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WD45 NF TO WF ?

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=45652
Printed Date: 09 Sep 2025 at 9:44pm
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Topic: WD45 NF TO WF ?
Posted By: ctbowles58
Subject: WD45 NF TO WF ?
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 9:07pm
What all do you need to put a wide front-end on a NF tractor i am thinking about putting a wide front on my WD45 loader tractor. do you have to change the big cast iron block on the tractor? thanks tom

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190XT 2WD45 WF D15 D14 CA BIG10 302 & 303 bailers 77G rake 80R mower 6 plows and alot more



Replies:
Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 9:22pm
I think it depends on the narrow front that you have. In most cases the whole front casting would need to be swapped out. There was a narrow front conversion that allowed you to swap back and forth but i believe that was only on a tractor that came factory with a wide front.

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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker


Posted By: acwdwcman
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 9:40pm
the big block will have to be changed.
do you already have the wf end or are you going to buy one?
 


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wd with a freeman model 90 trip loader, wd45, 38 unstylled wc, b 10 garden tractor and 2-14 ac trip plow. grandpa has a 56 wd45. wd. allis chalmers snap coupler blade and 3 bottom snap coupler plow


Posted By: Leonard
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 9:44pm
Not to hard to change from narrow front to wide front.  4 bolts each side of the front casting and the 2 bolts for the steering in the back of the casting.  When installing just have to add the 2 bolts through the front engine support angle.  May want to unbolt the steering support on the right hand frame rail also as this makes it a little easier to put the steering back in.  Also loosen up the bolts down each frame rail to let the front casting slide in easier.  Just remember to support the tractor under the clutch housing just behind the oil pan.

BTDT last winter changed the front of my WD from narrow to wide front.

Leonard


Posted By: ctbowles58
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2012 at 9:47pm
Originally posted by acwdwcman acwdwcman wrote:

the big block will have to be changed.
do you already have the wf end or are you going to buy one?
 
i dont have one yet i may try to find a newer tractor with loader ie.170--175 if it cost to much to change over. thanks tom

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190XT 2WD45 WF D15 D14 CA BIG10 302 & 303 bailers 77G rake 80R mower 6 plows and alot more


Posted By: David Grubb
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 12:15pm
You need to remove the lt. radiator attaching bolt, the lt. bolt for the fwd engine support angle, loosen all the bolts down the lt. frame rail including the 2 attaching the frame rail to the rear end housing. Support the front of the tractor using the rt. frame rail and chock the rear wheels real good. Disconnect the steering shaft at the u-joint near the distributor and remove the bolts for the support for the forward section of the steering shaft. A little pry bar action between the rt frame rail and the old gear box will get things moving. On reassembly it is important that the tapered/wedge shaped washers are in place correctly for the radiator support bolt and the engine front support angle. Also the support angle is shimmed to the engine block and should be checked: clearance plus .010". I have said to loosen the lt. frame rail because loosening the rt rail will give you a big oil spill from the hydraulic compartment; don't ask how I know this. If I missed anything the other guys will surf in.

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Dave


Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 7:31pm
you are right david,also i would get a tap and clean out the threads in the turntable.sure does make it easier getting your steering arm attatched to the turntable...and use the proper length bnolts to attatch thr arm...dont forget to remove at least 1 bolt for the radiator and nose cowl mount...


Posted By: Wayne(IA)
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2012 at 9:14am
Just an FYI. The actual cost of switching to a wide front may be significantly higher if the front end is worn at all. I am in the process of rebuilding a front end and it is going to include a decent amount of work and extra cash to make it tight again. I enjoy projects so I don't mind the extra labor that I'm putting into it but, I have surprised myself with how quickly the $ is adding up. Just something to think about.
Wayne



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