Gemmer Steering Box
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28990
Printed Date: 03 Mar 2025 at 10:20pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Gemmer Steering Box
Posted By: cmsmoke
Subject: Gemmer Steering Box
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 9:18am
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I set the tooth depth on on my "C". The eccentric screw was missing, so I rotated it into place by lightly tapping on it with a dead blow hammer, which worked out fine. When I installed the box on the tractor, the tube ends up about 1" above the rest plate where the upper part of the tube gets clamped on. I understand setting tooth depth rotates the housing. Is this normal?
When it is clamped in place and the front tires are lifted it steers easy, so it doesn't seem like it is binding. I don't want to hurt the bearings over time holding it down to get the clamp on.
The correct way to solve this would be to make a longer support tube, drill new mounting holes in it and remount the throttle, battery box tab and the box for switches and amp. gauge. Ths seems like alot of extra work for a design flaw. Should I go the extra mile or stop over-thinking it?
Also is there a shorter steering box arm available to make it steer easier. I don't need the full amount of travel that it currently has. Tractor is a 1942 according to serial numbers.
Thanks
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Replies:
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 8:39pm
| Somehow I think you may have the wrong gear box. The steering tube should lay right in the saddle and not bind. Could it be that the verticle pipe that the saddle sets in has been shortened? Does it steer easy before you pull the steering shaft down and clamp it? I think things are binding. Do you have the saddle that the steering tube sets on? It goes on the top of the verticle pipe that the switch box and throtle lever mount to. |
Posted By: cmsmoke
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 6:07am
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It has the right steering box. The tractor steers easy with the wheels off the ground. I don't think that pulling it down is causing it to steer hard. My concern is causing the bearings to wear prematurely. The tractor steering effort is probably normal. The reason I asked about a shorter arm is it is a little harder than my liking. They could all be this way.
Thanks
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Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 8:31am
| Along with the eccentric screw, there should be two eccentric bustings. moving all three wil move the housing up and down without changing the angle of the steering tube. Its best to set the clearance with the box installed. If you don't have the eccentrics on its a moot point as your settings will never stay. within a week it will be loose again. |
Posted By: Boomer
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 9:43am
| Help! I am having the same problem. I changed the bottom eccentric to adjust the backlash of the gears. Similar to other machines that have this similar setup...I adjust the bottom ecentric bolt to the point where the is very little drag in the middle. Most of the time the middle point of the worm screw is most worn, because it is steered straight most of the time. The eccentric bushing mentioned, I think is just a tapered bushing, and I have only one "bushing". I guess I will to loosen the adjustment and get the steering tube angle correct, and tighten the gear box at that time. |
Posted By: Boomer
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 9:43am
| Also, will a later model of steering box interchange? |
Posted By: GlenninPA
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 10:11am
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The Ross box should bolt right on. ------------- Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment. From listening comes wisdom and from speaking comes repentance. Wise men learn more from fools than fools from the wise. |
Posted By: cmsmoke
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 10:46am
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Thanks Dakota Dave! This is starting to make sense now. Somebody put spacers in every hole of my steering box to keep the holes centered with the studs. I don't know why. They are not what was intended to be there. I removed them and adjusted as I desribed above.
My steering box has a large stepped stud with a sort of acme thread on the thick part and the standard 7/16" fine thread on the end. This stud is what I thought was the pivot point. The large nut is missing and has a pipe spacer replacing it. Is this the other eccentric point?
I didn't take the box apart, just adjusted it. The parts book and service manual are kind of vague in this area.
Does anyone have pictures of a Gemmer apart so that I can see what I need?
It looks like I'm going to need some parts or another box. Can anyone help?
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Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2011 at 8:28pm
| Yes there should be an eccentric sleeve there. Its suposed to have a hex end on the sleeve and the nut tightens against it. the other holse look kinda elongated and have washers that tighten against the housing to spread the load. |
Posted By: cmsmoke
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 4:57am
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I took it apart and the sleeve is still there, but the hex is sheared off. Hopefully I can get the sleeve out and still use it for now to make an adjustment. I think I can make an eccentric screw.
Does anyone know where I can get an eccentric screw and sleeve?
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Posted By: cmsmoke
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2011 at 7:41pm
OK, I have it apart. There are more issues than I thought.
As you can see the eccentric rivit hole has been tapped, but look what someone did to the adjustment sleeve stud. A 3/4" capscrew has been threaded into the housing and then machined down and threaded to 7/16". What a mess!
 Is the small hole above the large stud supposed to be there and if so, what is it for?
 This is how it was.
 I ordered an adjusting sleeve, eccentric rivit, studs, nuts, large dia. lock washers and gaskets from Brattons. The parts I ordered are actually for a '29-'31 Ford Model A. They also used a 2 segment Gemmer box. They should be here tomorrow. I will let you know if they will work. The whole bill was $21 and change plus shipping.
I am going to thread a 3/4" stud into the large hole with some type of locktight or bearing mount, cut it off and grind/file flush, then I will drill and tap it for the new stud. The rivit hole will need to be addressed as well.
The good news is the sector, worm and bearings are very nice (Almost like new).
Before i get too far ahead, the studs I ordered are listed as 3/8". The studs in this box are 7/16". What size should they be? I want to make sure there is enough room in the holes to get adjustment. I will either helicoil them down to 3/8" or open up the holes another 1/16" if needed.
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Posted By: cmsmoke
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2011 at 10:35pm
The new parts came today and I reworked the butchered housing. It turned out great. I did a dry fit and everything works correctly. I will finish it tomorrow. Here are a couple more pictures. Take alook at the new parts. There is another place called Mac's that has steering parts for '32-'34 fords including sector shafts and worms that look to be correct for the Allis steering boxes. He also has the bearings.
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