get there. For the hydraulic, anythin over $150 is a little to expensive. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2012 at 9:21am
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It is important to determine if the rods are clean and without irregularities. Scratches on the rods will wipe out the packing. There is also a bronze guide bushing inside that "guides" the rod. The packings themselves can be bought for about $10 per cylinder last I knew. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: didgood
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2012 at 2:09pm
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How smooth do the rods need to be? I'm working on adding hydraulics to my set up and have some minor pitting (i.e. .010 or smaller). Rods otherwise are clean and shiny. Sorry for the thread hijack... |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2012 at 4:34pm
Probably get by a long time as long as the packing isn't too tight. These kind of cylinders need a small amount of weeping to lubricate the upper part of the packing. If it's too tight, the top will run dry and get chewed up. Gaulding on a rod will eat up the packing though. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
didgood wrote:Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2012 at 6:39pm
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Baum Hydraulics at Omaha has many cylinder reseal kits and individual seals of most types. You can download their catalog, it will be the last section, I think by maker and tractor. Sometimes it takes large tools to get caps off and on hydraulic cylinders. Gerald J. |
Posted By: RickUP
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2012 at 7:09pm
| I baught mine at motion industies. I just braught in the old ones and they ordered the whole kit for each cylinder. I will look for part nos. tomorrow. 20.00 each hits me, but not sure. |
Posted By: SteveC(NS)
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2012 at 7:30am
| Mark, I'm no help here but what Model A-C is your tractor? |
Posted By: Rawleigh
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2012 at 8:59am
| On a pitted rod, you can use a drill to clean out the pit and use solder to build it back up. Dress it down with a file and emory paper. JB Weld has also worked in a pinch. |
Posted By: didgood
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2012 at 2:38pm
| Thanks for the suggestions |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2012 at 5:31pm
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Besides the solder and JB weld for pits, a better cure is a new shaft. Sometimes you can buy chrome plated shaft material from a place like Baum Hydraulics and a good machine shop can replicate the threads to fit the piston and the linkage. There used to be a shop in Iowa that (charged $25 a cylinder to take them apart to make an estimate) that would plan to have a machine shop grind down the pitted rod, then have a plating shop build it back up and then have the machine shop grind it back round and to size. The price was twice that of a new cylinder. And the plating shop didn't want to do it because the pits were so bad. Clearly that hydraulics shop was planning on dealing with municipal and county customers who had no idea of replacement costs. I don't know if they are still in business, I KNOW I'm not darkening their door again. Gerald J. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2012 at 5:37pm
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I have made several new rods. The last one I made was for the build a B and I think the chrome stock was about $20 then. Took maybe an hour of machine time. Tearing apart, cleaning up and putting back together another hour+. I think I put a new guide bushing in too. It makes for a nice dependable cylinder afterwards, good for another 50 years or so. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Mark G.
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 3:28pm
| My tractor is a 1956 WD45. |
Posted By: RickUP
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 7:06pm
| Ok, I found my invoice. One each, (1 00592 H 85229 03891747 male adapter) One each, (2 00592 H 85228 03891746 female adapter) $1.36 each. four each, 3 00592 H 85230 03891748 VEE) $1.36 each. They refer to this as a v-pack. It worked in my rear lift cylinders on my 53' wd-45. I repacked three of them at a cost of $31.13. from Motion Industies. |