painting
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26284
Printed Date: 26 Feb 2025 at 8:15am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: painting
Posted By: abbaschild95
Subject: painting
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2011 at 10:19pm
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hey guys do you use a 2 stage paint (base then clear coat) or a one stage? need to weigh the pros and cons here.... ------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |
Replies:
Posted By: Brad-MN
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2011 at 11:41pm
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I use a 1 stage eurothane from PPG, their Omni line. I haven't done a clear coat tractor yet; in my opinion shiny is good, but too shiny makes em look fake. ------------- 1930 U 1938 A 1941 WF |
Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2011 at 11:55pm
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does NAPA have a quality paint? thats kind of our local paint dealer... ------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |
Posted By: allis restorer
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2011 at 11:59pm
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Napa's paint is ok, but i prefer Carquest's paint the best, it doesnt fade like others do. Just my opinion. ------------- Go orange or Go home!! |
Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 12:01am
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where can you buy that at? ------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |
Posted By: allis restorer
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 12:05am
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Carquest paint your can get at a Carquest autoparts store. I dont know maybe they dont have them around by you? ------------- Go orange or Go home!! |
Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 12:18am
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no i dont believe so.... im from the southeast part of colorado... ------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |
Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 12:20am
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i mis spoke! yes there are some! do they go by the PO1 or do they just have it labled as allis chalmers? ------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |
Posted By: allis restorer
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 12:21am
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i looked at there store locations and there like at least 20 located around the Denver area. ------------- Go orange or Go home!! |
Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 12:22am
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yes the La junta one would be closest. are they considerably more expensive? im not worried about price i just want to be prepared haha ------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |
Posted By: allis restorer
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 12:31am
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There prices are pretty reasonable, i get alot of things for there, they also carry a fair amount of old tractor parts ------------- Go orange or Go home!! |
Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 3:54am
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I am now using the single stage DuPont in the Nason line.
I find it very forgiving - keep in mind tha it will kill you as quick as PPG if you are suseptable at all to teh cy stuff.
I used to use OMNI but had a problem and as always it was the painter lol. So my solution was to switch to a supplier that I did not have a problem with the product.
I wonder if that stuff will hit 60 bucks a quart this summer :-( .
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Posted By: Brad-MN
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 7:45am
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We have been using Omni's 2 part epoxy primer and have great luck with it. You can cover with one coat and it seems to seal everything really good and accept paint awesome. The one drawback is you have to have it covered with color within 24 hours, or so the experts at PPG say. ------------- 1930 U 1938 A 1941 WF |
Posted By: JPG AUSTRALIA
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 8:10am
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I use a 2-pack that is iso free , its made by a company here called protec,and ppg here also make one that is iso free as well.
i |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 8:10am
| Don't confuse two part with two stage, aint the same thing. Also not all NAPAs have the same paint lines so just saying "NAPA paint" doesnt cut it either. Our NAPA sells PPG. Our Carquest sells Dupont, never been in another Carquest so I dont know if they all sell that brand? One thing I didn't know until just recently is those Sherwin Williams stores you see everywhere have industrial coatings (I thought they just sold house paint, LOL.) And they have some pretty decent two part systems for decent prices. Just dont expect them to you know what Perisan #1 orange is unless the salesman is wearing an A-C cap. You need to take them a color chip to match. It is not going to be long before none of this is available to us due to EPA regs and we will have to use water borne base color coats and VOC clears, this is what is called a two stage system. |
Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 8:12am
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you guys dont use a sealer. sorry no question marks on my phone.. ------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 9:00am
| The expoxy primer that Brad mentioned can be used as a sealer by simply adding reducer to the mix. Not sure if it is listed on the P sheet for Omni but the higher end DPLF epoxy primer is listed that way. I have never seen the need for a seperate sealer when using a two part epoxy primer reduced. |
Posted By: Brad-MN
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 9:15am
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I tried to use a reducer in conjuction with the Omni epoxy primer and didn't really care for the results. I prefer to use it as recommended with just the primer and catalyst in a 2 to 1 ratio. With the reducer it didn't seem to cover as well. I have it down pretty good I think, getting good coverage in basically 1 primer coat with only a few touch ups needed after some inspection.
Butch, have you tried the enviro line from PPG, which is their water borne system? I have heard they had some trouble in the past, but just watched a hot rod show a couple weekends ago and they were using the PPG water borne system and it seemed to cover good and be just as easy to spray as the solvent paint. I thought about giving it a try as the cost has come down to a more reasonable amount compared to the solvent paint. I'd really llike to get away from all the solvents to save myself misery down the road. ------------- 1930 U 1938 A 1941 WF |
Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 9:35am
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so first go at it with a coat of sandable primer?? sand between the first and second coats and use the second coat as the sealer? or get a different kind of primer completely? ------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 9:39am
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Hey Brad,
It takes very little reducer to make the transformation on the epoxy primers. Cant remember the P sheet info as I do it by eyeball now. Seems to me its like 20-1. In coverage you cant tell the differance when done correctly.
We will al be using either old stock, or water bourne in just a few short years.
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Posted By: NC Bruce
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 9:56am
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When the painter finished my AC175 last summer, he used the CarQuest Paint too. I believe He just used the Acrylic Enamel 5.0, plus; hardener, thinner, cream enamel, reducer, primer, sandpaper & putty & supplies...costs over $500.Drop me an Email and I'll send you the CarQuest item #'s, as mine was
 the AC P O #2 ( ppg#60396). The AC Persion Orange #1 ( ppg# 60080), I believe that's correct.
*Someone had said that the newer AC Corporate Orange('78 and up) was same mixture as Dupont ('75 Corvette) Flame Red....I'm sure the AC Painters on this web site could tell you.
What AC Tractor / model are you painting? LOL!
PS. In photo above look just above tractor grill, and Chimney Rock (Last of Mohicans movie), and Lake Lure(Dirty Dancing movie) are located, western NC
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Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 9:59am
OK I am into being technical today so here we go;
What you need to do is to forget the term "sandable primer" as it is a misnomer. Now before you call foul I know it is sold in spray cans but only because people demand it. For the reasons they are used (and to get best results) primers and surfacers must be appled seperately. If your spray bomb "sandable primer" sands easily it has very poor qualities as primer and conversly if it has good priming qualities it isnt going to sand easy. First you prime, then you apply what is called surfacer. The laquer surfacers have several very redeeming qualities. 1. They are relatively cheap. 2. They apply blindfolded 3. whats left in the gun you pour back into the can. 4. they sand like majic dry or wet. One you get things leveled out you put on one more coat, sand enough to scuff but leave one color, and paint. Some will throw another coat of epoxy primer over the surfacer but its not needed.
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abbaschild95 wrote:Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 10:17am
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thank you butch! thats exactly what i needed! and i am painting a WC. kind of a practice tractor of sorts ------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |
Posted By: Brad-MN
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 10:29am
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Butch, what you describe is a third step that I have never done. I have always went with a primer coat and then on to multiple layers of paint to suit my coverage and depth preferences in the color stage. I have never had a problem with bonding primer, whether it's an epoxy or sandable sealer, to my color coat. Should I be using a lacquer surfacer in between? ------------- 1930 U 1938 A 1941 WF |
Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 10:33am
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also when sanding you use a 180 or bigger? hand block sander or electric palm?? what is more effective? ------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 11:58am
| Brad The surfacer has nothing to do with bonding, its all about getting things leveled out and smooth. It can be done with spoons, hammers and heat on the metal if a person has those skills and patiance, I have neither. It can also be done when sanding the putty but its lots easier and quicker to give the metal a couple coats of surfacer and let it dry for an hour and sand. The first time used it will amaze by how easily it sands. Properly done the surface will feel as smooth as a new born baby's butt. I only can wish I was good enough with metal to go without it! You dont use it on castings and often dont need it on new repro sheet metal, depends on how well the maker knows his craft. |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 12:12pm
Another way to eliminate having to do all this is to use crappy paint or apply it wrong or make sure there is lots of dirt on the surface so there is no shine, then it makes no differance LOL. The battle is never ending, the better you can paint the better body man you need to be.
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Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 4:04pm
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ill post pictures of what i have to work with in a little bit then go from there maybe? ------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |
Posted By: BLee Mn
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 4:47pm
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i always say , anbody can paint, its the prep work that takes time, patience and skill ------------- Cowboy UP |
Posted By: Brad-MN
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 4:53pm
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I guess I was more thinking about castings and such, rather than sheet metal. I spend alot of time either making new sheet metal or pounding and welding and grinding any sheet metal defects so I don't have to spend the time with a surfacer and sanding. I now see where you're headed Butch, thanks for the insight though, it may be something I use in the future on a problem piece that I don't have the time, patience or skill to do the metal work on. ------------- 1930 U 1938 A 1941 WF |
Posted By: BLee Mn
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 5:09pm
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I should add i dont have a lot of patience either , i sum times take a hood or similar in too my bodyshop buddy and have them get it ready for paint. what i was tryin to say was it takes a lot of time and effort to get a smooth and even surface ready for paint, but no matter how good you lay down the paint if you have a rough, curvy or pitted surface you will still have that after you paint ------------- Cowboy UP |
Posted By: chllngr528
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 5:23pm
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I have used napa paints before and I like them. I shot a few different colors of the single stage acrylic urethane and I liked them. They are definatly not "show quality" paints but for painting tractors or old trucks they worked great for me. But remember they don't last as long as base coat clear coat paint jobs. I painted a 83 dodge pick-up, a small case tractor, a wheel horse GT, and a old hyster forklift with napa paints. Best advice I can say is to read up on the paint your going to buy and see what primers and sealers they recommend. Certain paints will only adhere to certain primers/ sealers etc. When I painted my old dodge I shot it charcoal gray and had to spray it with a sealer because I didn't take it down to bare metal. I also painted a cub for someone with the valspar paint from TSC. I didn't add any hardener to the paint just naptha thinner and it came out pretty nice.
One more thing you probably already know but acyrlic urethane (all paints really) is some nasty stuff. Get a decent respirator
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Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 6:29pm
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alright i believe ive decided to go with a base and clear coat. ill ask more questions at the car quest. they will know specifics on the paint... thanks guys!!
------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |
Posted By: Bill_MN
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 8:10pm
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I have used PPG urethane a few times with excellent results. PPG's web site showed PPG distributors in Pueblo, Lamar, and Trinidad to name a few in your part of the state. ------------- 1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow |
Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 8:14pm
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lamar? interesting ill have to look into that... ------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |
Posted By: Zyta
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 8:17pm
| Question...does anyone ever use Ago's Acrylic Enamel "Corporate Orange" that they sell by the Quarts & Gallons. If you use a good primer is this paint any good? |
Posted By: Bill_MN
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 8:24pm
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Machine Supply Company, 201 N 2nd Street Lamar, can't guarantee if they retail paint or if it's more an industrial supply outfit but give it a shot ------------- 1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow |
Posted By: abbaschild95
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 8:27pm
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i will thank you sir! ------------- Great-granfather's WC---- hopefully many more to come! |