New to me Allis B
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=32498
Printed Date: 21 Aug 2025 at 3:20am
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Topic: New to me Allis B
Posted By: dad2many
Subject: New to me Allis B
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 8:59pm
| I just got my first Allis. I was told it is a 55 B. Good metal but needs paint. Was told it ran last fall. Pulled tank and drained, flushed. Cleaned carb and bowl and replaced plugs. Charged battery and can get to crank over. It will fire with starting fluid but wont stay running. What position does the throttle need to be in for starting? Also, does anyone have a electronic manual for this? I have found a few wires no longer in use trying to find out what can be removed or rewired. Also, What are the knobs on the ammeter box for? Thanks for any help. I look forward to learning from y'all. |
Replies:
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 9:09pm
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The knob on the left is the light and high/low charge switch. The other one is the ignition switch. Pretty simple wiring with no regulator. 1 wire to the cutout relay on the gen, another 1 to the field terminal from the light switch.
Throttle position is usually individual tractor dependent. My CA (same basic engine) starts easily at idle cold with the choke closed and then opened right away. Are you sure you got everything opened up in the carb? Vacuum leaks? ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 9:14pm
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First the serial number of the tractor is stamped next to the gear shift. You can find a serial number reference page on this site. With all the cleaning you did, is the fuel line from the sediment bowl to the carb clean? Take the drain plug out of the carb bowl and turn the gas on and see if you have a good flow to the carb. I would set the throttle about half way for starting. For a wiring diagram try Duey's page here. http://dueyschutter.freeservers.com/index.html - http://dueyschutter.freeservers.com/index.html So manu of these old tractors have been altered in the last 50 years, you would have to describe what kind of system you have for any better help. It could be 6volt pos ground as original or 12 volt neg ground with an alternator or anything in between. If there are 2 knobs, one was originally the mag kill switch or power switch for the coil depending on your system. The other one should be the light and charge switch. In all the way is low charge, out one notch is lights with full charge and out all the way is full charge, no lights. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 9:16pm
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By the way, welcome to the best tractor site on the web. By your handle I assume you got a few cards and or calls today. Happy fathers day. Charlie
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: dad2many
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 9:16pm
| i wasn't pleased with the carb cleaning as i would like to regasket and rebuild. Any place i can get the parts local? The choke butterfly looks a little degraded. Also want to replace the plug wires are there any automotive crossovers? |
Posted By: acwdwcman
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 9:16pm
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did you put a new gasket kit on the carb? is the gass on..(haha ive done that before).. you might have the sediment boul to tight.. the bowl up but not to were it leaks
also welcome to the site! you will find that there are alot of bright people on this site and dont ever be afraid to ask a stoopid question if you dont know ------------- wd with a freeman model 90 trip loader, wd45, 38 unstylled wc, b 10 garden tractor and 2-14 ac trip plow. grandpa has a 56 wd45. wd. allis chalmers snap coupler blade and 3 bottom snap coupler plow |
Posted By: acwdwcman
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 9:18pm
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you can order them.. from a link on this site. i dont know wich one atm
good luck ------------- wd with a freeman model 90 trip loader, wd45, 38 unstylled wc, b 10 garden tractor and 2-14 ac trip plow. grandpa has a 56 wd45. wd. allis chalmers snap coupler blade and 3 bottom snap coupler plow |
Posted By: dad2many
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 9:20pm
| I will loosen the bowl a little. The electrical is 6 volt. If it is positive ground, then that may be my problem. it has a magneto. Fuel line was cleaned. What position should the knobs be? in or out to start? A was getting sprak at the plug. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 9:21pm
If it is a 55 it will more than likely have a coil and distributor, if it happens to have a Magneto, don't use resistor plugs or wires. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
dad2many wrote:Posted By: Auntwayne
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 9:29pm
| NAPA always have what we need with out going to the "dealer" GET THE GOOD STUFF !!! |
Posted By: dad2many
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 9:33pm
| Serial # is B118756 so I guess that makes it a 52 |
Posted By: dad2many
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 9:35pm
| Serial # is B118756 so I guess that makes it a 52 Definetly has a magneto. Do I need to hook it up for a positive ground on the battery? |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 9:35pm
The only thing that happens if the bowl is too tight is you warp the casting so it won't seal. If the sediment bowl won't fill after cleaning and reassembly, it is most likely your carb bowl is full of gas making the float seat the needle. Drain the bowl or start the tractor and it will fill on it's own. acwdwcman, your PM box is full. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 10:17pm
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Tha mag doesn't care if it is positive or negative ground. Most old tractors with generators were positive ground. You will have to flash the genny after you change the battery terminals. If it sputters with starting fluid (don't use much of it) then you have a fuel problem. To start the tractor the knob on the right should be out, the light switch in. Bob
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Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2011 at 8:33am
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The magneto switch on my C is opposite, in is on and out is off. Just something to think about... but I have neg. ground, don't know if that matters.
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: Murph-NC
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2011 at 8:37am
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Welcome to the forum 'Dad2many'. What part of NC are you in? ------------- '41 C w/Woods L503 mower, #3 mower, 2-way plows for C |
Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2011 at 4:08pm
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OK, just let me clarify that if you have a magneto, DO NOT HOOK POWER FROM THE BATTERY TO IT AT ALL!
Only thing that should go to the mag is the kill switch wire, which should be going to ground on the tractor frame somewhere. No power is needed at all for a magneto. It makes it's own spark from the rotating magnetic field and is amplified by the internal coil in the mag.
Sounds like you may have a fuel problem, unless you are using resistor plugs and graphite wires. Use AC Delco plugs(just my preference.) and metal core wires. NAPA will have both. Can't remember the point gap setting right off, but .020 sounds right. Good luck. ------------- I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me! |
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2011 at 4:22pm
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Just a suggestion, but here is where I would start.
Order a carb kit from someone that knows what they are selling. Replace the gaskets on the sediment bowl. Replace the plugs and wires with the right parts. Stranded, copper core wires, not automotive.
Then you will have eleminated the most common trouble spots all in 1 shot. You will be much happier in the end.
JimD ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: dad2many
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2011 at 8:47pm
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Ok, here's an update. I picked up a carb rebuild kit and rebuilt the carb today. Throughly cleaned all parts and all ports as the little brass jets would not come out. Replaced the float brass and the needle screw. Got it up and running on the first shot of starting fluid. Idles fast and spits and sputters. Putted around the yard a little but can't seem to get the idle right. It wants to sputter and back fire a little when putting it under load (easing the clutch out). Is there any advance or retarding of the timing that can be done on a magneto? I have not yet replaced the plug wires as I haven't found any yet. Maybe thats the next step.
Any other suggestions? Thanks for all of your help so far.
By the way, I am in central NC (Randolph county)
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Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2011 at 9:28pm
| Firing order is 1243, if the wires are not on right it can backfire & sputter. Also, until you change to copper spark plug wires it will not run good. Bob |
Posted By: dad2many
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2011 at 6:21pm
| Plug wires fixed it :) when i pulled the old ones, 2 of them you couldnt see any wire coming out of the insulation to the connectors. Seems to be running great. Now to find attachments or convert to 3 point. Oh, and paint work to come this winter. |