Need some pointers on WC
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28422
Printed Date: 01 Mar 2025 at 7:14am
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Topic: Need some pointers on WC
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Subject: Need some pointers on WC
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 6:36pm
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The WC that I picked up last fall that I finally got running, I have taken out two or three times for rides in the backfields. Each time I take it out, starts right up and purrs perfectly. Drive it out of the garage and out to the back and it usually runs for a couple minutes and then it dies. Try starting it again and it runs good, but when you try to put it in gear it dies again. Leave it sit for awhile and start it back up and it's ok again, but if I run it for too long, same thing. The carb I have cleaned once or twice, didn't notice anything in there for junk. Sediment bowl has been getting some crud in it from the tank, as I'm sure it could use a good cleaning. But I don't think it's fuel related, because it will run fine until I start to work it by driving and then the problem comes about. I haven't gotten the electrical system diagnosed, so right now I just have a jumper going straight from the battery to the coil with alligator clips.
I even tried changing out coils to see if that did anything but nothing different. Points are clean and I took the cap off and cranked it over and had good spark between the points.
Would love to hear some advice on what I am overlooking. Funny thing is when it runs, it runs perfect. It's not like when you have a carb set wrong, or it is dirty and doesn't want to let fuel up properly. It starts like a champ and runs great, just dies after about 5 minutes of driving and then seems to not want to run right until it completely cools down, like something ignition related is getting too hot. ------------- 1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221 |
Replies:
Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 6:48pm
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I would have said not getting fuel until your last sentence about having to cool down to run right. One of my WC's has a gas cap that fits to tight and if I don't run it loose it will run for a couple minutes and die and then start up again and run for a little bit and die. ------------- Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker |
Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 6:49pm
| Have you changed to a different coil yet and tried it?? That is what it sounds like as it heats up to the point that the circuit breaks until it cools back down to start again. Might try a condensor next, or first, and see if that does anything. HTH. |
Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 7:09pm
| Could be trash in fuel tank restricking flow . Fills carb runs and when pulling requires more fuel and starves out. Sets and carb refills. |
Posted By: 48AC/WD
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 7:31pm
| Replace your condenser use a canning jar with fresh fuel and try it, to eliminate fuel tank trash and sediment in the bowl. please keep us updated Have you checked the needle in the carb?... if not, pull it out and clean the heck out of it, put it back in... |
Posted By: 8fan
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 7:54pm
| Sounds like stuff in the tank to me. Have had the same problem in the past, then just cleaned the tanks before using. Rust and stuff plugs the hole in the tank. When you shut it off, it kinda loosens up, and moves away. |
Posted By: Matt MN
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 8:10pm
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its the condensor. ------------- Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!! |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 8:32pm
Should be VERY LITTLE spark between points. big spark here means either bad condenser, bad coil ground, or coil connected backwards. |
ChuckLuedtkeSEWI wrote:Posted By: Pat the Plumber CIL
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 8:34pm
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Chuck I don't know if this is it but my 60 D-17 was doing exactly what your WC is doing.Finally found chunk of crud in gas tank outlet above sediment bowl.Just enough for it to run a while until it needed more and was starved.Cleaned it and tank out and have not had a problem since.May not be same problem but is easy to check.Take fuel line loose at carb and see how good of a flow you have. Just my 2 cents ------------- You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails 1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF. |
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 9:34pm
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Ok, I will check on a few things. I have a small gas tank off of a snowblower that I can rig up to isolate the fuel system. I will take the carb off one more time and doublecheck things. If I try and replace the condenser, where is a good place to buy one? I have heard on here that some people have been getting bad condensers so I would like to avoid that if at all possible. ------------- 1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221 |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 9:38pm
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like Pat said, but leave the fuel run for 5 minutes, to be sure that a blockage doesn't occur. Bob |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 9:42pm
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Another place to test is the carburetor inlet adapter screen. It gets clogged with grunge and varnish and won't let fuel pass to run with a load, but will let fuel run to idle and when the engine starves, it takes a while to get enough in the float bowl to run again. One test for that condition is to pull the choke on when its dying. If it picks up for a few seconds its fuel starvation. Another test is to pull the drain plug from the float bowl, and see if you can sustain a flow bigger than a pencil lead. Should be bigger that. There will be a major flow of maybe a cup. If it just drips after that there's a clog in the inlet screen, the pipe, the sediment bowl and its screen, or the screen in the tank and it can be some of all of the above. The pipe can have accumulated varnish until it just barely flows. It can also be coil, condenser, or wiring or gas tank cap, though usually it takes 10 to 15 minutes for the non venting cap to show up. You can check that by loosening the cap when its stopped and quiet. If there's a vacuum, when you loosen the cap, its not venting. Vintage tractor gas caps nearly always contain the vent that's necesary to get fuel out of the tank and a cap from modern vehicles seals tight. Gerald J. |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2011 at 7:27am
| This is a great site for advice!!! I think Gerald J sumed it up the best, as confirmed by others Roll on WC!! |
Posted By: Richard
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2011 at 9:04am
| I had a '55 Chevy that would run like a rabbit, then die just like you turned the key off. Finally isolated it to the rotor. Once when it died we removed the distributor cap right away and observed the rotor center contact in a 'down' position, but it was rising back to a normal position. The rotor was replaced and that took care of the problem. |
Posted By: mike a
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2011 at 5:58pm
| make sure you don't use a fuel filter from a car.cars have fuel pumps,gas tractors don't.gas will hardly run through this big filter.i use a small,clear filter from a snapper riding lawn mower.it stopped the stalling on my wc. |