Broken spark plug
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=32360
Printed Date: 26 Sep 2025 at 11:08pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Broken spark plug
Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Subject: Broken spark plug
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 5:24pm
Anybody have any ideas on removing a long reach 45XL spark plug broken off flush with the head on a WD45? Engine is stuck, but only for a short time and was inside all the time. Hope to get it freed up without removing the head.
Just bought it and got it home.
------------- Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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Replies:
Posted By: AC WD45
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 5:29pm
Drill it out, soak it in your favorite penetrating oil and back it out with an easy out
------------- German Shepherd dad 1957 Allis Chalmers WD45 #WD234847 1951 Allis Chalmers WD #WD88193
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Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 5:30pm
did it break off trying to tighten or loosen it, if when tightening it, you may have a chance, but if it broke when you were trying to get it out, that might be the reason the motor is stuck, rust in the cylinder, and it would be wise to take the head off.
------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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Posted By: AC WD45
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 5:30pm
not compleyely drill it out, just enough to get the easy out inside it
------------- German Shepherd dad 1957 Allis Chalmers WD45 #WD234847 1951 Allis Chalmers WD #WD88193
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Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 5:31pm
AC WD45 wrote:
Drill it out, soak it in your favorite penetrating oil and back it out with an easy out |
What about some of the debris getting into the cylinder?
------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 5:31pm
what is a WD-45 doing with a long reach plug?
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 5:37pm
Long reach plug along with drilling out porcelain? If all of the porcelain is out, you might be able to take a die grinder to it and cut most of the way through the shell then collapse it and dig it out.
------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: AC WD45
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 5:40pm
That is what a flexi magnet is for, or, if you have a shopvac with a narrow spout, push a length of rubber hose into it small enough to fit into the spark plug hole
------------- German Shepherd dad 1957 Allis Chalmers WD45 #WD234847 1951 Allis Chalmers WD #WD88193
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Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 5:43pm
I'm going to say this at risk of ridicule, but anytime an engine is stuck, there is a reason, at the very least it is a bit of rust or other corrosion in the rings. No engine will last very long if that debris isn't cleaned out prior to running the motor very long. I think it is best practice no matter how "stuck" a motor is, the only right fix it to at least pull the head and inspect, better yet is to remove the pistons, hone the walls, and clean the rings, and ring groves.
Just my $0.02!
Unless you just need it running to sell it, seems something like that is what always happens to me when I am buying anyhow?!?!? :-)
------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 5:43pm
You've never tried to drill porcelain out. That stuff is hard as flint...
------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: AC WD45
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 5:44pm
If the porcelain is out then it should be no problem to use an easy out.
------------- German Shepherd dad 1957 Allis Chalmers WD45 #WD234847 1951 Allis Chalmers WD #WD88193
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Posted By: norm[ind]
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 7:29pm
before you drill stick you r drill into some grease an most chips will stick to the drill
we do this installing a heli-coil works good not much too blow out
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Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 8:13pm
Ahhhh, Just pull the head, then you can drill till your hearts content. Aint no way in Gods green earth you can ever be sure you have all of the cylinder wall distroying fines out.
If you decide to try an (easy to break ina hole out) thingy you might want to pick up a spark plug thread repair kit. Aint no such thing as an easy out. It is the brand name of a myth tool.
If you take the head off you might be able to grip the inside of the plug and break it loose then grind the boggerd up threads off and turn it out with a screw driver or something.
I have used the long plugs but grind the threads off that would show on the inside of the head.
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Posted By: Gordy
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 8:45pm
Had the same thing happen couple months ago. Used acetylene with welding tip and heated broken plug end to almost red let cool some and used screw extractor came out no problem.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 9:32pm
AC WD45 wrote:
Drill it out, soak it in your favorite penetrating oil and back it out with an easy out |
A long reach plug would have exposed threads on the inside. If it broke trying to back the crusty threads out, there is no way an easy out will do anything but waste time and get broken. Uncle Theo, is there any way of welding a nut to it? I watched an old blacksmith reach through a 3/8 nut and start welding where the nut met the broken bolt. I think he had a lot of practice. I would have a hard time reaching through a 3/4 nut without arching on the sides.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Roddo
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2011 at 10:30pm
CTuckerNWIL wrote:
AC WD45 wrote:
Drill it out, soak it in your favorite penetrating oil and back it out with an easy out |
A long reach plug would have exposed threads on the inside. If it broke trying to back the crusty threads out, there is no way an easy out will do anything but waste time and get broken. Uncle Theo, is there any way of welding a nut to it? I watched an old blacksmith reach through a 3/8 nut and start welding where the nut met the broken bolt. I think he had a lot of practice. I would have a hard time reaching through a 3/4 nut without arching on the sides.
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Also in addition to what Charlie said, a body style washer works good here too. You dont have to weld deep inside the washer to get a good burn like you do on a nut. Then weld a nut smaller than the washer, to the washer, and you have a good surface again.
I'm also of the "engines dont sieze for lack of anything better to do" camp . There is a reason.
I hate easy outs. I'd rather drill the damn porcelain.....
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2011 at 6:54am
Personally, I agree with Dick. Pull the head and see what ya got underneath. A head gasket isn't that expensive. While the head is off, you can check the condition of the all the valves, inspect the cylinder walls, see which cylinder is the stuck one, or problem child, and evaluate the whole situation better. Then, extract your spark plug by warming up the area around it with a rosebud, and gently crank it out. Now you've got a good idea what you're up against, or what you have, all the way around! Unstick the engine, run a spark plug tap in all the holes, a dash of anti-seize, on the new plugs, put it back together, fire it up! I've learned over the years, when you try to cut corners, it only comes back and bites ya in the ....
mailto:Steve@B&B - Steve@B&B
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Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2011 at 10:14pm
all the porcelan (sp) came out with the rest of the plug. I was trying to remove the plugs to soak the cylinder with Kroil to see if it would come loose easily. This engine was overhauled at some time and the head replaced apparently. It needs a long reach plug as there are a lot of threads there, but the threads must still hang into the combustion chamber some. I'll try the easy out, then pull the head. Thanks for all the tips.
------------- Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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Posted By: AC WD45
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2011 at 10:27pm
You've never tried to drill porcelain out. That stuff is hard as flint... |
Actually, as a matter of fact, I have, when one of the mexican fellers broke a spark plug off on a John Deere 60 we use for brush hogging at work. Used a new hardend carbide tip bit and a variable speed hammer drill. worked pretty well.
------------- German Shepherd dad 1957 Allis Chalmers WD45 #WD234847 1951 Allis Chalmers WD #WD88193
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Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2011 at 6:39am
Heat it up and use wax to melt down threads of old plug and head to loosen any rust or crud on plug. they try your bolt extractor
Another area where a left handed drill bit works good also
------------- Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel.
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Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2011 at 7:13am
I had a wc that was " just a little stuck " I could turn it a little each way by hand, took the head off and could hardly believe the mess! Im in the take er off camp.
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Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2011 at 9:07am
We broke a spark plug off in a D-17 once. An old Allis Chalmers mechanic told us to heat the plug and cool it a couple of times. Then use a square tapered easy out to remove the plug. It worked like a champ. (Also used Kroil) A vacuum and a piece of old copper line was used to suck out anything in the combustion chamber. After you get the plug out and the threads cleaned up, put anti-seize on the spark plug threads.
PS.. The wax method Coke mentioned works very well.
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