Replacing Manifold and Studs
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26543
Printed Date: 26 Feb 2025 at 7:29pm
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Topic: Replacing Manifold and Studs
Posted By: CORY
Subject: Replacing Manifold and Studs
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 4:47pm
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In the process of replacing a manifold on a D-17 putting all new studs in as well. Can I use anti seize on the maniflold studs in the head or should I use something different?
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Replies:
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 4:49pm
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You can use anti-seize, but I usually don't It's doubtfull it will go another 50 years without being turned, so the chances of it seizing up and breaking off are slim.
JImD
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Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central.
We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2011 at 5:25pm
Maybe... but the next guy(50 years from now) will appreciate the extra time and care you took !!
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: gcalent
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2011 at 8:47am
The anti-seize doesn`t hurt anything, why would you not put in on just in case you do need to pull it off in less than fifty years of service.
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Pullin With AC
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Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2011 at 8:49am
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I always put on anti seize just in case, after you break a couple you start wishing somebody would have had anti seize 50 years ago.
Just my opinion,
Denis
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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Posted By: boscoe
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2011 at 9:39pm
When I am putting a tractor back together I anti-seize just about everything, seriously.
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1959 D 17 gas , 1964 190 gas, 1965 190xt gas AC 4bottom slat plow, 6 row 30in #72 planter Im not getting bigger my cloths are just getting smaller.
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Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2011 at 10:01pm
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Do you have a good way to get the broken off ones out? I need to change one of my WD45s this spring. I'm sure I'll be fighting the studs for a couple days. It always works out that way.
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Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2011 at 11:54pm
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Best way is if you get the manifold off you can heat the head with a torch and drip water on the stud and then use some flat jawed vise grips to turn them out, if that fails you can drill them out until they are real thin and colapse them with a punch.
Just things I have done in the past,
Denis
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1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 8:54am
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Dave, Depends on how much is left stucking out.
If there's much at all above the head, drop a nut on it, and weld the nut in place. The heat really loosens things up. Then twist it out.
If it's flush with the head (the way I always break them), I heat them with a torch till red-hot then drill them. I usually use a starter drill bit to get centered up, then switch to the largest left-handed bit that won't get into the threads. Usually, they spin out with the drill bit. If not, I switch to the dreaded easy-out, which never is. If you don't want to attempt the easy out, I have used a pick to pry out the last bits of the stud, and clean the threads.
JImD
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Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central.
We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 9:09am
One technique I've always had good success with... is to assume that regardless of the end result, you'll end up having a broken, useless stud. That way, the biggest concern is always getting the whole thing out without having to take out a broken piece.
Sometimes 'ya get lucky, and it IS re-useable (use anti-seize).
I warm the area with a propane torch, and then let it cool. For a 50-year-old casting and a rolled-steel stud, you can be assured that the steel's corrosion will be occuring at least in the first 3-4 threads from the surface.
IF you double-nut at the end of the stud, and twist, you'll end up twisting the stud somewhere around halfway down the shank, and in doing so, you'll also LEAN the stud right AT the surface of the casting. This is what causes the stud to break right flush with the head... then you'll either be drilling, or pulling the head, welding a nut to it, and twisting it out.
What I do, after warming and cooling it, is shooting in a little penetrant, then firmly clamping some vise-grips to the stud RIGHT AGAINST the head.
Then, I gently work the vise grips just a little bit each way... back and forth. What happens, is the heat and penetrant have broken up the corrosion's integrity. By working the threads back and forth, it crushes little bits of corrosion in those first three-four threads... and eventually, the whole thing pops free.
Always remember: Some days you're the dog... some days, you're the fire-hydrant.
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Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 1:53pm
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I have most of the stud sticking out. It seams like I wind up breaking them a couple times and welding nuts on to finally get them out. I'm not going to mess with it till spring gets here. My new tire came it today, so Next week I'll take to town and have them swapped. then I can swap the tractor parking. when this one gets to the backof the shop and its not blocking the door I'll get started on it.
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Posted By: JohnS.
Date Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 2:12pm
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When you buy the anti seize ask for the gold colored type.That is for hi temp. applications.
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Posted By: Forestgnome
Date Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 2:18pm
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I've always used Loctite in the heads and anti-sieze on the nuts. That's on automobile engines, of which some have water jackets that are open to the stud hole. Are tractors different?
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