sea foam
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31266
Printed Date: 10 Mar 2025 at 2:15am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: sea foam
Posted By: m.jerry
Subject: sea foam
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 4:39pm
| i was just wounding if anyone uses sea foam for anything and does it work Jerry |
Replies:
Posted By: FHOliver
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 4:47pm
| Its the best as far as im concerned. will usually cure up a bad tank of gas, its also better for storage than sta-bil. I use a can every couple months in each car. I use it in all the small engines and the outboard and have virtually no gas issues. 6.50 can at farm and fleet or menards. too high at any auto parts store . good luck |
Posted By: Burgie
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 4:48pm
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Good stuff. Put in the oil or gas. ------------- "Burgie" |
Posted By: dave63
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 4:51pm
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Yup, I used to have to clean carbs after the tractors set for long periods of time. Sea foam works great i don't have to do anything to them but i always ran gas that did not have ethanal. now that i can't get ethanal free gas i try to run them dry before i store them. I still use sea foam.
The vertic is not in yet on treating ethanal blends with sea foam. ------------- The universal answer to all questions is yes, how much do you want to spend? |
Posted By: junkman
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 4:57pm
| On the issue of ethanol gas, when I buy gas for my two cycle needs I by premium for we have three gas stations in my town that sell premium without alcohol. so those wanting gas without it might check it out. |
Posted By: MilesGray (CO/KS)
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 5:11pm
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I have put sea foam in my F-150 and have not had any trouble. Can't get anything that doesn't have ethanol in it where I am in Kansas. Normally, I keep the tanks topped off on my tractors. ------------- Miles Gray (CO/KS) 5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy! |
Posted By: bluebanshee
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 5:27pm
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When we first got our wd45 and tried to diagnose its erradict behavior we tried sea foam. Engine ended up having very pitted valve seats on inner 2 cylinders. When we tore the engine down for a complete rebuild the pistons were very clean. I highly doubt the internals would have been that clean if we did not try seafoam. A local used car dealer uses it frequently too, if it didn't work for them, they wouldn't use it as they can be tight with money. |
Posted By: R.W
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 5:30pm
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Yup works great! ------------- In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D |
Posted By: dannyraddatz
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 5:46pm
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Been using it for 8 years, started when I worked at the airport, every unit we owned used it in field maintence. They always started when you needed them too. Convinced my boss at the village to start using it about a month ago. Hope it works for you as it has for me. ------------- Danny Raddatz |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 6:31pm
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Interesting, guys not liking alcohol in gasoline but like Sea Foam. It's main ingredient is Isopropyl Alcohol... ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: REEDE
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 7:41pm
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I have had real good luck with sea foam , been using it for 15 years now. Tune up in a can. |
Posted By: se iowa picker
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 9:28pm
| I buy it by the case when I have the chance cause it works so well. I got turned on to it when I worked for a small engine repair shop. We would have a lawn mower running rough and little of that magic in a can next thing you knew that motor had smoothed right out. Best you can buy in my book. |
Posted By: m.jerry
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 9:32pm
| thanks all for the reply better get some Jerry |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 9:40pm
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Some additives will, under the right conditions, help break up crud from carbeurators, clear jets, float valves, and residue build up around air bleeds. I have a can of SeaFoam, as well as a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil, and some Sta-Bil. Generally, I find that if I run the gas out of a fuel system before putting the machine in storage, I don't need any additive to clean anything out, but when faced with a pesky situation (say, one float bowl sticking on the motorcycle), one of the additives will frequently clear it... but many times, I just take it out and run it... pulling fresh fuel through oftentimes does just as well. The ONE thing that I've always made habit to do... is fill every tank to the top with fuel refined AFTER the fall changeover in formulations. Summer formulations are tailored to reduce evaporative emmissions, and don't store as well, for as long as winter formulation. I also try to avoid putting ethanol blend in a fuel tank that will be in long-term storage, as the ethanol WILL settle out and stratify, it will absorb moisture, and when you go to start the engine, the very first fuel going in, will be water... followed by water and ethanol, then ethanol, then yukky gasoline. I bite the bullet, and drain the (full) tank out into a recovery tank (easy to separate out the water, then circulated it into my 300gal overhead tank so that the ethanol isn't concentrated) and refill with new gas before firing it up. Also, by keeping the tank full, there's very little airspace within which condensation can occur and fall into the fuel. In my opinion, the #1 BIGGEST argument against ethanol blending, is that ethanol blend fuels, when left sitting in ANY tank for extended periods of time, WILL settle, and you'll have layers of water, saturated ethanol, straight ethanol, ethanol gasoline, and topped with old gasoline. When you run that engine on saturated ethanol or straight ethanol, LOTS of nasty things happen which manufacturers deny. Anyone who claims that this DOESN'T happen can easily be disproven by taking a glass flask full of ethanol blend, capping it with a vented lid (just like a fuel tank) and leaving it sit on a shelf in a barn for 6 months. At the end of the test, you'll see layers.... take a sample bulb and withdraw a sample from each layer and give it a lab test. |
Posted By: bluebanshee
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 9:41pm
Its MSDS says IPA is 10-20%. Pale oil and Naptha constitute the majority of it. |
Brian Jasper co. Ia wrote:Posted By: MilesGray (CO/KS)
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 9:47pm
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Isopropyl Alcohol is made from wood/grain, Ethanol is made from Corn and is heavily subsidized by the Government. Forgive me, I know this is a topic for a different forum, but he asked... :-) ------------- Miles Gray (CO/KS) 5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy! |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 9:49pm
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I ran some through the Honda 4 tracs as it wouldn't idle. After several hours of use, the idle circuit seems to be working fine. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 25 May 2011 at 7:15am
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I top off the tanks in the fall and add a can. I also use it it the ATV's. Anything that's not ran on a regular basis. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 25 May 2011 at 10:42am
Yeah, that is funny. If you are using E10, you don't need anything else to keep your fuel system clean. The most important thing for engines that aren't used on a regular basis is to fill the fuel tank after each use before parking it. ------------- Mark B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel, GTH-L Simplicity Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not. |
Posted By: Rawleigh
Date Posted: 25 May 2011 at 11:56am
| Suck Seafoam into the fuel line on a carb that isn't running right, shut it down with the Seafoam in it and let it sit. A lot of times that will cure the problem. |
Posted By: Bill_MN
Date Posted: 25 May 2011 at 6:21pm
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Every year I take a can and slowly dump it into the intake hose on my WD until it dies then let it sit for about 10 minutes. Boy howdy when you start that thing back up you'd think they was choosin a new pope theres so much white smoke...that's how you know it did the job.
------------- 1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow |
Posted By: ICTRCTR
Date Posted: 25 May 2011 at 9:16pm
| Try the SEA FOAM pennentrant works darn good as most of their products do. It has capillary action to it, about all I use any more. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 25 May 2011 at 10:22pm
------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: JR Maley
Date Posted: 26 May 2011 at 8:41am
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I have always been skeptical about SeaFoam and Marvels Snake Oil, but with all the equipment storage issues I've had in recent years associated the bullshi* vodka-gas blend they sell now I've started to try anything. I started adding stabil, the enzyme ethanol gimmick, and marvels snake oil to every 5 gallons I bought. Eventually I accepted the reality that although all that stuff is good for treating other issues, it will not get rid of the ethanol, and the ethanol is going to attract water regardless. I still add the stuff to clean the fuel passages, combustion chamber, lubricate, and prevent corrosion, but I gave up on buying regular gas. Now I only will run AVGAS or Cam II 110 octane leaded race fuel in my equipment. There is no advantage to having the high octane, I only buy it for the lack of ethanol. I do not have convenient access to AVGAS so I buy the Cam II which cost 50% more than regular. I figure the extra cost is worth not having water rust through a 78 year old A-C B gas tank, or having to buy carb rebuild kits for every piece of equipment every spring, or having to worry the following: "am I done using that for the year or not?" "should I drain the tank?" "I don't have any container to drain it into, should I just let it run out of gas?" "but the tank is full, what a waste!" "with no load in it its gonna take a week for this thing to run itself out of gas!" The last benefit is really qualitative and not scientific. IT SMELLS GREAT! My push mower, tractors, chainsaws, log splitter, generator all smell like NASCARs.
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 26 May 2011 at 11:12am
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A big reason against using Sea Foam in a diesel is the alcohol. Alcohol emulsifies (absorbs water and runs it through the engine) bad for injection system parts. You want a de emulsifier, something that causes the water to settle out in the water trap so you can drain it off. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: realolman
Date Posted: 26 May 2011 at 2:57pm
| I've never heard of sea foam, and I've never had any fuel issues either. |
Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 26 May 2011 at 3:46pm
| When I worked as a mechanic in a shop, we had a device that dripped Sea Foam into a glass vessel, kind of like an IV drip with a tube at the bottom. We would connect the line to a vacuum inlet on the intake manifold and drip it into the intake manifold while the engine is running. It cleans out the intake system and it allows the engine to run a lot smoother. |