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engine rebuild question

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26270
Printed Date: 31 Jul 2025 at 7:59am
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Topic: engine rebuild question
Posted By: LouSWPA
Subject: engine rebuild question
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2011 at 8:35pm
How much "out of flat"  can one get away with when putting a straight edge cross ways on top of the (WD-45) block?
is there any sealer between the block and the sleeve at the top?
any thing to look out for or be careful of when assembling engine?
any hints/tips/slick way of doing any particular step that may otherwise cause be to create new words?
Also, does anyone sell just a sleeve/piston/piston ring kit
Thanks


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I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27



Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2011 at 9:30pm
Good question Lou. I can't wait to hear some answers. I would guess 2-3 thousands would be a lot beings you need .002 stand out for the sleeves.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: LouSWPA
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 11:33am
This project is suffering from sever mission creep!

-------------
I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27


Posted By: sandylakeimplement
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 12:54pm
Depends on where you measure the gap. A long progressive "sway" resulting in about .008 or less would be OK. A quick dip is another matter. No sealer at top of sleeves. Make sure you position the wrist pins properly in the piston/rod clamp. Bill

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Sandy Lake Implement
Sandy Lake, PA
724-376-2489
www.sandylakeimp.com
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Posted By: Tony.Or
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 1:02pm
Lou !!  I can set you up   with the sleeve kits  only, no bearings  or  gaskets.
  Tony    http://www.tonystractors.com - www.tonystractors.com       1-877-602-3994    


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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 1:29pm
Bill, If I understood the question right he was asking about side to side out of flat. Length ways I could see a long progressive curve but side to side I would think would be different.

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: LouSWPA
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 3:12pm
No, Charlie, I'm speaking of the measurement at the center of the block when a straight edge is placed diagonally across the top of the block SW to NE and then SE to NW

-------------
I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27


Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 8:51pm
 
  
 
   
I put the straight edge on the head or block, put a piece of newspaper under the straight edge and if the newspaper is removed very easily the head or block might need planning.
 
  No sealer is used on the cylinders lip.
 
  Prepare oil pan and valve cover, if bolt holes or lips are distorted from over tightening straighten them.
 
  If the crank is out don't forget to put the little L shaped gaskets in under the rear main bearing cap, put some Permatex #2 on them. I have seen generic sets that didn't have them in the kit.
 
  If the end gaskets for the oil pan are cork soak them in hot water just before installation and use  Prematex on them. Don't cut them off, they will compress as you tighten the oil pan. The gasket set might have the clips to hold these gaskets in place, most generic kits don't have them.
 
  Don't exchange the #2 & #3 connecting rods, they are offset.
 
  Check the bearing clearnce with plastic gauge, .003 to .004.
 
   Hopes this helps.
 
 
 


Posted By: LouSWPA
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 10:38pm
Originally posted by nella(Pa) nella(Pa) wrote:

 
  
 
   
I put the straight edge on the head or block, put a piece of newspaper under the straight edge and if the newspaper is removed very easily the head or block might need planning.
 
  No sealer is used on the cylinders lip.
 
  Prepare oil pan and valve cover, if bolt holes or lips are distorted from over tightening straighten them.
 
  If the crank is out don't forget to put the little L shaped gaskets in under the rear main bearing cap, put some Permatex #2 on them. I have seen generic sets that didn't have them in the kit.
 
  If the end gaskets for the oil pan are cork soak them in hot water just before installation and use  Prematex on them. Don't cut them off, they will compress as you tighten the oil pan. The gasket set might have the clips to hold these gaskets in place, most generic kits don't have them.
 
  Don't exchange the #2 & #3 connecting rods, they are offset.
 
  Check the bearing clearnce with plastic gauge, .003 to .004.
 
   Hopes this helps.
 
 
 
yes, it does.....'specially about the 2/3 rods!

-------------
I am still confident of this;
I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living.
Wait for the Lord;
be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2011 at 10:52pm
Lou, don't use the whole newspaper. One sheet is enough since it's about .0025 thick. Hope this helps. LMAO

-------------
http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 7:23am
 
 
 
Good Morning Lou,
  When you put in the connecting rods in, there is one side that is suppose to be facing the cam shaft, I think it is the side with the numbers on them. It has been a long time since I overhauled one(30-35 yrs). Boy, is that enough to give you a senior moment. 
 
You could also mike the crank journals for being out of round if you like.
 
  After you put the o rings on the bottom of the sleeves slip a round screwdriver under the o ring and go around the cylinder a few times to get out any twists that might be in the o ring. I always lubricated and sealed them with a stiff water pump grease before I  put the sleeve in the block.
 
  Keep us posted on your progress or any questions. I see that this project has mission creep, I usually come your way to kayak the Youghiogheny once or twice a year and if conditions permit I would gladly stop by and give you a hand.



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