Print Page | Close Window

CA seat problem

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25761
Printed Date: 25 Feb 2025 at 11:54am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: CA seat problem
Posted By: porky
Subject: CA seat problem
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 6:45pm
 Greetings, I am new to the forum but have been lurking for some time. I have a 1954 CA with a seat problem. The bolts that connect the bottom of the seat bracket to the torque tube are sheared. How long are they and do the holes go all the way through the casting?  I am considering options to try and extract or drill and tap the holes and do not want to get metal shavings in the transmission. One bolt is sheared about 3 threads above the casting, the other about 6. 
 
The bracket is also broken on one side but I think I can weld it. 
 
The bushing in the bracket was stuck to the bracket and the seat support bar was stuck to the bolt, the whole assembly was seized up and floating loosely on the bolts which were 1/2 inch or more up from being snugged down properly. I know that is what broke the bracket and suspect it didn't help the bolts any.
 
Any advice/info will be appreciated.



Replies:
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 6:48pm
The bolts don't go all the way through into the trans. The seat bushing is available from Steiner Tractor Parts.

-------------
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: porky
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 7:02pm
Thanks Brian.
 
I'll check on the bushing and figure there must be a hollow spot under those bolts unless someone stuck extra long bolts in the holes. Any idea about how deep those holes should be?


Posted By: mnoonan-NEWI
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 7:28pm
Porky,
If you soak the seat bolts good with Kroil or your favorite rust remover product for a couple of days then weld a nut to the portion of the bolts that sticks above the casting, then maybe you could just turn them out with wrench.
Good luck,
Mike


-------------
AC CA, Ferguson TO-20, Ford NAA, M-M BG, AC #3 Mower, SC Plow, PH Digger, AC 720's with Ark 700 loader & Brantly Backhoe, "Mini B" w/flathead Ford V8


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 7:37pm
Could be somebody put too long of a bolt in there and bottomed the bolts out. That might add to the frustration of extracting them. I would find 2 washers that will fit fairly close to the bolts. Weld a washer to one bolt and then weld a nut to the washer. Start backing it off as it cools. If this works all you have to do is chase the threads and find the proper length bolt to replace them.

-------------
http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: porky
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 8:41pm
Yea, they are soaking now and had been all day before popping them. I will probably try welding and backing them out after letting them soak all week. It will be the weekend before I can get back to it. Thanks guys.


Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 9:13pm
I've had good luck with the washer, then nut approach....give it a couple of minutes and the heat does wonders.

-------------
ALLIS EXPRESS!
This year:


Posted By: SteveC(NS)
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2011 at 6:56am
Porky, I went out to the tractor shed and measured the depth of the bolt holes.
Left one was 1 9/16 and the right was 1 3/8. There was some crud at the bottom, I tried to scratch through it with my vernier and may not have gotten through it all (felt like it) so that may explain the difference. Anyway that should give you a pretty good idea if the "nut weld" procedure doesn't work (and it always has , for me) you should be good to drill to those depths. And, as you break through you should feel the clunk as your bit hits the bottom, unless the broken bolts are really bottomed ( my god I do go on!)


Posted By: porky
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2011 at 7:02pm
Steve:
 
Thanks for checking the depth on those holes. I hope I won't have to drill but will feel better knowing a safe depth. Knowing my luck they are bottomed out but I am hoping the weld trick will work. At  least they left a good stub to weld to.



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net