getting grease out of the brake housing
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26041
Printed Date: 26 Feb 2025 at 12:46am
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Topic: getting grease out of the brake housing
Posted By: Tim in arkansas
Subject: getting grease out of the brake housing
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2011 at 7:47pm
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I took the brakes out of the 1940 Allis B today it has a lot of grease and crap in it is there something that can be used to get all the crap out I am using a long handle screwdriver to get what I can see out any ideas? thanks Tim ------------- Allis Chalmers fan from Arkansas |
Replies:
Posted By: MBolton
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 9:47am
| Just keep digging and scraping then wash it out with some solvent, let dry and put her back together. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 10:04am
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Support the rear of the tractor and remove one rear wheel. Now remove the final drive housing and clean things up. Replace the seals in the differential where the shaft comes out and the seal in the final where the shaft goes in. Leaking seals is where the grease comes form. Brakes are marginal when new, you don't need lubricant on them as soon as you replace them. JMO Charlie
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 10:06am
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I used an 'engine cleaning' gun. Basically an air gun with suction feed for fluid. It'll suck up 'gunk' or other degreaser, and press of a button, you get a good blast to smash the grease down into liquid! You MUST wear glasses, maybe drape the openings and use a big tray underneath to get the liquid sludge.
It's one of those ,'use it once in a blue moon tools'..also good for spraying cherry tress with dormant oil spray. ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 6:13pm
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I used Gunk brand spray on engine degreaser on the bell housing of my D17D that had a severe rear main oil leak. I used my power washer to spray it off. Worked very well. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2011 at 6:21pm
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removing the whole final drive assembly (4 bolts) saves you a lot of effort and really is the way to go. Like they say it lets you look everything over and replace seals...
------------- 1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless |
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2011 at 8:52am
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I always replace the entire band, and do not re-use it. So I can take the old band, and cut off the loop section from one side. Now you have a custom-made, custom-curved scraper. Wedge that sucker in there, and pull it out with a nice clod of goo. Repeat until the old band will pass all the way through with no resistance. Then use brake parts cleaner to dry everything out.
Reinstall band. The above posts to have a valid point that you need to resolve where the oil came from. My experience, is that it is such a tiny leak, my customers just want the brakes fixed and the access hole cleaned out. Rats and mud-dobbers plug every hole around here.
JimD ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2011 at 9:31am
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Never reuse an old brake band???
Then you go from a 30 dollar parts cost to close to or over a 100 dollar parts cost.
Not from my pocket book! Ain't that hard to pull loops and all if you go about the right way. I have been able to reline most bands. Some are rusted in the henge to where they can't be reused but you sure can not make that judgment after cutting off one end.
If you pull the final drive you can pull the brake band off the drum and out the opening rather than pulling it us thru the top.
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Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2011 at 9:51am
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Dick, I think you msunderstood me. I cut the loop off after pulling the band. Out of 20 or so jobs I've one, I think I had 1 band that was usable enough to have my name on it. All the others had rusted at the hinge since the drain was plugged, or the adjusting bolt was damaged. Don't forget that my customers have to pay me for my time to rivet the new pads back on. 1 hr to clean and rivit the pads back on (both sets) makes those $30 pads now $80. Or at $45/side $90 gets you new bands with adjusting bolts. I sell plenty each way. And I refund quite a few pads when the customer gets their band out and realizes they are shot. So they end up paying frieght (though it's not much) for the pads 2 times and then buy the bands anyway. As for pulling them, I use a come-along to ratchet them out. Usualy grabs 1/2 the junk onthe way out. ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2011 at 12:28pm
Ya I misunderstood about that! I thought it was asking on how to do it his own self. I have pulled a few bands out the top and also have taken a few out thru the transmission end of the final drive after it was removed. With it removed you can really get it clean and the new band can go back in when your done sooo much easier.
  I love clean when it comes to parts. You wouldn't think I loved clean if you got a look at my Carharts.
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