200 inj pump re install
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31227
Printed Date: 09 Mar 2025 at 10:17pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 200 inj pump re install
Posted By: AaronH
Subject: 200 inj pump re install
Date Posted: 23 May 2011 at 7:29pm
|
Okay. I pulled the pump and injectors, had them gone through. pretty straight forward getting them off, now... I just figured the drive shaft for the pump came off with it somehow. It doesn't, and its still on the tractor. Do I really have to pull the cover off the front and remove the shaft from the gear, put the shaft in the pump and put the pump on, then re install the gear? OR... can I get it done successfully by just carefully installing the umbrella seals and slide the pump over the shaft? Anything I should consider while putting the injectors back in? Thanks.
|
Replies:
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 23 May 2011 at 9:29pm
your pump shop wasn't very helpful! Leaving the shaft on engine is simplest way to do it, replace the cup seals, and oil them and the pilot tube up. line the tang up dot to dot and carefully slide the pump over the shaft carefully working the first seal into the pilot tube. This is very important not to roll that seal! You will put fuel into crankcase and possibly ruin the pilot tube in pump. Did you line the lines up upon removal? If so, simply line the lines back up once slid into position. DO NOT force anything! You may have to take off the access cover to be able to guide and wiggle the gear/shaft assy. once bolted up snug, I turn the eng back a little, and then come up on marks to ensure it's timed correct. As far as the injectors, drop the washer down the hole on a long screwdriver or whatever to keep it from flipping over, and position it on the step in the bore. It goes in like an upside down bowl(concave down). Tighten the two bolts on each injector a little at a time until torqued to 12ft lb. good luck, Ed.
-------------
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
|
Posted By: AaronH
Date Posted: 23 May 2011 at 9:42pm
|
thanks ED. Yes everything lined up nicely and was not touched, during and after removal. I do understand how important the seals are! Kinda tight working room to get the pump on and off the shaft. seems like there is enough to safely slide the pump over the seals. The shop did ask for the drive shaft today because he said he had a tool to install it without rolling the seals. NICE. In his defense, he was not the guy that I talked to when I dropped it off. BTW, I did ask them to turn it up 20%. See how well it runs now. I will post a follow-up tomorrow and let you know if she is running.
|
Posted By: AaronH
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 10:10pm
|
got the pump and injectors in today. It runs. so far so good. No leaks around any lines or the injectors themselves. I did not remove the cover, just used the room I had and made do. I used a right angle seal pick to help guide the first seal into the pump body. Seems to be working fine. I will put a few hours on it tomorrow and see how my work holds up.
|
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 25 May 2011 at 6:27am
nice job! patience always pays off. Ed.
-------------
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
|
|