Construction and other equipment - Simmell Rollers on H-3

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Simmell Rollers on H-3

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=44249
Printed Date: 27 Jun 2025 at 2:13am
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Topic: Simmell Rollers on H-3

Posted By: orangeman
Subject: Simmell Rollers on H-3
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 9:55am

Guys: Do any of you have Simmell rollers on your H-3's? I picked up a machine with a new U/C on it and most of the original rollers have been replaced with Simmell rollers.

I know they were made in Italy, but why in the heck would they design these rollers so that they could not be greased or oiled?

Lifetime greased roller - not buying that.

Would like to modify so that they can be greased, maybe I need to pull one and start the machining process.

Thoughts and comments appreciated.

Thank-you ....Orangeman

Replies:

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2012 at 10:41am

You will find most rollers are classified as lifetime , they use sealed shafts and bushings instead of bearings like older style. As long as nothing enters the bearing area they are fully lubed for life. If they leak they fail .

Guess it's the same with the SALT track pins where they are lubed and sealed.

-------------
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2012 at 4:07am

Seems a lot of track gear is coming from Italy, and cutting edges etc.

The ones I've met are oil lubed, with a sealing screw in the outer end of the shaft. You need an adapter and a big oil pump. I'm using the track lube pump from an old IH.

Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2012 at 4:11am

Orangeman,

I missed the bit about machining!

FYI I've spent a wet day turning a piece of a roller shaft from a FA 10 into a replacement gear for my lathe (1935 vintage) so I can rehab the steering shaft for an Allis Forty Five.

Does this pass as recycling?

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2012 at 10:41am

The shaft that drives the clutch hub on my Adams 411 grader had worn the splines off, I spent several hours welding the splines back on then grinding my welds back to bring the shaft back to working condition.

Took a lot of weld and grind to get it to fit and work right but end result the grader moves and works . well did , now parked again for last 10 years as no jobs for grader.

Posted By: orangeman
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2012 at 3:16pm

Ian and Coke: Good to know that all of the good old Allis and Fiat Allis steel is being adapted, machined and repurposed. We have too much build it up then tear it down in the U.S.

I inherited a 1944 WWII machinist lathe and will be putting it to good use to keep the Allis Machinery up, working and on the move!

Have a Great Day! Orangeman

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2012 at 6:03pm

My access to a lathe and mill and other such tools made owning them not a top priority for years as the shop I worked in or had access to had most tools.

When I closed down the company after 40 years there I ended up buying most of the equipment and put in my shop.

I did have a Nichimori lathe I had bought (gap bed/17" swing -6' between centers) but now I have the 9" South Bend, 2 Bridgports , power tapping heads, drill press, Miller 304 welder- MIG-TIG (water cooled torch) SMAW , as well as band saw , Wells power band saw- hacksaw, 60 to hydraulic press and other such items. ( I should have bought the 14" Clausing Clouchester lathe also sold for $450 but i have all the Alloris quick change toolpost and such for it now on my Nichimorio)

So with 3 welders now and 3 sets of torches, and my own toolbox , when i left they told me to take my company tool box and put it in the truck also.

Posted By: orangeman
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2012 at 8:02pm

Coke: You're way ahead of me on the shop tools, but I do want to put in a Bridgeport Mill, ( would like to know your recommendations on any brand names that are good quality bridgeport mills).

The lathe I have is a Sheldon, very nice shape but missing its toolpost. Believe I will be looking into an Aloris.

Do you happen to know anything about Wilson Portable Welders, I found a WW II military surplus mounted on a tow behind trailer powered by a Chrysler flathead. Man that thing is built like a tank. The only reference I can find is Wilson Welding products in New York City - they made a Wasp and Hornet Tow behind or portable welders. Am considering adding it to the machinery arsenal.

Any thoughts appreciated. Orangeman

Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 3:24pm

There are better machines for the quality and money than Bridgeport. The new vertical mills that are similar style, I would buy a Lagun, heavier better and wider ways than a Bridgeport. the Aloris tool holder is the best. You won't regret that decision. Bridgeports used to be way ahead on quality, but they aren't any longer. HTH Tracy Martin

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 3:35pm

I got the Bridgeports as the price was right , the one i bought from the shop I worked at I originally bought from another company from their special tools room when they upgraded . I paid $450 for the unit when i brought it home. The 9" South Bend came out of our special research area and had little use or any wear, gave $300 for that with tooling, collets , 3 chucks, milling attachment and face plate.

Somewhere out back I have the stand for a Jet mill , we used the base and table and servo motors to mount a laser welder jig to for welding sieve screens and other such items.

The old DC welding units still have their place but when a problem comes up you might be looking forever for repair parts. New inverter unit for shop use fill more niches in what one works on. I use a small generator and my Pow-Con 250 inverter unit to do field welding.

Posted By: orangeman
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 7:11pm

Tracy and Coke: Thank you for the insights. Appreciate it! Orangeman

Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2012 at 2:56pm

Coke,

You're well ahead of my shop! The lathe now has back gears that work - mostly done with a 4" angle grinder and thin cut-off wheels set up to use the carriage feeds and finished by scraping. Slow though.

This was a test run for the steering shaft spline, where I'll trial a carbide faced rotary hacksaw to start the splines and then finish by scraping.

Ever used Castolin Eutectic 185 work hardening braze? Seems useful for jobs like this, though I'll probably use stainless for the shaft.

Posted By: Ian Beale
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2012 at 4:14am

Coke,

And the steering shaft is done. Built a fixed steady that put the spline parallel to the lathe bed, marked the splines by scraping and finished with angle grinder and bearing blue. It will probably work a bit but if we keep tightening the nut should work good enough for this job.

Posted By: orangeman
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2013 at 7:53am

Tracy: Are the older Bridgeports as stout as the Lagun machine. Also, are the Lagun mills produced here in the States. Thanks for any info...Orangeman

Posted By: blrott
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2013 at 9:49am

need advice on how to pull final drive shafts. both final drives leak. can i get them loose by removing rear cover plate after dropping tracks and sprockets. are the held by a castle nut? never been in the rear end of a dozer before. any advice would be great. thanks. bruce. 920-642-0277.