D-10 Governor not working
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28009
Printed Date: 01 Mar 2025 at 1:11am
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Topic: D-10 Governor not working
Posted By: D10ACNC
Subject: D-10 Governor not working
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2011 at 8:43pm
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Replies:
Posted By: D10ACNC
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2011 at 8:47pm
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Sorry for that first post. Hit the wrong key. The governor on my D-10 does not seem to function at all when under load. Internally, all seems in order. Anyone have a suggestion of what I should try? |
Posted By: D10ACNC
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 7:06am
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After receiving a "parts manual", I discovered that I was missing a spring (don't remember the name but behind the carburetor). I replaced the spring but it did not improve the performance. Anyone have a suggestion? |
Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 8:35am
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Check out the govenor rod to throttle rod adjustment. Disconnect the two at the joint just behind the thermostat. Move the throttle lever to wide open then move the carb rod to wide open; you should have 1/16-1/8" gap between the two. Bend the govenor rod as necessary to adjust.
Another possibility is the distributor advance spring may be weak ot the advance mechanism is sticky; check by removing the cap and manually turn the rotor post, it should snap back when released. ------------- What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC |
Posted By: D10ACNC
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 1:29pm
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Thanks, Greg, for the response and the help. As you have suggested, I disconnected what I hope are the right two rods (#232337[governor control rod] running from governor under the thermostat & #248431 [carb. link]. I move throttle lever to wide open and the governor control rod moves toward radiator about 2 1/4". I then move by hand the carb. link fully toward the rear of the tractor. At this point, there is 1 3/8" between the carb link and its hole in the control rod. If I read your instructions correctly, I should bend the control rod an awful lot which would probably require heat. Am I understanding what you are saying? As for the distributor spring, it may be weak as the rotor does not fully return to a counter clockwise position. |
Posted By: JoeO(CMO)
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 1:51pm
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what has been done since it last ran good? ------------- |
Posted By: D10ACNC
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 2:07pm
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This problem has existed for quite some time and, other than regular maintenance, nothing was done prior to the failure since I have owned it. |
Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 3:20pm
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D10ACNC
You have the correct joint disconnected. When disconnected and with the throttle wide open (the govenor rod will move forward) one needs to move the carb rod so that the carb is wide open (I think that means pulling the carb rod towards the govenor rod). If this is what you done and you have that much much clearance an adjustment is definately in order for the govenor to work right. I use the end of the throttle rod as a "gage"; it should be within 1 dia of the end from engaging the govenor rod (one has to pull the govenor rod back to engage the joint). I find it best to bend the govenor rod when the radiator is off, I use a small pipe over the end of the govenor rod and a big crescent wrench on the rod near the govenor; have not used a heat wrench, but it would definately assist in the bending. There is not much room to do anything when the radiator and tin is on.
Once adjusted, you should note an improvement in the govenor response. The govenor will be more responsive if the advance mechanism in the distributor is good. ------------- What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC |
Posted By: D10ACNC
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2011 at 3:29pm
| Thanks for that clarification, Greg. It appears that I moved the carb. link in the wrong direction- toward rear of tractor rather than toward the front. I'll have to check that clearance with link pulled forward tonight. Thanks for the help. Wm. |
Posted By: D10ACNC
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2011 at 8:01am
| Good morning, Greg. I pushed the carb. link toward the radiator and measurement is as you described that it should be. I guess the next thing is to try to figure out how to strengthen/replace that spring in the distributor. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2011 at 12:04pm
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With the engine running just above idle, reach behind the carburetor and speed up the engine to feel the governor resistance. If it is very hard to keep the engine speed up with your hand then the governor is doing its job.
The Governor is an RPM limiter or evener only. The governor does not add fuel above the throttle setting and or governor spring tension. With the RPM set point set at the throttle lever, you then start to load the tractor and the RPM's start drop it is a lack of power. This can come from low compression to restricted fuel. It could also be the governor spring is not strong enough to over come the governor weights to increase the RPM's. This being one of the things you said you would check.
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Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2011 at 1:29pm
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D10ACNC
Dick L is right on, check the govenor operation as he decribed, and check your engine compression to be sure the engine is right.
Some other things you may want to look into:
It is also possible that the holes in the govenor weights have been oblonged from rotating on the pins, one needs to remove the govenor cover to verify that the weights have a good fit on the pins. Just rock the weights sideways on the pins; they should not rock sideways on the pins very much, or not at all.
A weak govenor spring can "look" OK and still be off; I do not know how to check the spring.
And finally, the bushings in the govenor cap where the govenor rod comes out may be binding some and preventing a smooth movement of the govenor rod. Maybe gummed up or obrounded from wear by the shaft. If gummed up, remove the small oil feed line and clean it out with brake cleaner and compressed air. ------------- What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC |
Posted By: D10ACNC
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2011 at 8:15am
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Dick L wrote:Posted By: D10ACNC
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2011 at 8:17am
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