Plowing thick sod
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Topic: Plowing thick sod
Posted By: Roddo
Subject: Plowing thick sod
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 8:53pm
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I'm trying to plow some old fallow land that I got to rent for free. The sod is so thick it rolls back into the furrow. I cant get a first pass off at all. I leveled the plow out and that didnt help to get me going for a first pass. The plow is doing an awesome job, and sometimes goes for a while perfectly. Then the slice will start to roll back in and its like a domino effect. It pulls 15 feet of plowed ground back in! I got a set of moldboard extensions off my parts plow. Will these help? If so how to I adjust them to keep that damn sod where it belongs. I sprayed it with roundup 4 days before I started, now I just need to get it worked! |
Replies:
Posted By: AC WD45
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 9:17pm
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I think the correct way to do this would be a tandem offset disk. At least for the first time. A PTO powered tiller would do the trick as well. ------------- German Shepherd dad 1957 Allis Chalmers WD45 #WD234847 1951 Allis Chalmers WD #WD88193 |
Posted By: Roddo
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 9:21pm
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My only option is a plow. I don't own any equipment other than a 10 ft disk and my plow. Also I cant hook a tiller to the WD45. Thanks though. A tiller would be a good solution. |
Posted By: Tedin NE-OH
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 9:22pm
| Try going faster so it flips the sod. |
Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 9:25pm
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I'd try the extensions. I assume you have coulters on the plow? Also try plowing not quite as deep. You can always plow it deeper next year. ------------- ALLIS EXPRESS! This year: |
Posted By: Dipstick In
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 9:30pm
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Put your extensions on and run about 8 inches deep, if you have enough horse try running a little bit faster. I do not favor using a disk before plowing sod because sometimes it will create more problems. After plowing try to disk the same direction that you plowed to sorta push the furrow slice over and start the chopping process. Done correctly with easy to plow sod will leave you with a beautiful job. Flip side is; even for us "old timer" plowmen, sod can really try out last Sundays lessons!!!! ------------- You don't really have to be smart if you know who is! |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 9:36pm
| Can you post a picture from behind the plow showing the furrow and plow. How deep are you plowing. I have seen a team of horses pulling a plow in sod doing a very clean job. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 9:38pm
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I had the same trouble a couple weks ago when I tied to plow a garden patch in old CRP ground. I was plowing up hill and just drove over the flipped back chunk on the second pass. I wonder if a set of cover boards would help?? I took mine off years ago and hung them in the shed.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: AC WD45
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 9:38pm
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Now that I see you say you have extensions, yes, use them, alo, if you know how to use the traction booster, this helps! I like 3rd gear 3/4-full throttle in corn stubble, but not sure about sod. ------------- German Shepherd dad 1957 Allis Chalmers WD45 #WD234847 1951 Allis Chalmers WD #WD88193 |
Posted By: Roddo
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 10:12pm
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Thanks for the tips. Ive been plowing about 6-7" deep. I can plow in 3rd and speed seems to make no difference at all. Ill bolt on the cover boards tomorrow and hope for the best. |
Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 10:25pm
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`If it's old fallow ground, you don't really need to plow very deep. Good luck with the cover boards.
------------- Mark B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel, GTH-L Simplicity Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not. |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 10:41pm
| the extensions, and speed up sum. gotta git it to rolling. |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 11:11pm
| What plow are you using. I've experienced similar results with plows on smaller tractors both 1 and 2 bottom 12". Just recently got a 3 bottom 16" Oliver trailer plow and I've never done a nicer cleaner job before. No more spots with weeds or grass still showing. Rolls over much nicer. Moral here is maybe its just the plow. High speed Radex bottoms do a nice job. |
Posted By: mnhorseman
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 5:15am
| i can remember tieing number 9 wire to the landsides about 10 to 15 foot long trailing the plow in each furrow to get sod to stay over it was a old irish man trick (smiles) this was back in the 60,s so memory is a little faint |
Posted By: Roddo
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 6:30am
| Its my old 3 bottom #73 snap coupler plow. I had to take the 3rd off because the WD45 won't pull it. My traction booster doesn't seem to want to co operate and I don't have time to mess with it. |
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 7:25am
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When I was a kid a man I knew told me that when he was a kid he had a job of walking on the freshly turned sod, right behind the plow, to keep it from flipping back over. He said that once in a while he would stumble and fall down, and the sod would flip back over burying his feet. Dusty ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 8:18am
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Ability to flip sod is probably one of the differences of some plow bottoms, particularly those with longer moldboards. For me speed helped, 5 mph was not too fast but that takes real hp. Gerald J. |
Posted By: junkman
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 8:23am
| I always thought it would be nice to have a sod plow for just those occasions when I heed on for I have had the same problem before. My plow had a extra piece welded on top to give it a little extra role but cut them off for they hindered more then they helped. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 8:29am
| We used number 9 wire to fold the tall grass/weeds over so they would cover. Quit using the wire when we put Yetter colters on the plows. The Yetter colters rolled the first two to three inches over ahead of the mold boards which caused the tall stuff to tuck under. Are the land sides in good shape? If the (rear) land side in bad shape it can let the rear of the plow to not hold the mold board over far enough to do its job of rolling the furrow over. That is what keeps the plow straight. |
Posted By: KC-WD45
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 8:31am
| I just turned over 7 acres this spring that was a brome field for the last 35 years or so. I used my 45 with a 53 3-16 set about four inches deep then hit it with a 10' tandem offset disk. I didn't have any problems getting it to turn over but the field had been cut very short and baled last fall. I plowed another one last fall that was about 3' tall and I went about 8" deep, that was a mess, same type of problem you are having. |
Posted By: se iowa picker
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 12:31pm
| Its all in the moldboards.Get them as long as you can and curve down as much as you can dont give the sod a chance to stand on edge got to get it to break center. Speed will help as long as it doesnt stand it on edge.If I read it right one time AC used high speed moldboards that were designed to pulverize the soil rather than cleanly roll it over. I dont know if thats right or not bout thought I had read that in a book. But thats what we did with our plows over the years was run cover boards and extensions. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 1:02pm
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The 392 bottoms on my 2000 do a very good job of pulverization when pulled at 5.5 mph. The ground looks like its going straight down when I look back and unless its too wet it leaves a smooth field without ridges and gulleys. It didn't do that at 3.3 mph that my 4020 could pull 4x18s in my soil. 3x18s does much better and I covered more ground at 5.5 than at 3.3 mph. Gerald J. |
Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 4:45pm
| i READ WITH INTREST M y dad bought a D/14 and had a oliver pull type plow he had used with the WC and it worked good . Bought lift plow for the 14 i am A/ C man but the ac plow in sod just gives it a twist ,oliver pickes it up and lets iit break over. He solved problem by getting two 16 in olivers and mounted on a/c frame . Ansner to problem go borrow an oliver. |
Posted By: Roddo
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 7:11pm
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I had another go at it. Same results. The cover boards helped but its just pure roots as far down as the plow goes. Even with the back bottom removed this stuff plows HARD. I might have to disk the snot out of the mess I made and hope to use that as a softer starting point. If I could make one pass without the damn furrow rolling back in I'd be golden! |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 8:31pm
When you removed the #3 or back bottom did you replace the # two bottom with it?
If you didn't move it up there the you need to switch them or the long land-side off the #3 bottom to the # 2 bottom. Without the long land-side on there then the plow can move over and might be your trouble.
Don ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Roddo wrote:Posted By: Roddo
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 9:18pm
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The rear bottom and 2nd bottom have the same land side length. This is what it looks like. Before I beat the hell out of it in this sod....  |
Posted By: AaronH
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 10:12pm
| I just went through some of this myself. For most of the old pasture , I burnt it with roundup and no till. But I bought a 210 this spring so i had to use it. I have a 4-18 2000 mono frame plow pulling behind the 210. Im pretty sure they are 387 bottoms on it and this plow will turn over anything you have. Same situation, 30 years worth of pasture. High clearance, alfalfa rotation, corn stalks, you name it. You cant tell where one round starts and the next ends. does a nice job. ONCE you get it set up to the tractor. Where were we... oh ya... Speed, depth, .. ya. But im a believer in the right bottoms on the plow. will make all the difference.. Check this out. He posts on here from WI also. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqtxfcTyGrg |
Posted By: ky wonder
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 10:17pm
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i just came in from breaking 5 acres of sod that had not been turned in over twenty years, the fescue was waist high so i put the bush hog on monday and cut it close to the ground, and let the residue dry out so this afternoon i started by plowing a land around the food plot site, then i burnt off the dry grass , this left me with a good 6" inch grass on a 4' thick root system, the old oliver with a oliver 3x14s plow did a great job
i plowed as deep as the plow would go and it was at least 8-10 inches deep, i plowed at about 5mph and when i had to throw the cut up grade i put it in a faster gear and it flip it upside down, but at the slower speed it would try to stand it up.
so tomorrow i will put the disk on and disk it at least twice, with a heavy drag, and then i am going to plant some late corn for my deere popuation
i know this is a orange forum but it is hard to beat a oliver plow! ------------- i like old tractors of all colors |
Posted By: Teddy (punchie)
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 4:14am
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No question about it Oliver radex bottoms are the best. Now to help you. I asked about a 4 bottom and a d19 a few weeks ago. I got them to work good to Okay, still not doing a good job on stony ground in sod. I just plowed this spring ground that had trees (small), blackberries, all types of weeds and grass, and wild roses. Brush hogged down first. Plowed about 5 acres of this stuff. Take hatchet to cut the roots out, that plug the moldboard. Hears what I had SC 80 framed plows with 375 moldboards, moldboard extensions, and what I'll call cover boards and coulters. How long are your shares?? Had to cut the oliver shares down to make it work right. The sod has to have the right hinge to turn over on. How level is your ground? I would think any plow should turn over sod on level ground. How clean are the moldboards, do they need scoured? Your picture: Can you set the coulters a little lower? Maybe get them closer to the shin, just a question here, see if it may help. Do you have two links that adjust? If you have only one you need to switch them. You need to adjust the farrow side. ------------- Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc. |
Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 5:50am
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Have you considered custom notill for those old sod fields for the first year. That would loosen up the ground.
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Posted By: Roddo
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 6:36am
| The ground is nearly flat and level. The bottoms are scoured up nice I just plowed 5 acres of field and it worked great. I can try moving the coulters I'm open to trying anything at this point. Both lift links can be adjusted. |
Posted By: Teddy (punchie)
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 7:39am
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If you make these changes mark where it was to start. These are somethings I would try. Just recalling what remember reading and a few ideas I got from members here. SO here are a few ideas. Next question is how worn are your points on your shares. Not sure but make sure not over beamed, turn the beam crank as to make it shorter needs a few turns to make one inch (four bottoms where about 5-7 turns to one inch). This would bring the points down and the make the back of the moldboards higher, which should make it turn over at a higher angle. Plow will enter faster so watch the depth. Makes the plow nose in too hard if you go too much. Maybe 5 turns see if it helps. Next I would Try Adjusting the Links. First check to that the L.H. link is at around 15 1/2 inch and the R.H. link about 14 inches (furrow side). Make these changes only about 5 total turns and try, so if you turn one side 3 and one side 2 try it, then make more changes. This will change the pitch of the plow your trying to pitch it to the right (furrow side) just a little, that in turn should make it throw the furrow more. If you make these changes mark where it was to start. Now after a pass if it works try to reset the plows, now that you have a tire furrow. I have ask allot of people over the years and they say AC plows are all good plows. So I think you should be able to set them. Last if still not plowing the shares need replace, or need 12" on 14" , or 14" on 16" I only have manuals here for the 70 - 80 series plow, they were in the truck. I'll try to look at the 50-60 series later today see if I can come up with anything else to try. As they told me they can be set don't give up. I ended up plowing with full duals on a d19 and doing a good job of it. Some of it was a hill of 20-25 % yes that is 25' of rise in 100' of travel on a rolling hill, yes throwing it up hill. Be Safe !! ------------- Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc. |
Posted By: MBWisc
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 7:49am
| What do you plant to plant in the field once it is tiled? Plowing sod in the spring may not result in enough decay to allow good seed to soil contact. Also, plowing mature sod without burning, chopping or discing the trash makes the above situation and plowing job worse. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 8:13am
As I suspected your biggest problem is the rear land side. It takes a long land side to hold the rear of the plow from pushing away from the turning sod. When removing the third bottom from a three bottom plow it is very important that you switch the center bottom with the one you take off to keep the long land side and its hardware. Allis was not just trying to sell steel when they designed the plow with this very long land side.
 |
Posted By: ranger42
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 8:44am
| I just got into about 4 acres of ground that had been pasture for at least 40 years....anyway got out the old Oliver 3-14's that hadn't been used in 10 years hooked it on the 170. This plow is rusty and wore out!, but still managed to flip the sod without cover boards. As some have mentioned, the plow has to sit at least level when tractor is in furrow..I even turned down the right side arm down more than usual to get more throwing action. Hit it with a disk in the afternoon and looked great. |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 10:07am
Thanks Dick, Thats what I was thinking too, I just didn't say it right.
Don ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 10:38am
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I agree with the coulter adjustment. Looks like the coulter disks are worn a lot and that may make it hard to close the gap between the coulter and the plow shin. The coulter cut gives a better surface for the left side of the shin and most of the landside to push against and the snap coupler needs that landside function to plow straight. As for plow shares, AC offered an assortment for every bottom including wide cut and narrow cut, plain point and deep suck point, and in chilled iron, or solid steel with a hardened surface, or plain steel which was better for rocky soil. A full cut would be a lot like a 16" share on a 14" bottom and a narrow cut would be trimmed even with the trailing edge of the moldboard. A deep suck point might be longer up front and for sure would be bent down. They offered these different shares and different bottoms for different soil conditions though I doubt any farmer changed from the first bottom they bought with the plow, it was possible and plow bottoms were sold separatedly from plows. The customer picked out a plow frame and then the bottoms, likely had to order and wait for them. It would be interesting to see plow bottom sales brochures or catalog sheets with details on which bottoms and which shares were appropriate for soils in difference places and different types, e.g. prairie, or creek bottom, breaking sod (and there was a bottom for breaking prairie without a number), turning under lush corn stalks, and the like. Gerald J. |
Posted By: dcso
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 11:05am
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weld or bolt some old leaf springs to the plow. same thing happend to me wth a vac case 2btm
ted
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 12:13pm
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Curved leaf springs to extend the moldboard, straight leaf springs to extend the land side? Gerald J. |
Posted By: Teddy (punchie)
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 2:57pm
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MBWisc I plant whatever. You have to disk it and disk , did I say disk it. Any way we plant right into the ground that way, have to feed it good, also doesn't hurt to lime. Plant right into a good seed bed. You are right in a way if you plow, disk twice and plant your asking for trouble , have to work the ground to make a good seed bed.
------------- Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc. |
Posted By: Roddo
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 3:30pm
| Well it rained here this morning so I wont be able to try again until tomorrow. I hope I can make something happen. I'd like to stick some corn in. Finances and equipment wont let me plant beans this year.... |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 3:54pm
Even John Deere knew that the rear most bottoms had to have a long land side to roll the furrow over. On this old plow the tail wheel also acts as an extention of the land side. It will be hard to plow corn stocks or bean stubbles without a long rear land side and do a good job of rolling the furrow over. The pressure of the dirt pushing on the mold board will push the back of the plow away from its job of turning dirt over.
 |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 4:13pm
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A sturdy 3 point hitch puts much of the side thrust load on the hitch, but the snap hitch and the pin and clevis hitch of the pulled plow doesn't put that on the tractor, so needs that trailing wheel or a long landside. Gerald J. |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 5:26pm
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One thing my Allis 2 bottom simply cannot do is turn corn stubble. It will plug in the first 20'. Just got the Oliver so haven't tried it there yet. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 6:27pm
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Just wondering what brands of three point plows didn't have long land sides on the back bottom?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Massey-Ferguson-43-Spring-Trip-Plow-2-Bottom-/280594538941?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4154bce1bd - http://cgi.ebay.com/Massey-Ferguson-43-Spring-Trip-Plow-2-Bottom-/280594538941?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4154bce1bd
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 7:11pm
I bet it would do fine if you had 45 bushel corn like there was when the plow was built. With todays 200 bu corn there is so much more fodder especially with the 9 and 10 foot tall kinds of corn around here. You almost have to bale some of it off to plow. your plow would probably work better if you chopped the stalks and then disced them in the fall and wait till spring to plow them under. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Dave (Mid-MI)
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 7:54pm
| I can't remember which one, but one of my Allis plow manuals addressed not being to roll the furrow over when plowing alfalfa. The recommendation was to trim the rear of the share so that it didn't cut the full width of the plow bottom. The manual said that this would anchor the slice and help the plow bottom to roll it over. Seems like this might also apply to sod. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 7:57pm
| I always run over the stocks with a disc set light or used a rotary cutter to shred them up. Hard to plow heavy corn stocks down without plugging some if they are left as they were came thru the picker/sheller head. Disc to deep and the colters will push some of the corn stocks down in the loose dirt and still plug up. |
Posted By: Auntwayne
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 8:51pm
| Very interesting posts, Charlie and Dick !!! |
Posted By: Dipstick In
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 9:25pm
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Something that may help a little is to set the coulters about one half to three quarters of an inch to the left of the shin and where they can cut as deep as you can go without plugging them. This will help break the furrow slice loose a bit better and will maybe help it to start the roll better. Often times in old sod the best you can do is to stand the furrow slice on edge. By the time you get done you may not have much hair or patience left, but will be able to say "I did it!" Next year it will plow much better! ------------- You don't really have to be smart if you know who is! |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 11:42pm
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I have a Case (possibly) MTA three point 2x16 without a long landside. My AC 2000 monobeam plow 4x 18 doesn't have long landsides but it does have a trailing wheel in the furrow. It uses the lower arms of the CAT 2 hitch at the tractor end but has a pivot so the twist from the rear bottoms isn't resisted by the hitch. In my experience, a three point fully mounted plow is worst about plugging because there isn't much space front to back between bottoms. The semi mounted plow like the AC monobeam with a cylinder lifting the rear of the plow frame on the furrow wheel can be longer and with much more room between gangs its a lot harder to plug, though I have, but far less often than I've plugged the 3 point Case 2 x 16 MTA. The best plows for corn stalks are the CIH 520 and 720 that have a large space between the bottoms and long shanks so the plow frame is high off the ground for even better corn stalk clearance. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 11:42pm
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Most plow books call for the coulter a half inch to the left of the shin. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Teddy (punchie)
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2011 at 6:15am
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Not sure which radex we have (thinking 2 bottom, 516 roster lift) but they don't plow corn stalks very well. Better be cut down to a short size. AC 80 series doesn't like blackberries. I'm going to try a wire or chain later this year, still have about 5-7 more acres to reclaim as I call it. I'll have to get some pics. Hatchet is the best tool to use to get the berries and roots out.
------------- Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc. |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2011 at 10:38am
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We spent a bunch of time one day playing with coulter adjustments and every conceivable plow adjustment and then gave up on corn stalks. I should have tried discing them first. However the fodder was so thick I doubt it would have made a difference. Only guy who did any good was a Farmall Cub single bottom. Even the Allis B with one bottom was plugging. |
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2011 at 6:36pm
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wkpoor, you should try a G. A few years I went to an antique tractor plow day, any make or model. I took my G. We were plowing corn stubble. Every one but me was plugging up. I did plug once when I tried to plow threw a pile of stalks that someone dumped out of a plugged mounted plow. I lifted my plow, drove forward a little ways backed up a little, kicked out a few remaining stalks, backed back to where I lifted out, dropped the plow, and and plowed right threw the pile I left. That was the only time I plugged up. What a way to plow. the plow is right there at your feet, no turning around to watch the plow. The only problem is you are only turning 12" at a time. Dusty ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: ky wonder
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2011 at 8:58pm
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modern corn is the reason for high clearance plows ------------- i like old tractors of all colors |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2011 at 9:03pm
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2011 at 11:54pm
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Actually in some areas farmers do plow to dry out swamps and warm up cold ground faster. There are new plows still being made. And even no tillers occasionally plow the edge of a field to kill off weeds and encroaching forest. Also quite likely standard prepartion for growing root crops like beets and potatoes, along with parsnips and turnips and truck garden crops rotating tomatoes with sweet corn. Gerald J. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2011 at 5:39am
"Modern" corn probably actually started back in the first part of the 20th century with hybrids. As yield increased so did the amount of stalk. Some plows were changed to accommodate the increase in fodder, some had extra clearance to begin with. The 50 series Allis plow doesn't handle stalks from 200 bu/acre corn well at all but that wasn't a problem in the 50's when they were made. Newer series seem to work somewhat better in heavier stalks but Allis hasn't updated a plow in the last 30 years. I also know farmers that moldboard plow to this day. A lot of "bottom ground" around here is plowed in the fall. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Teddy (punchie)
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2011 at 5:54am
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Have you watch the price of plows. 8-10 years ago scrap price. 2-3 bottoms where worth more then 4-5 6, etc bottoms. I seen a number of 5 -6 bottoms that looked good go for scrap, or cut by people I known for scrap. This spring I seen a few 5-6 bottoms sell in good shape for in the 2000 - 4000 range. I like turning the soil nothing better then plowing the right way and mixing up the soil if you do it right like a huge composting pile after awhile. Not that every place should be plow and left open. One's using covering crops, plowing green crop, stovers (sp) are a couple of good reasons. I seen a number of fields in my area that are no tilled and they are a mess do to wash. I try to plow up hill and make like little dams to catch the run off, I have never had a field wash with a huge ditch do to normal run off. In fact I check my fields for any wash I don't like to see it. ------------- Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc. |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2011 at 10:41am
| Most farmers around here don't want anything to do with plowing. They say its cost prohibitive and ruins no till ground. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2011 at 12:50pm
| After 15 years of no till and set aside on my farm the yealds were dropping. I had the soil checked and it only needed a little extra lime. However the soil was compacted and they told me it would need to be plowed for at least two years. Not many people were subsoiling around here. Now around here it seems that is the answer to compaction is to subsoil in the fall and no till in the spring. I like to plow just because I like to plow. I liked it 60 years ago when Dad started me out plowing and I never lost the (like) |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2011 at 8:57pm
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Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2011 at 9:11pm
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The long rear landslide will help considerably, another trick is to use a short share that doesn't cut all the way, leaving a hinge of sort to help turn the ground over. Using a 14" share on a 16" plow keeps the ground from sliding to the right at the bottom of the furrow, so it turns over better. ------------- Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives. |