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Head Gasket Instalation

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46375
Printed Date: 03 Sep 2025 at 4:00pm
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Topic: Head Gasket Instalation
Posted By: BLee Mn
Subject: Head Gasket Instalation
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2012 at 12:53pm
ready to put head back on my WF, Do you guys install head Gasket Dry or use a gasket sealer?

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Cowboy UP



Replies:
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2012 at 1:29pm
Unless the gasket specifically calls for a sealer, they go on dry.

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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7


Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2012 at 2:10pm
I always spray mine with copper or aluminum spary paint, let dry for 5-10 minutes. Don't know if necessary, however, it used to be that the gaskets came off easier when treated this way.

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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC


Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2012 at 3:34pm
Blee what brand gasket do you have? victor or felpro are both ok, they have metal rings around holes for water- oil- and compression, some junk gaskets don't have  them. If its a good gasket dry is ok although I knew a old AC mechanic that sprayed his with aluminum paint as Greg sugested. head should be re-tourqued after warmup!


Posted By: norm[ind]
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2012 at 8:19pm
  used alum. paint for 50 y rs. will always come apart  have painted it twice an used it over
  in the 1960,s   and up            


Posted By: BLee Mn
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2012 at 9:50pm
Originally posted by norm[ind norm[ind wrote:

]   used alum. paint for 50 y rs. will always come apart  have painted it twice an used it over
  in the 1960,s   and up            
????

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Cowboy UP


Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2012 at 10:10pm
Another sure proof product to use is a pipe joint compound called "Blue Magic". I've used it on reasonably good old gaskets that were hard to buy any more (as well as on some new ones). On gas or diesel engines we've never had a failure or leak in 38 years. You only need a very thin film of this compound and don't get it on your clothes 'cause you'll never ever wash it out with anything.  


Posted By: Dave in il
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2012 at 11:05pm
I use coppercoat spray

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AGCO My Allis Gleaner Company


Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 4:51am
Please don't laugh, but when we did them we used shellac. Remember this was in the 40's and 50's.
Worked well for us then. I'm certain there is better stuff available now.
Good Luck!
Bill Long


Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 7:35am
At one time there was some called Gasket Shellac.
Today many head gaskets say right on them DO NOT COAT.

Dusty


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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"


Posted By: Bob D. (La)
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 7:41am
Something I learned many years back,probably 50's or 60's. Coat both side of head gasket with a thin coat of grease. Never had one fail so I still do it to this day.

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When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!!


Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 11:22am
These engines (unless worked) don't have particularly high compression so installing them with nothing is probably fine. Some gaskets may even instruct you to do it that way.
Having said that, I use  aluminum paint; spray one coat and let dry; spray a light second coat and install wet. Necessary? Probably not!
I originally got the idea from an old time Ford mechanic who told me this was the method Ford recommended when they started to jack up the compression on the 312 Y-Blocks.
 


Posted By: Reindeer
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 11:51am
The aluminum paint sounds like a nice idea.  My father was a mechanic during the construction of the Alaska (Al-Can) highway during the war, and he used the grease method, so that is what I have done on a couple of heads.  So far, no problem, touch wood!

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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 12:04pm
Has the gasket got metal on both sides? If so we used to spray them with permatex hitack. Both sides twice and let dry to a tackyness. This was how the old mechanics did it at the AC shop I worked at. Also on WD45 on down to the WC WF they also put a length of packing string in between the metal jacket on the side with the three 3/8" studs to prevent water seepage. This was done to the full length of the gasket on that one side. The D17 engines solved the problem with 7/16" studs torqued down tighter.

More modern no retorque gaskets I've left dry.


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Posted By: BLee Mn
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 12:52pm
yes gasket has metal on both sides, thanks for all the ideas guys!!Thumbs Up

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Cowboy UP


Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 12:52pm
Copper coat is what I use on most gaskets, use to use the Aluminum spray paint but the copper coat seems to work better (either spray or the dober to thin coat it) . 

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Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel.


Posted By: M Diesel
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2012 at 4:06pm
Originally posted by Bob D. (La) Bob D. (La) wrote:

Something I learned many years back,probably 50's or 60's. Coat both side of head gasket with a thin coat of grease. Never had one fail so I still do it to this day.

Same here. I generally use a film of anti-seize. It is important to let the head settle without binding and a little lube makes all that happen. (Sequencing alone is not thorough.) That is mostly what actually happens with the various paints.




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