CA L306 blade speed
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31129
Printed Date: 09 Mar 2025 at 10:10pm
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Topic: CA L306 blade speed
Posted By: Leon B MO
Subject: CA L306 blade speed
Date Posted: 21 May 2011 at 9:36pm
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I would like to try to increase the blade speed of my L306 belly mower. The drive sheave on the belt drive is as big as it can be, any bigger and it will hit the axle housing. So I was going to make the driven sheaves smaller on the mower. Right now they are about 5.5" dia., for about $100 I can buy 3.75" dia. sheaves. In the Grainger chart at 1725 rpm and an 8" drive, the 5" is 2750 rpm's, the 4" is 3450, that's quite an increase, about 25 percent. Question is will the belt have enough surface area to keep it from slipping on the smaller sheaves and will the bearing assembly hold up to the higher speed. I do grease generously. Will the belt hold up with all the twists and bends? I mow in 2nd gear with 14.9 tires and it seems the blades need to travel faster it do a better job of cutting the grass off slicker. I don't get paid to mow grass so I want to spend less time doing it. What's your opinion? Thanks. Leon B MO------------- Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself". |
Replies:
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 21 May 2011 at 9:43pm
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I'm thinking you should be OK with the faster speed. Changing to a smaller driven pulley is a popular upgrade for the J.D. 318 tractor and deck from what I've read on the J.D. garden tractor forum. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 21 May 2011 at 9:44pm
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I don't get paid to mow either so we bought a zero turn rider... ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Tedin NE-OH
Date Posted: 21 May 2011 at 11:00pm
| Smaller driven sheeves means less belt contact area and a higher liklehood of slippage. |
Posted By: Greg_WJP_(WI)
Date Posted: 21 May 2011 at 11:15pm
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Leon,
(I'm going to apologize right away, because I don't know the proper names for everything.) I converted my L306 to 3 belts. It eliminated a lot of the twisting that came from having 1 really long belt. Now it only has 2 half-twists; half each on the way to and from the center blade. I switched the first pulley on the way back to one that runs on the back side of the belt; flat, no V channel. That eliminated the half-twist as it goes up to the pto drive wheel. Because I could never get the single-belt configuration completely tight, I found that it liked to jump off the pulleys or untwist if I hit a patch of heavy grass or something that would make the blades slow down. And once that happened the belt would consistantly want to untwist. Now I can get the belt tight with very little-to-no slipping. I mow in 3rd gear most of the time. I can post some pictures if you're interested.
The zero-turn riders are nice if you have a smooth, flat yard. I borrowed the neighbor's once when I was having belt issues on the mower (before the conversion). I could have put a piece of gum in my mouth and, without me moving my jaw, had it completely chewed by the time I was done mowing. Nothing beats the ride of the larger tires on my CA. The 30 minute time savings each week isn't worth the abuse my body took. And if I wanted to avoid the abuse, I had to slow the rider down to the point I wasn't saving any time.
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Posted By: Leon B MO
Date Posted: 22 May 2011 at 7:11am
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I don't have any trouble getting the belt tight or having it come off. I welded a piece of threaded rod to the carrige bolt that holds the idler. Then draw it down thew the pipe underneath. That part works great. Just trying to get more blade speed. I know the zero turn mowers are all the rage and yes they will mow lots of grass. But I've got about $2000 invested in this mower and if I take care of it, it will still be mowing grass 20 years from now. My yard is pretty much wide open so I can mow 3 acres in about 80 minutes, it's also very stingy on gas. Also with a zero turn, the only thing you can do is mow grass, not the case with a 25 horse tractor. I'm happy with the setup, just want to make it better. Leon B MO  ------------- Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself". |
Posted By: Glockhead SWMI
Date Posted: 22 May 2011 at 7:16am
| I have often thought of doing this myself. Keep us posted on how things turn out. |
Posted By: MBWisc
Date Posted: 22 May 2011 at 7:27am
| Greg, I'd like to see pictures of your set up. I live near Fall Creek. |
Posted By: Greg_WJP_(WI)
Date Posted: 22 May 2011 at 8:45am
| MBWisc, I'll try to take some today and post them when I have a chance. |
Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 22 May 2011 at 2:06pm
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GregAltho I am not experiencing a lot of difficulty with the single belt on my CA and L306, add me to the list of those wanting to see how one goes about converting the L306 to a 3 belt setup. Would also appreciate the details such as additional idlers/tightners and belt sizes. ------------- What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC |
Posted By: Hubert (Ga)engine7
Date Posted: 22 May 2011 at 2:08pm
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Greg, I would like to see pictures of your set up also.
------------- Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 22 May 2011 at 3:17pm
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I have wondered about blade speed but thought maybe the engineers at Woods Manf. may have had a reason for the set-up they supply. I would be more concerned about balancing the blades if I were to run it faster but I balance them now every time I sharpen them. Once I read the set up instructions from Woods Manuf. I have never had trouble with my 1 piece belt. I have a 3 piece pusher bar that is adjustable and fits the B,a C and my CA. I altered it a bit so I can use the mower with my pin hitch drawbar in place. The only trouble I have is the 3 piece push bar needs a stabilizer from it to the drawbar bail to keep the belt tight. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Bob(W-Md)
Date Posted: 22 May 2011 at 7:09pm
| I have a CA with L306 mounted.The orig.Woods pulley is approx.8.50" O.D..I increased the pulley size to approx. 9.50" O.D. . I took the orig.pulley to a supplier to have measured for a new larger one as close as they could match to the orig. in about 9"size which does fit. But still had to have machine work done for the right taper of hole and keyway cut to size like the original pulley.About $250 in part&Labor.It does help with mowing higher grass.You can run the tractor in 2nd gear more.Belt size stayed the same with adjustments.An other fellow told me how he did this and his success.I do think it was worth my investment.A good machinest can do it for you.Hope this might help in your decission. |
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 22 May 2011 at 7:22pm
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I think the National Safety Council, or something like that, sets maximum blade tip speed for mowers. Dusty ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: Allen Dilg
Date Posted: 22 May 2011 at 9:28pm
| Hello Leon Have you checked the engine speed??? or thought about raising the govenor speed. Some engineer at Woods made a lot of money designing the kit. |
Posted By: Greg_WJP_(WI)
Date Posted: 23 May 2011 at 1:11pm
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I've taken some pictures, but they are too large to upload. I'll try to get them resized and posted later tonight or tomorrow. I will also try and get the belts measured. Sorry to make you guys wait.
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Posted By: Leon B MO
Date Posted: 23 May 2011 at 9:30pm
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Bob, can you change your belt without removing your drive pully? The engine speed is right and tractor runs and mows great. My dad bought this mower new from an AC dealer about 40 years ago. I've been mowing with this mower(different tractor) for about 35 years myself. Lots of improvements have been made since then including lots more blade speed. I'm just tryin to catch up with time without spending lots of money. I think I'll try the smaller driven sheaves. Thanks all for the input.
Leon B MO ------------- Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself". |
Posted By: Bob(W-Md)
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 8:22am
| Leon,I can replace the belt without removing pulley.Loosen tension idler pulleys and thread belt over the drive pulley by turning and holding belt against edge of the V grove,might be some what tight.You can turn it by hand,be sure the pto is dis-engaged and everything will turn freely.Make sure you have the right twist in the belt when re- installing.I use heavy gloves handling the belt and turning pulley,a pinching factor exists.Then you can then put the tension back on the belt to desired tightness. |
Posted By: Greg_WJP_(WI)
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 1:55pm
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Here are the pictures.
     Only 1 belt has a part number on it. The one that goes to the right blade. I assume the one to the left would be the same size. Bando Power King B-63. Looks to be 66" long. The drive belt was around 10.5 feet. However, I have the mower deck moved all the way back and I still have a lot of room left on the tensioner pulley, so I could use a belt that was quite a bit longer. I'm in the process of testing out a new, larger idler pulley and didn't have a longer belt laying around. It forced me to move the deck back to make it work. This is the position it was in when I bought it. As you can see in the first picture, the original owners cut the mounting arm so that it wouldn't hit the pulley mounting bracket.
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Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 2:35pm
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The deck on my Allis 917 H has 1 belt on the deck. There's a spring loaded tension idler at the center the belt comes from one side shaft goes to the center shaft wraps about 180* it then about 180* around the idler then on to the other outside shaft, maybe 160* it, and back to the first outside shaft. It looks like that would work here. Then you would have a tightener on the deck belt. ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: Greg_WJP_(WI)
Date Posted: 24 May 2011 at 3:25pm
| I thought of putting a tensioner on the deck, but this just seem to be a better fit for me...eliminated the painfully long belt and almost all the twististing. If I didn't have to remove the deck every fall to switch over to snow removal, it may have been a different story. |