Attempted to start brake job on B
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28359
Printed Date: 01 Mar 2025 at 7:28am
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Topic: Attempted to start brake job on B
Posted By: yochujr
Subject: Attempted to start brake job on B
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 6:17pm
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I started to go out this evening and tear some things down so I can get the brakes replaced. I was wondering, do the adjuster screws need to be completely removed to pull the bands out? I haven't taken the seat frame off but I thought I would see the the adjuster screws would turn any and they're completely seized. I put a large flathead screwdriver and a wrench on the handle and all it did was spread th slot in the screw and completely twist the end of my screwdriver. Wouldn't budge a bit?
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Replies:
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 6:26pm
I'm going by memory here, but if you are going to remove the brake bands and replace them, you will need to take the seat and the sideframes that hold the fenders off as they won't come out the small hole that the brake cover is over. You might want to break it down that far and then you can get in there with some heat etc. to loosen things up. Good luck.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Posted By: yochujr
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 6:34pm
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After looking, I'm thinking I might just have to start carrying an anchor with me. I started looking down in the opening and everything is fairly wet inside. I sprayed quite a bit of pen oil but it looks like the seals might be bad. I also have a mild "grinding" while driving it. I noticed when it gets to bouncing a little bit, the noise cuts in and out. I'm thinking the bearings might need to be replaced. If that's the case and I need to pull the final drives, I might be starting to get in over my head....
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Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 7:38pm
It's really not that hard. The seals are easy to replace once you get it all apart. Just make sure you block things up safely and do one side at a time.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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Posted By: beeman
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 10:53pm
Seat and side frames must come off and pivot pins in housing come out after clips are removed from the top. I hooked up a shop hoist to one end of the band with some wire and pulled it out.New bands were required on mine as old ones were too far gone to reline.
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1949 B 3930 Ford- Have owned other Orange ,green,red,yellow,dark green tractors and equipment.
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Posted By: swit
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2011 at 4:13am
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do these brakes that hard to get out i need to do my B this summer its not that im worried about doing it have all tools needed its just that alot of post i have seen all seem to have one thing in common they come out hard to get out
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Posted By: Tim in Charleston
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2011 at 7:01am
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What it is is that there is no easy way of getting the brakes out of the Model B's and c's and if you are like me it takes time to get all of the crap out of the brake housing and getting the new brakes back in without messing up the new liners on the brakes it is getting the brakes around the brake drum it is hard to do but it needs to be done the right way am I right on that guys?
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Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2011 at 10:10am
I just finished that job on my 'B'. Seat and fender angles have to come off as the bands will not fit through the smaller hole in the fender angle iron. The adjusting screws don't have to come off if you pull the bands from that end. The biggest problem is the hinge on the bottom between the two halves of the band is usually rusted solid, so it takes a good strong pull to pull the old band around the drum and out. I wouldn't even try to save it--They're usually too far gone. I had to pull mine out in two pieces as the return spring had broken up and was wedged between the band and the drum.
Got a new band and spring from Tony at Tony's tractors and pulled it into place with a piece of wire and reassembled everything and now have good brakes!!
If your seal is bad and possibly the bearing you will have to pull the axle to replace them.
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