Farm Equipment - 7060 thermostat

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7060 thermostat

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30614
Printed Date: 06 Mar 2025 at 1:53pm
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Topic: 7060 thermostat

Posted By: 7060
Subject: 7060 thermostat
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 12:28am

On these hot days ive been running around 195 degrees. Does anyone know if you can get 160 degree thermostats to replace the 180 degree. Auto parts store said I had to take it out for them to look at it. I had the radiator shop go over the radiator and it has a new foam kit around it. Im running water wetter in it too.

Replies:

Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 6:03am

If you have a 180 degree and you are running 195, the thermostat isn't gonna help any more. Need to make sure the foam around the rad is tight. Dad can never keep his cool when working it hard. Others may disagree, but I think it was a common problem with the 7000 series, esp the higher horse ones.

AaronSEIA

Posted By: Bret (OH)
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 6:16am

A lower temp thermostat will not solve your problem. The coolant flow volume is the same no matter the opening temp of the thermostat, a lower temp just opens sooner it does not allow more coolant to pass through it. If your running at 195 the thermostat has been completely open since 180 and you still have an additional 15 degrees of temprature rise. If you installed a 160 thermostat it would just be fully open at 160 instead of 180 and your tractor would still run at 195. Could be the airflow through the core is not sufficient to remove the heat (could be slipping belts, ect.), or the fins are partially clogged with debris, or the inside of the tubes are scaled up, which impairs proper heat transfer, or a combination of these things, but it is not the opening temprature of the thermostat. I have found that a really good pressure washing of the fins solves lots of cooling problems. Spray straight through to avoid bending the fins with the water pressure. If all else fails you may have to replace the radiator of have it re-cored.

Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 7:19am

I was always told a colder thermostat just changed the minimum temp. not the maximum but I used to have one in my pickup that overheated and it never got above 170 maybe just didnt run it long enough. The radiator was hot tanked 30 engine hours ago and every fin is straight. I made sure I could see through every one. I also cleaned and straightened the oil coolers and a/c coil to let the air get through there. I bought a new $100 foam kit from agco when I put it back together and sealed every opening, so I know all the air its gettin is coming through the grill. I have it turned up 20% but im not able to use all the power I have because Ill start running hot and have to shift down. Im running out of ideas. Maybe 7080 radiator or drill some 1/2" holes in the stat?

Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 8:12am

What kind of horse power are you running?

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I am a Russian Bot

Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 9:49am

Should be around 192hp.

Posted By: Dans 7080
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 10:54am

I have a 7060 turning 210hp and have no trouble keeping it cool pulling a 26ft disc. I have done nothing to the colling system other than putting a waterpump on it, which it needed when I bought it in 04.

Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 11:05am

It could just be a bad thermostat. We had a Ford CM222 mower (I know, a lot smaller of a diesel...) that overheated very easily since we had it. We tried everything from a new water pump to getting the radiator recored. Finally, we decided to put in a new thermostat, and low and behold, the mower ran right in the middle of the temperature gauge. Those things can get corroded where they won't open fully and cause a motor to overheat. I don't think 195 is anything to be concerned about if it is holding that temperature. I don't like to see over 200 for any sustained time in a water-cooled motor.

Hurst

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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours

Posted By: kev/ont
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 11:11am

did you measure 195 with an infered thermometer or the tractor guage on the dash. Is that on the block or the head, personally 195 does sound like it's real hot to me.

Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 11:37am

Dad got a D/14 new and it ran hot pulling a heavy dise in 2nd high range . His brother a mechine told to use STP in it. Put STP in and could pull it in 3rd high and not get as hot. I run Lucus in it now . Don,t get used much.

Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 5:43pm

I have an aftermarket gauge on it and the sender is right below the thermostats. Im taking the thermostats out now to put new ones in, but am having a hard time with the bolts. The paints still around them so it doesnt look like its ever been apart. The temp will stay around 195 when im in 2nd slow in fast range. It gets up to 200 when I shift the PD to high though. When it gets to 200 it will start spitting out the radiator tube.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 5:51pm

Use a torch and warm up the thermostat hsg where each bolt is or you WILL twist them off !!!

Posted By: jiminnd
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 8:53pm

Does this one have two thermostats? I don't remember which ones did but I had one with one bad stat, caused heating as soon as you pulled it, would be fine with no load, thought both my 7030 and 8030 had two, just not sure.

Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 9:09pm

Should be two.

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Wink
I am a Russian Bot

Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 12 May 2011 at 10:52pm

They looked pretty nasty, going to see if Agco has 2 of them tomorrow. With no load it runs right at 180. Seems like if I run it at about 2000 rpm it runs a little cooler than 2300, which seems backwards to me since your moving less water, but I guess less fuel too.