Farm Equipment - Gleaner K2 Service Bulletin

Gleaner K2 Service Bulletin

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Topic: Gleaner K2 Service Bulletin

Posted By: JimWenigOH
Subject: Gleaner K2 Service Bulletin
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2011 at 9:51pm

I would like to get a copy of Service Bulletin #205. Anyone have a copy??

Replies:

Posted By: JimWenigOH
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 5:32am

Remember to look .....

Posted By: Chris/CT
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 6:55am

I'm going down to look for you now......

Posted By: Chris/CT
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 7:21am

Looks like I do not have. I figure your after "IND-205"? It appears the combines start w/ "IND" prefix. I have 204 then jump to 207. Must be to new for my collection of Serv. Bulletins. What does this Bulletin reference?

Posted By: JimWenigOH
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 7:48pm

I'm putting a new clutch assembly in my K2. In my Factory Service Manual, on the page detailing the procedure it is hand written in; "See Bulletin #205". The Service Manual is a 1983. I bought a binder full of Service Bulletins dated from 1966 through 1984 that covers; General, LP and S Bulletins. It did not have the #205 bulletin in it. With all the knowledge on this site I was hoping to maybe come up with a copy. Thanks for checking Chris.

Posted By: Eric[IL]
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2011 at 8:37pm

I have replaced several K2 clutches, clutch pak, input shaft, input shaft bearings, flywheels, & outer/inner sheave housing on both the 1977 shortbacks & 78-81 longbacks. What do you need to know?

Posted By: JimWenigOH
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2011 at 5:42am

Eric, Apparently after the 1983 Service Manual was printed, there was a change/improvement made pertaining to the clutch change-out. The reason I say this is because in the Dealers Service Manual I purchased off eBay, in a hand written note it says; "See Bulletin #205" I just wanted to bennefit from others experiences and apply this "Service Bulletin to my machine before I put it back together. I did check with my local Agco Dealer who was not an A-C Dealer. He checked on his computer, but was unable to find Service Bulletins back that far (30 years). He said he would check more later... He thought possibly it may have been to put Loctite on the shaft when putting the flywheel back on. This coming week if I get a chance I plan to contact some long time A-C Gleaner Dealers to find out what information Service Bulletin #205 contains. It's a mystery right now!

Posted By: Eric[IL]
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2011 at 11:11pm

Sorry for so long getting back on your question. Field work started and I got busy.

I have never applied any lock-tite to any of the flywheel - input shaft connections. I believe the snap ring 71119366 keeps it plenty tight. Make sure its a good fit with new parts.

I have had good success using a 6 button clutch plate @ $125 instead of the cheaper 4 button clutch plate @ $80.85. The 6 button does an excellent job of grabbing and slipping less, if any. Small amounts of slip will eat the flywheel & clutch cover pack.

Usually, a slightly worn flywheel can be resurfaced. But, always use a new input shaft 71131341, bearings , inner sheave hub 71145588.

Find a good reputable AGCO dealer. Use quality AGCO parts and they will last. I hope this is still available through AGCO dealerships - The last K2 clutch I replaced was about 3 years ago. I know some replacement parts are getting harder for dealerships to get. Don't think of using others brands unless your AGCO dealer recommends it. Balance is everything on the clutch system. AGCOs parts are very well balanced. There should be no play on input shaft after assemblying it inside the clutch housing cover. If it has, redo it before proceeding to mount, attach drive sheaves, etc... Check that the input shaft's bearings have a good fit inside the housing as well. Depending on previous rebuilds, prolonged abuse, or extensive delayed repairs, extensive wear can greatly affect the outer sheaves, belt, & spring assembly. Don't over grease the inner hub assembly or excessive grease will accummulate dirt inside the spring canister which can offset balance. Grease the inner hub often, but not excessively and you shouldn't have any trouble.

Posted By: JimWenigOH
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2011 at 6:42am

Thank you for all the information Eric. Why do you say to always use a new input shaft? I have not been able to find any information on Service Bulletin #205 yet. Today I will replace the oil seals in the transmission, and pull the axle shafts from my parts machine. The splines on the transmission end of my shafts showed more wear than I liked, so I'll see what the other machines axles looks like.

Posted By: Eric[IL]
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2011 at 8:23pm

The input shaft bearings are ball-bearing type, not needle type as I feel they should be. From my experience, the forces from the variable speed on the external drive belt (incoming side), plus the flywheel/clutch forces on the output (outgoing side) leaves the input shaft in the middle. The shaft is short, stout, & usually not a problem. But the 2 ball-bearings usually fail or if they have not failed over time, they may become compromised. The money spent in a new clutch plate, clutch pak, & flywheel merits the expense of starting fresh with new bearings & input shaft. Just my experience...

Posted By: JimWenigOH
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2011 at 8:40pm

Thanks, I'll go with experience any day. Do you know what the minium thickness allowed is for the flywheel? The Service Manual just says "replace if wear is indicated"

Posted By: Eric[IL]
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2011 at 9:53pm

No, I don't know a thickness limit on the flywheel for resurfacing. I do know that a fair amount of extra adjustment is available in the clutch linkage on the gleaner. Usually, I look carefully at the flywheel for wear. And, I have give credit where it is due, I have taken advise from an older gleaner dealership mechanic with the following. If it is severely eaten up (3/16"-1/4" or greater), I just replace it and start over with new one. If I can resurface by just removing up to 1/8", then they usually last and good to go. From more personal experience - if the more severely worn flywheels are present, it will lend your attention to the throwout bearing also. Cause someone was riding the clutch extensively... Also, these severly worn machines usually don't have good variable speed sheave movement cause they didn't get greased properly or at all. If the variable speed sheaves/belts are properly maintained, then a quick adjustment on the variable speed lever in the cab makes the machine go the needed speed. If not, then the operator gets a habit of doing the variable speed by simply riding the clutch.... One other cause for combine clutch wear is heavily repeated "stop, shift, n go" in severe muddy clay conditions. In clay mud, if the variable speed belt is not tensioned right, then a poor operator pushes the cab lever forward to make sure its (the belt) tight which inturn speeds everything thru the clutch up. Heat can build rapidly during this action.