D-14 Wiring help
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37524
Printed Date: 16 Sep 2025 at 9:56pm
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Topic: D-14 Wiring help
Posted By: Joe7077
Subject: D-14 Wiring help
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2011 at 10:34am
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Hi all. I recently aquired a D-14 with some problems. It was converted to 12v neg ground at some time in the past by, i assume, the pack of flying monkeys from the Wizard of Oz. i've managed to clean up most of the wiring as the original 6v wires were all still in there as well as some wires that were made up of short wires wire nutted together to make longer ones and wires that ran from the front to the rear and were not connected to anything. i have it narrowed down to what i think is the basic amount of wiring needed. At first the tractor started just fine, then it would only start when i let go of the key after spinning the motor up. i changed out the key switch and it started just fine about a dozen times then started doing the same thing again. Now it won't start at all. I had the starter rebuilt and it's 12v with a 12v solenoid, the coil is the original with a big ol' resister between that and the switch, the alternator is a single wire. After looking thru the older posts i have a couple of questions:
1. should i toss the ammeter and replace it with a volt meter, it sounds like there is a fire hazzard if i keep using the original.
2. does anyone make a wiring harness for the d-14 for 12v neg ground?
3. does anyone have a wiring diagram (or could sketch one) of what the wiring should look like for a converted d-14 12 volt neg ground? i've seen generic ones but they don't seem to have all the wires i do.
4. my ignition switch is a 5 post generic napa switch, is that the right switch to use or should i be using a 4 post? (from a d-15 conversion maybe?)
I don't mind getting all new parts for the wiring system i just would like to know what to get so i'm not buying parts i don't need. (i plan on getting a new internal res. coil, 3ohm res and an ammeter or voltmeter - the starter is new now and the alternator is newer) thanks for any help i can get, my apologies for the kind of rambing post.
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Replies:
Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2011 at 10:46am
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Sent you a PM ------------- I Love Meatballs and Dumplings on Toast with Gravy and Rosemary and ??? {Open For Suggestions} |
Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2011 at 11:07am
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Both ignition switches for the D-14 are still available.
Lawnmower key type and jellybean key type. ------------- I Love Meatballs and Dumplings on Toast with Gravy and Rosemary and ??? {Open For Suggestions} |
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2011 at 11:21am
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#1, Gerald will probably chime in and tell you to replace the ammeter with a voltmeter. I have never seen one catch fire. The concern is that it run all the power through your dash box, and could short, but I've never seen it happen. I would run it as is if it's working. #2 Don't need a different harness, just need to swap a couple of wires, and you will be fine. #3 sorry, nothing I could send easily. I'll look to see what I can find if someone doesn't drop you the info you need. #4 As Jeff said, both type of switches are available. If you want factory look, then the jelly bean style he referred to is available. If not, it's a very simple switch, and sounds like you have a functional one now. I would be happy to help with whatever I can. Toll Free 877-378-6543 JimD ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2011 at 12:10pm
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As far as you can tell, the starter is still original? The reason I say this is a 6v starter will crank an engine quite well with a 12v battery that has a dead cell in it. Measure the voltage available to the coil while cranking. If that voltage is dropping below 9.5 volts, you won't have enough output from a 12v ignition system to fire a plug under compression. Pretty good chance you have a bad battery. If it's lighting off the instant you release the start switch, that would be the first test I'd do. Take your battery and have it tested. Electronic testers will find a dead cell right off. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Joe7077
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2011 at 12:12pm
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thanks guys. i have a new jellybean style switch but it's only 4 post and the napa was 5 post and i'm not sure what to do with the extra wires. there are a couple stacked wires on my existing switch as it is and the 4 post switch i ordered didn't come with a wiring diagram so i'm a little worried about frying something if i get it cross wired. i'll get a new coil for sure, the resister set up looks really horked up anyway. a new wiring harness would be my last resort, it's only 5-6 wires i should be able to figure that out. i have 2 wiring diagrams, one from a ford and one from a massey, they don't line up quite right but i get the jist of a conversion. again i just want to be sure so i don't fry any parts i don't need to. i just got the 3-point hitch from oktractor put on this weekend when everything started getting funky with the wiring. awsome response time, i was expecting a few days or maybe something late tonight at best, cool. |
Posted By: Joe7077
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2011 at 12:21pm
| the battery is new but i'll check it. the starter i took to a rebuilder and had it completly rewound and restored. compared to how weak it was before, it really spins the engine up. i feel like i should put my foot out to keep it from flipping over on it's side. i'll check the power to the coil to see if i'm getting more than 9.5 volts. |
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2011 at 12:34pm
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Check that voltage before the resistor or you will definatly not get 9.5 volts. ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: Joe7077
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2011 at 7:36pm
| i made a sketch of the current wiring setup and i'll scan it at work tommorow morning. i already see that the 6v coil is hooked up pos to the distributor and the ammeter has seen better days. also i have 2 wires coming from the the alternator, one #8 to the ammeter and one to the acc part of the ignition switch. i still need to get a meter and check voltages tommorow when i get home from work. |
Posted By: Joe7077
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2011 at 7:50pm
| okay, i have a question about my ignition switches. the switch in the tractor now is a napa brand 4 post, ign-bat-st-acc. i have a jellybean style switch with 3 posts, sol-ign1-bat. if i switch to the jellybean style what do i attach the acc lead from the napa switch to? (if i match up ign to ign1, st to sol, and bat to bat) |
Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2011 at 8:09pm
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The only choice you would have with that switch is ignition.
Make sure all acc are turned off when starting engine. ------------- I Love Meatballs and Dumplings on Toast with Gravy and Rosemary and ??? {Open For Suggestions} |
Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2011 at 8:10pm
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If all the acc have a switch to turn them off and on then you could hook them to the battery terminal. ------------- I Love Meatballs and Dumplings on Toast with Gravy and Rosemary and ??? {Open For Suggestions} |
Posted By: Joe7077
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2011 at 8:46am
ok, i have a sketch of the existing wiring. other than the coil being backwards is there anything else hooked up wrong? (i'll be replacing the coil and resistor)
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Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2011 at 10:22pm
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the early D14(6 volt) had a 2 wire switch and a seperate push button for the starter.
Bob
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Posted By: Joe7077
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2011 at 10:16am
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the wiring is too far gone to go back that far with it. also the generator and regulator are gone. i'd love to restore it back to what it should be but i'm actually going to work this tractor and i'd be too worried about scratching it to use it if it was all fancy. going to napa today to get a new switch and 3 ohm internal resistor coil. maybe i can get that in tonight and try it, been too busy at work to get at it. |
Posted By: Don M SEIA
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2011 at 6:26pm
| What is serial #? |
Posted By: pineyjd
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2011 at 4:54am
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If you are using 6 v coil ?, a bypass push button can be added to go around rest. & give coil 12v while starting.
I have used this on my old 8N fords,gives more spark on starting in cold weather
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Posted By: Joe7077
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2011 at 12:56pm
| serial number is 4295-14 if i'm looking in the right spot. still haven't had a chance to work on it yet. |
Posted By: Joe7077
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2011 at 12:54pm
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brought it back to life last night. put in a new coil (3ohm, 12v) and ignition switch. took out the resister, old 6v coil and fried switch. now with all the new parts it starts when i just barely bump the starter, shocked the heck out of me when it fired up that fast. the old switch was a 4 post and i put in an old style 3 post switch. i put the lights from the old acc terminal to the bat terminal on the new switch and ran the white wire from the alternator from the acc terminal to the ign terminal. what does the white wire from the alternator do and will it work on the ign terminal of the new switch. (the red wire from the alternator goes to the ammeter) thanks for all the help and i hope the new switch lasts longer this time. also, what happens if the ammeter quits working, will it stop passing power through? |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2011 at 1:18pm
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If the ammeter fails like most do, it will still pass power, but wont read anything. You can burn them out, but it is more difficult, if you do that, then no they won't pass power. ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: Joe7077
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2011 at 2:07pm
| thanks. |