allis B won't start
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28347
Printed Date: 01 Mar 2025 at 12:02pm
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Topic: allis B won't start
Posted By: tpieman22
Subject: allis B won't start
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 3:09pm
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I have an ALlis B 1940 model have good spark. carb is clean an gas is runnin out the carb. Tried choking tried closeing gas off an still nothin. I timed the fairbanks morse mag It clicks an fires (good spark on #1 plug) The valves (pushrods are properly adjusted). I even tried ether just a little smoke puff out the exhaust , no pop or anything. the click is on #1 just as the FIRE mark appears in the flywheel hole. Yes it has compression, any ideas ? I will pull it if I have too . does the timing sound right?
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Replies:
Posted By: wbecker
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 3:32pm
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You may have the mag set to fire on the FIRE mark but at Top center compression stroke on #4 cylinder instead of #1. Check to see that when #1 plug fires it is near #1 top dead center on the compression stroke, not top center on the exhaust stroke.
Bill B
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Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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Posted By: GlenninPA
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 3:34pm
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The 1950 I bought outside Baltimore did not want to light off for anything. Had gas, good spark, timing and compression. Ether just made puffs.
Finally took the carb off and shot ether into every vent, jet and passage. Reassembled, gave it a shot as it cranked, and it lit off and ran like a top.
Why? I have no idea, but I had tried everything else......
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Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment.
From listening comes wisdom and from speaking comes repentance.
Wise men learn more from fools than fools from the wise.
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Posted By: wkpoor
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 4:53pm
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This gas today is terrible if it goes unused for a while. It will plug ports very easily. Since I started using AvGas several yrs ago I've had zero fuel related issues no matter how long something sits between starts.
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Posted By: wbecker
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 5:15pm
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Av gas is great stuff, good for a long time, but wow, I'm paying over $4.50/ gallon for my airplane now.
Bill B
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Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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Posted By: Allen Dilg
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 7:41pm
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Hello tpieman Pull the mag and turn the imput 180, and retry. If not bring #1 up on compression, get #1 spk wire on mag to fire and install. NOW please repost findings, or what the problem was for us armchair mec#$%hanics!!!! Good luck
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Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 9:19pm
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If when cranking it over and stop at the click and it is at the (FIRE) line in the inspection hole you are 30 degrees off. It needs to be at (CENTER or TDC) at that point. The mechanical advance moves to the fire line when running.
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Posted By: tpieman22
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 8:28pm
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welll!!!!!!!!!!!! still not running I have a good blue spark an it is timed now on #1 at top dead center. still not even one pop. can u ask to trade parts on here? I have some allis B brake shoes an parts I would like to trade for the early hand brake type is that permissable?be nice to have brakes when I pull it. Also did the original crank handle have a bolt on the end or did someone modify this crank?
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 8:34pm
Well if you have spark at TDC on the compression stroke all you need for it to run is fuel in there.
Yes there is a classified section for wanted and for sale items.
I think the cranks had a straight pin to catch on the pulley. It may have been knurled or swedged to fit tight.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: beeman
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 9:37pm
Feel lucky? Pull it to a hill and coast start it in 3rd with no one or thing ahead of you. You can pull the throttle back and compression brake down the rest of the hill and then drive it back in 1st......
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1949 B 3930 Ford- Have owned other Orange ,green,red,yellow,dark green tractors and equipment.
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Posted By: Bee
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2011 at 8:33am
You may have a valve sticking open. Put your hand over the carb inlet and crank the motor. the vacuum should be very strong on your hand.
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Bob, North Carolina
1949 B
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Posted By: pumpkin man
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2011 at 11:50am
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sounds like your 180 dgs. off to be sure your timed right -remove plugs -valve cover-bring tdc mark up both valves should be closed [rocker arms will be loose] check mag [points should be open -rotor should be pointing at the timing lug in the mag. cap. also when starting move throdele open 3 or 4 notches
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Posted By: wbecker
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2011 at 12:17pm
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I don't see a reason to pull, if it won't start, there is a prblem that needs to me fixed.
Have you hand cranked it with the valve cover off watching for correct valve operation?
Is there compression?
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Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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Posted By: tpieman22
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2011 at 6:57am
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Well I have a split tractor in the driveway now matching the two other halfs (one given to me the other I had bought but has a cracked block. After some blisters I checked the compression 35, 20,0,0,. Have the block being boiled had one broken cam follower, one bent pushrod and stuck rings. The waterjacket side of the liners were severly pitted on two of them. The machine shop said they will turn the crank down for me. I have a manual from tractor supply. It shows the brass shims to set the bearings back to correct clearance on rods and mains. Is this really necessary? They said the crank turning people like to supply the new bearings. I am a little unsure how bearing crush enters into this. Low compression is the first thing to check ...not the last
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2011 at 10:58am
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I have a manual from tractor supply. It shows the brass shims to set the bearings back to correct clearance on rods and mains. Is this really necessary? They said the crank turning people like to supply the new bearings. I am a little unsure how bearing crush enters into this.
You need new bearings to match the size the crank is ground to, and the caps should all be mounted and measured before putting a bearing in,to figure out if shims have been removed or need to be added.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: morton(pa)
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2011 at 11:08am
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Just in case you're wondering...
The reason AV gas works better is due to no ethanol. It may also have something to do with being a higher octane. But it's my personal belief non-ethanol gas starts easier. It doesn't gum up and I've heard that it doesn't burn as hot or light off as easy as straight gas.
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