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D17 Power Divider removal?

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25402
Printed Date: 25 Feb 2025 at 6:00am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: D17 Power Divider removal?
Posted By: Unstylish
Subject: D17 Power Divider removal?
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2011 at 8:06pm
I want to pull my d17 in the lighter classes. How do I go about removing my Power Divider andstraight shafting it?

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The problem with reading MLPANKEYS posts, is that they dont make boots that tall.



Replies:
Posted By: Unstylish
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 12:38pm
BUMP



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The problem with reading MLPANKEYS posts, is that they dont make boots that tall.


Posted By: Dans 7080
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 12:45pm
Im sure theres a way it can be done. Id say it would be a fairley rough project. Why not just put the power director in high range and take the shifter off of it. Its only held on by a set screw.


Posted By: Gary in da UP
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 12:55pm
?? why would want to give away 4 forward speeds? Lots of easier places to trim the fat.


Posted By: Unstylish
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 1:16pm
well, I dont know much about Power Dividers..I came from the MM world where Ampli Torques sucked...I gave yours a good looking over in the pics, and decided that I need one about 200 lbs lighter..and the fat is there to trim...I just gotta learn. Will the power dividers hold? I have about a 75-80 HP motor I can throw in it for now, and I can run about 2250 RPMS...I was thinking about gutting the front end too...What gear did your pull in?

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The problem with reading MLPANKEYS posts, is that they dont make boots that tall.


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 1:19pm
it will hold it.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Gary in da UP
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 1:27pm
 low 2nd, low 3rd, hi 2nd .  low 2nd when pulling 3.5 mph speed limit 4500, 5500 and up.,  In Canada - no speed limit 4500 I have pulled in hi 3rd and spun, but their tracks get loose fairly fast.16.9x38's would probably be the ticket there in low 2nd or hi 1st.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 4:46pm
Split the tractor and use a 1000RPM PTO coupler of some kind to couple tranny input shaft to the direct (high side) shaft. Wanna lose more weight??? then yank out all the intermediate and PTO gears and hydraulic pump. I've got a D17 down to 4000 lbs with 15.5 x 38's. ..and that's with all that stuff still in it.


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 9:35pm
Put sealed bearings on torque tube shaft and remove all torque tube oil and covers. Remove rear lift cover , pto shaft and replace with alum. cover. MACK


Posted By: Unstylish
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2011 at 5:47am
I know Kurt Hamel his in 3750, and he weighted 180 or so (if I remember)but he also had rear aluminum. I 'd be happy being able to pull it in 4000, 4250 on up, but I weigh 260. At this point its easier to take weight off the tractor, then my :)

What I really want is to pull 3.0 and 3.5 competitively in 4500, 5Kand 5500 against my buddies 298 cube IH M. It dynoed about 70, and it dont lug too well, so I think I can make a high compression 260 hang in there...

Whaddya think?


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The problem with reading MLPANKEYS posts, is that they dont make boots that tall.


Posted By: gcalent
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2011 at 1:53pm
Mine weighs in about 4250 with me on it at 300#, still have the gears in the torque housing and the power director clutch in it with a working PTO. There is a lot of weight to get before you need to get too far inside.
You can remove the clutch though, years ago in a super stock 180 (when you had to use real tractors) took the power director out and coupled the high range shafts together with a chain coupling (two sprockets with a double wrap roller chain) you can purchase at any good industrial supplier.


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Pullin With AC



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