1934 Model E
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30747
Printed Date: 22 Aug 2025 at 9:04am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 1934 Model E
Posted By: AL35U
Subject: 1934 Model E
Date Posted: 15 May 2011 at 1:33am
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Working on getting a 1934 E running again. Changed the head gaskets and got it back into one piece. Having a little trouble finding much information on this particular model. Specifically we're not sure how much oil to put in it, can't find a serial number and we're not getting compression when cranking it. It's sat for the last 7 years, but always ran great until one of the head gaskets blew. Any thoughts or info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! |
Replies:
Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 15 May 2011 at 7:42am
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IF ?? you had it running before removing heads ,DID you adjust the valves ? after putting head gaskets in. Would be a lot easyer to help you if talking to you.
Did it sit 7 years after head gaskets started leaking ??
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Posted By: AL35U
Date Posted: 15 May 2011 at 10:10am
| Yes it sat after the head gaskets leaked but all fluid except the gas was drained before it was put away. I didn't adjust the valves because I wasn't quite sure how to and one of them is sticking but I was hoping after getting it started that it would break loose. |
Posted By: Tricky Dickie
Date Posted: 17 May 2011 at 3:10am
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Pull the heads off again and do a proper valve job! When you replace the heads make sure that the valves have 12 thou' clearance when hot and after tightening down. These engines run beautifully and have real grunt - especially the 5 1/4" bore version. The bore size will be marked on a pad on the left hand side of the block rear of and lower than the oil filter - which bore is yours?
Tricky Dickie
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 17 May 2011 at 2:51pm
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You won't be lucky enough to unstick a valve by running the engine... and it really won't wanna start with the valve stuck... if it's an intake valve, you'll have no manifold vacuum, hence, no consistent draw through the carb venturi. If it's on the exhaust side, you'll have very poor draw. Give it the valve job, and make sure the valve springs are good... if they're soft, it won't run well at all. |
Posted By: Tricky Dickie
Date Posted: 18 May 2011 at 1:24am
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That's right - I have noticed that these engines are sensitive to valve and spring condition. If the valves are ok, they run perfectly, but if not they are all over the place!
Tricky Dickie
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Posted By: dave63
Date Posted: 18 May 2011 at 6:01am
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The valve springs were weak in mine and i found that valve springs from a 200 fit inside of the orginal springs.
I double springed her and she runs great under load but i still need to work on the carb and i need to resleeve her. just another project in waiting. ------------- The universal answer to all questions is yes, how much do you want to spend? |
Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 18 May 2011 at 10:26am
| Serial number should be stamped on the transmission case just in front of the shift lever. Often this area can be quite rusted and the number is sometimes hard to see. |
Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 18 May 2011 at 10:29am
| There should be two petcocks or plugs on the left side of the lower oil pan. Fill with oil until it just reaches the level of the upper petcock or plug. |
Posted By: Tricky Dickie
Date Posted: 19 May 2011 at 3:15am
They always seem to run better under load. The trick is getting them to idle smoothly at very low revs. When they will do that, you know that they are pretty much OK!
Tricky Dickie
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dave63 wrote:Posted By: dave63
Date Posted: 19 May 2011 at 6:29am
------------- The universal answer to all questions is yes, how much do you want to spend? |
Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 19 May 2011 at 6:38am
This old boy here ,You can count every fire of ech cyc .when you idle it real low. 5 1/4 bore ,with kero set up .
BTW .This old boy is leaving the country this weekend .Just lost intrest in after getting a few other older toys.
Dave 63 has one just 16 miles away ,why have a couple in just a few miles .LOL
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Posted By: Tricky Dickie
Date Posted: 19 May 2011 at 6:52am
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Nice 30-60 Thresherman's Special! I have one the same, but without those massive double rear wheels. Where's it going Fred?
Tricky Dickie
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Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 19 May 2011 at 6:55am
| Canada |
Posted By: tractorchuckie
Date Posted: 19 May 2011 at 4:36pm
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sweet. I can't wait to see it at an canadian show this summer. thxchuck ------------- still looking for the holy grail of Allis |
Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 19 May 2011 at 8:56pm
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Chuck and Terri Have a safe trip with Steve's new toy. Lets hope US Customs doesn't eat you for lunch. ------------- Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed |
Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 19 May 2011 at 9:17pm
| Maybe they will just keep Chuck and let Terri go .LOL |
Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 19 May 2011 at 9:22pm
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May have to sacrifice Chuck to get the WF to Steve ------------- Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed |
Posted By: AL35U
Date Posted: 19 May 2011 at 10:08pm
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I'm glad you posted that pic of your Thresherman's Special. We're actually trying to figure out if that's what we have. It's got the 5 1/4" bore, but not the kero set up, although it may have been set up that way at one time. But looking up information in different places is leading us in different directions. Is it true they only made 70 Thresherman's Special 30-60hps? (We use our E to pull and run a 1930 Baker Thresher) I found the serial number, but it's really hard to make out so that doesn't help anything. This has all been very helpful so far and I want to thank you all for that. Hopefully starting on the valves tomorrow, but we at least are getting some compression now. I'm just not sure we're getting it from all four. |
Posted By: AL35U
Date Posted: 19 May 2011 at 10:08pm
| Also, I hope to have a few pics of her up pretty soon. |
Posted By: Tricky Dickie
Date Posted: 20 May 2011 at 3:02am
http://www.allischalmers.com/new/forum/uploads/1801/lesvos2010_038.jpg"> uploads/1801/lesvos2010_038.jpg
Here is a picture of mine. It is a kero model and it is stamped "kero 5 1/4" on the engine number pad. As EACH CYLINDER is 2.3 litres (141 cu in), it really takes some pull on the handle to get it over compression, but will almost always start on the second compression and runs like a Swiss watch, from an incredibly slow idle, right up to the max. I am not sure of the exact number of 30-60's made, but it was not many and they are thin on the ground today, particularly here in the UK. The power and torque of these 5 1/4" bore, 563 cu in engines has to be experienced to be believed and mine feels to have noticably more grunt than my 5" bore kero Model A, which itself is no slouch! I really like these old E series tractors, which in the past have often been underrated and undervalued by collectors - that's changing now, as their real charm and "personality" is becoming recognised.
Tricky Dickie
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Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 20 May 2011 at 10:07am
| Trickie Dickie! You are definitely developing 'Orange blood' !LOL (That TC head must be getting close to you by now!) |
Posted By: Tricky Dickie
Date Posted: 21 May 2011 at 5:27am
Tricky Dickie
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