wc kill switch
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27596
Printed Date: 28 Feb 2025 at 12:11am
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Topic: wc kill switch
Posted By: abbaschild95
Subject: wc kill switch
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 9:18pm
the mag was taken out and a distributor was put into the wc im working on. the kill switch is now two wires with a latch type switch by the steering wheel... how do i get this back to the original pull type similar to the choke switch?
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Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come!
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Replies:
Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 9:21pm
If your talking about the pull rod to short out the mag it takes a special mag to start with if I'm not mistaken and I don't think there are many around, but maybe they can be converted, I'm not sure? One of my Speed Patrols has that type kill rod and that's the only one I've seen.
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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 9:24pm
so what i get from the switch that is there is that the two wires just need to be connected to allow power to flow... so if i were to have a rod go to the distributor and make it look like the original and just have the wires go down there... would that be sufficient? maybe i should discover what the wires are connected to first...... haha
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Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come!
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Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 9:29pm
Yes, that would probably work, your just supplying power to make it run.
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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 9:39pm
You would need a normally closed switch to supply power to the coil and when you pull the rod it would have to open the switch to kill the engine. The problem with that set up is it would have to stay pulled when you pull it or power would be going to your coil and points all the time, burning up points and running down your battery. It would also be unsafe because anything that made the engine turn could potentially start the engine.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 9:41pm
so youre saying the way it is now is wrong?
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Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come!
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 9:45pm
The magneto kill switch as to be open to run. Shorts the points to stop.
The coil ignition switch has to be closed to run, opens to stop. The magneto switch will stop the engine wired across the points with the distributor ignition, but will fry the coil in short order and run the battery dead. The switches need the opposite action.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 9:47pm
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ok but there is no magneto.. its a distributor... i will go look to see what the wires are exactly really quick...
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Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come!
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 9:59pm
Since you have a coil and a switch, one wire would go to the coil and one to the hot side of the battery. If it is positive ground, the wire supplying power to the switch would come form the negative side of the battery at some point. When the switch is closed, power is sent to the coil.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 10:00pm
ok so after looking at it heres what it is.... there is the switch and one wire that goes to the distributor and one that goes to the ammeter and then to the foot start. i have pictures if needed
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Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come!
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 10:04pm
That is exactly what you need. If you want it to look original, find the mag that has the kill button on the side facing the tractor and put it back original. JMO
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 10:12pm
can i just run an original rod down to the ditrrubutor with the wires down there and do it that way?in another thread i posted, everyone said to keep the distributor...
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Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come!
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Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 10:17pm
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Just have to decide between dist. or keeping it original with a mag. If you want to run the kill rod on the dist. you can run it to a toggle type switch so that when you pull it, it stays in the off position and then you will have to push it to the on position to start it.
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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 10:19pm
there ya go i like the sounds of that.... thanks!
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Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come!
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Posted By: Jim seIl
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2011 at 10:34pm
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I had the complete pull to kill mag and all the linkage on my WC when I got it engine was stuck tryed several things to unstick pulled head and gastank (toclean) and someone needed all of my kill linkage and choke rods too bad they didn't ask first
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