Put a tractor on jack stands
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29500
Printed Date: 04 Mar 2025 at 8:23am
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Topic: Put a tractor on jack stands
Posted By: Sitesstables
Subject: Put a tractor on jack stands
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 7:03am
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Someone have a good method to be safe putting my D17 on some type of stand? My left rear brakes are not working so need to get it up and rim off. I can cut railrod ties and stack them but not sure of the stability.. also how many ton jack to I need to get her up in the first place? ------------- 1965 D17 Series IV |
Replies:
Posted By: TexasAllis
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 7:09am
If the RR ties are in good shape and square you should be just fine. I have used cinder blocks with 2x4's and car jacks and it worked with no problems. Just make sure what ever base you use is wide and stable.
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Sitesstables wrote:Posted By: BobHnwO
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 7:45am
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Cement blocks set on short piece of 2X8,with short 2X8's between the blocks.
------------- Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow. |
Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 7:51am
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I do NOT recommend cinder or concrete blocks, altho I have used good solid concrete blocks in the proper orientation (holes vertical) with 2 X 8s totally covering the top and bottom of each block. I would pick out some good flat pieces of your railroad ties and make sure they set nice and flat as you stack them.
Practically any small hydraulic jack will lift one side of your tractor; the problem is finding room for both the jack and the blocking.
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Posted By: DonDittmar
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 8:24am
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Dad works for road commission, I get treated 6x8"s(guard rail posts) to use instead of cement blocks ------------- Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity" 1968 D15D,1962 D19D Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start |
Posted By: JoeO(CMO)
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 8:34am
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Don is right on, also landscaping timbers work good, 6x6, even 4x4 deck lumber, all are cut square and solid, and they lay flat when stacked for a solid support. I use a mix of the 6x6 and 4x4. It doesn't take very many and you are up to the differential case.
Check with a landscaper, they may have some leftovers or take outs ------------- |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 8:59am
| I use 6x6 treated ends . I have two brothers that build pole buildings so plenty of ends. criss cross the bottom two lavers and than stack on that. lift the tractor from the drawbar bail with a 3.5 ton floor jack. of course you need to be on a stabil surface anytime you jack a tractor. |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 9:07am
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Be sure to use wheel chocks on the front wheels as well.
I use solid 8by8 cutoffs from the timberframer next door,2' long,2 side by side going N-S, then two on top going E-W,repeat as required to get the height you need.
When taking tires off/on I have a tapered 2by10 under the tire.Makes it a lot easier to roll the tire back onto the hub.
You can NEVER be too safe ! ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2011 at 9:33am
| Better yet I use 12x12s about a foot to 16" long. Very stable and since they are fir and cedar they are light weight too. |
Posted By: swit
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 4:13am
| just alittle story that happened to me i was young and stupid like most i was wosking on the rear end of my camaro i put 2 blocks on there ends for support not knowing any better i had just came out from underneath the car tires were off and boom both blocks exploded car hit the ground never did that again so now to this date i all wats go over board when supporting any thing 6x6s most of the time or a good pair of jack stands no 20 dollar jack stands in my shop |
Posted By: dannyraddatz
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 5:42am
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I reading the posting and replies, I have used the solid concrete block and 4" x 6" treated lumber. As I looked on the internet this morning I ran across these tall jack stands offered by Greg Smith Equipment, a 10 ton set is only $139.00, I have a link below to his web page. I know my health insurance deductible is more than that.
Danny
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Jack-Stands-s/28.htm - http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Jack-Stands-s/28.htm
------------- Danny Raddatz |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 8:17am
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Just a dumb question, why do you need to take the rim off to work on the brakes, is it a series IV? Series I, II, and III, you don't need to take the wheel off, unless you plan to replace the drum, or a seal. Just wondering? Not sure about the new style Series IV brakes. ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: Sitesstables
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 8:27am
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@ Orange Blood.. Series IV I am not super mechanical and I thought that was how you would get to them i will look into them more next week when I am off... I have brakes on the right but nothing on the left,, need to see what is up ------------- 1965 D17 Series IV |
Posted By: split51
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2011 at 9:56am
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I have a few old tractor transmission cases and axle tubes that work great for jackstands. ------------- 1929 20-35 sn17662 B1 w/snow blade B10 w/sickle mower B110 w/mower deck B110 w/tiller B112 w/grader blade B210 w/plo |