Print Page | Close Window

WC specs

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=45011
Printed Date: 15 Nov 2024 at 6:02pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: WC specs
Posted By: Redwood
Subject: WC specs
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2012 at 9:59pm
Two questions.  We are about to pull the engine in the WC  and due to doing the work in a newly renovated area and not in the drive shed I need to have an Idea of the weight of the block and the crank (all that is left on) As I have the chain falls to set up and I need to know if I need to beef up the trusses. I don't want to if I don't have to because this is a temp location for this and only need it for the engine. I should be good up to about 250 lbs.
and
On this tractors manifold there is a plate about 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" with four bolts. I have not seen a replacement that matches it exactly yet.  the only thing I can figure is is like a heating chamber that warms the intake air the way it set up.  I does not open into the intake directly. Does any one specifically know the engineering purpose of this chamber or have a picture of one ?



Replies:
Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2012 at 10:04pm
I would guess around 400 pounds and you probably have a kerosene /low grade fuel manifold which preheats the fuel.

-------------
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker


Posted By: LouSWPA
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2012 at 10:09pm
I don't know the weight of the block and crank exactly, but I believe you will be somewhat higher than 250. Actually, though, why don't you just make some "T"s out of 2x4's to span a couple of rafters and set on the floor to the left a right of where you will be lifting.

I think you are correct on the manifold, it was to preheat the incoming charge on dual fuel engines


-------------
I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27


Posted By: Redwood
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2012 at 10:13pm
Thanks for the reply for the weight. That's what I was kinda thinking but was hoping for less but will have to brace up the trusses for 400 lbs .  A real pain for 3 minutes worth of work but don't want to damage the barn or the engine.
I'll have to check the manifold thing. It was a gas engine tractor with high compression so the preheat seemed odd.  Dad's pretty sure its the original manifold. Does look to be it's purpose,  I'll research the kerosene further.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2012 at 11:43pm
I think the plate was installed 2 different ways depending on gas or kero.  One way it directed,the other it blocked hot gasses.


Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2012 at 8:05am
The crank weighs somewhere around 60 lbs, I believe from shipping a couple.  Block I can carry by myself so it can't be more than around 150.  It's about all I want to carry.  My dad and I carried a complete engine so I think a ready to run one wouldn't weight more than 400 lbs.
AaronSEIA


Posted By: Redwood
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2012 at 8:53am
Good to know if you can carry the bare block I'll strip it down and drop it.  It's siezed to the bell housing so I cant manover it.  I couldn't risk having it drop loose suddenly then being heavier then expected. 
I am more curious about the manifold though, I was always told the plate was there for one reason but now I'll have to check.  I wonder if I can find reproductions of this?


Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2012 at 9:03am
Along with the bolts that hold the block, it also has a couple of dowels that hold pretty tight as well as the input shaft from the tranny being in the flywheel.  They can take some maneuvering to get loose.  You can look at the AGCO parts book on line at www.agcopartsbook.com sign in as a guest and search for WC.  It's possible you have an aftermarket manifold.  Any chance you can get a picture of it for us to look at.
AaronSEIA


Posted By: Redwood
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2012 at 9:12am
The dowels I am aware of.  Dad remembers most things about the tractor though he admits his memory could fail him on some issues. the flywheel looks a little rough.  It shouldn't be too hard to break free, I just don't want any surprises.  the block is in excelenn shape andI woul like to keep it that way.   I'll check the other computer for photos.


Posted By: Redwood
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2012 at 9:28am


Posted By: Redwood
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2012 at 9:33am
I'm 95% sure this is the original manifold there is no record of the manifold being changed and Dad is positive it is the one that came on it. and yes he was there when it was delivered. 
I don't have a photo yet of it with out the plate but it does not open into the air channels. It would make sense the layout the the chamber that it provides would maintain an extreme amount of heat.  the original manufacture of this manifold would be helpful.  As you can see no identifying marks left on this thing.  Run red hot too many times.


Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2012 at 9:36am
That's the stock manifold for a gas engine. They started using that one at engine #W106509 which would be late 1940.

-------------
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker


Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2012 at 9:49am
The side exit exaust was used on earlier engines and all low octane models.

-------------
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker


Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2012 at 9:49am
Here are the directions (with Photos) from the WC Operator's Manual.


Posted By: Redwood
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2012 at 10:08am
I was pretty sure it was stock and know it is a gas high compression engine.  Does anyone know the engineering reason of the plated chamber?  and is there a reproduction that matches it or is it only the one with the plate with two bolts?
And yes it is a 1948 tractor purchased in 49 new from the dealer.


Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2012 at 1:05pm
The plate helps direct some heat from the exhaust manifold down to the carb to keep it from icing up and causing poor running.
AaronSEIA


Posted By: ALinIL
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2012 at 3:05pm
Redwood - ynot just rent a engine hoist 0r buy one, a 1 ton unit is about $200


Posted By: norm[ind]
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2012 at 7:18pm
  for you guru,s   we just come home with a wc 74811   [parts unit] it has roller rockers on it still intact  talked to 3 differnt people that have seen them[styled unit1938]
  dont say a-c was behind  only ones seen on a tractor in my book  not listed in parts book 


Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2012 at 7:23am
All replacement manifolds seem to be of the newer design.  Available here:
 
http://www.tonystractors.com/acm.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.tonystractors.com/acm.htm
 
http://oktractor.com/zen/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_15_207" rel="nofollow - http://oktractor.com/zen/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_15_207
 
And possibly here:
 
http://www.sandylakeimp.com/" rel="nofollow - http://www.sandylakeimp.com/
 
 


Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2012 at 8:09am
Dave(Il)'s Too Good for Parts post shows a tractor with a real nice original manifold but i guess its already spoken for.


Posted By: Redwood
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2012 at 10:59am
Thanks Stu.  I will  be using this one.  I've been looking into the repair of manifolds online.  The plate is easy, I've torched it off.  I'll redrill the bolt holes. There are some products out there for repairing and I always could build it up.  but we will see.  If we want to use it It will eventually look like this anyways.
Thanks Dave.  I'm guessing from those NOS filters that just sold, I could cast my own manifold cheaper then buying an original IF you could get the owner to part. lol
 
...If it was easy it wouldn't be fun.



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net