Farm Equipment - Won't Start

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Won't Start

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30617
Printed Date: 06 Mar 2025 at 1:50pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: Won't Start

Posted By: Rich Steiner
Subject: Won't Start
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 6:47am

Okay I'm back....

I got new plugs, wires, and brand new coil from Bill at Sandy Lake.

The C still won't start. I have no spark at the coil.

I tried new wire from bat to coil still no go.

Rich

Replies:

Posted By: Jordan(OH)
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 7:14am

Make sure points are adjusted properly. Points and condensor should be replaced since you just replaced everything else.

Posted By: Rich Steiner
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 7:34am

Okay I'll try that next....

Rich

Posted By: Bill Deppe/AC Salvag
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 7:57am

Last summer I had a tractor that wouldn't start, even after completely going through the distributor, cap etc. Finally put in a new rotor and problem was cured.

Posted By: junkman
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 8:53am

Yes I have tested many a rotor and found them not working.

Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 11:42am

I bought a new coil from Fleet Farm and it was bad out of the package. Of course they won't let return anything electrical.

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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I am a Russian Bot

Posted By: GlenninPA
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 2:03pm

If you have a meter, you can figure out where the current is getting grounded. Start at the battery and work your way forward. I had to do that on my 1950 B, was surprised at what I found, but it made sense.

Good luck.

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Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment.
From listening comes wisdom and from speaking comes repentance.
Wise men learn more from fools than fools from the wise.

Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 2:28pm

New points and condenser are a good investment. New does not necessarily mean good. Just got done beating my head against an 04 Focus with no spark on cyls 2 & 3. Turns out the new coil that I put on was faulty. Bad thing is the coil on off pulse is too short to see with a test light like the engineers say you can and if the resistance of the coil is too low or high, the PCM doesn't try to trigger the coil. Found that when I robbed one off a used car on the lot...

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Posted By: pumpkin man
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 4:20pm

use a test light check # 1 do you have power at coil #2 do you have power at the outside dist. termenal #3 check for power at the points #4 pullthe coil wire out of the cap hold the wire close to metal with egn. switch on turn engn. over look for spark. if non check for burnt points or coil .

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 4:50pm

Open distributor to access points , if they are closed , use insulated object to open them while near-grounding HT lead from coil. Should have spark when they close again.

If points are open , use a screwdriver to complete the circuit across point arms with HT lead near-ground and you should have spark. Have had tungsten on points corrode at arm and not conduct , as well as other strange things .

Bad condencer will go to ground .. Now this is assuming you have voltage at the coil.

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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

Posted By: Teddy (punchie)
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 5:09pm

Just a few things that may help; replaced point in a Ford 2600, the new screw that holds the condensor was too long (grounding to the distributor frame). Had to trim the screw and put back in the tractor it was ok.

You can take the wire off the coil and let the spark jump to the wire, should be a nice blue color. If no spark can be key (switch), wire, battery conection (sometimes not the same as the starter wire), or coil. Next would see if the wire going to the cap has spark, then check the wires. BE CAREFUL AS NOT TOO GET SHOCKED from the coiland wires.

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Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc.

Posted By: Rich Steiner
Date Posted: 13 May 2011 at 6:21am

Success!!!!!! It runs Great!!!!

Thanks guys for all your help...

Now it is on to a CA

Thanks again

Rich

Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 13 May 2011 at 6:30am

So Rich please tell us what you found some of us will learn from your experiance

Posted By: Rich Steiner
Date Posted: 13 May 2011 at 6:47am

Well after buying yet another set of points, double checking the coil to see if it was good,

buying a "test light" I checked out everything and it was all good....

So I tried again. No luck. I went around the tractor to see that my carb and air filter were missing. Hmmmm my helper was working on it.

Last night I went to my friends house and when I got home the little C was sitting in a different spot. So I tried it and sure enough my friend got her running.... Now I have 5 more to go....to fix up....Thanks again for all your help, I plan to try to get a pic posted on here.....

Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 13 May 2011 at 6:57am

So was it ignition or was it missing the carb and a fuel issue all along?

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1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson

Posted By: Rich Steiner
Date Posted: 13 May 2011 at 7:02am

I'm thinking both

Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 13 May 2011 at 9:48am

LOL! Missing carb usually results in a non-running tractor!!