D15/D17/D19 Diesel rebuild questions
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23408
Printed Date: 22 Feb 2025 at 3:21am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D15/D17/D19 Diesel rebuild questions
Posted By: TerryMN
Subject: D15/D17/D19 Diesel rebuild questions
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 11:11am
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Guys,
I am working on rebuilding a D15 diesel engine. I purchased a NOS engine kit off ebay for $100. Pretty good deal. Well it turns out it was Probaly left over engine parts from a dealership. The guy that sold it opened one box marked D17D on it. He sold it as a D17 kit minus 2 sleeve/piston assemblies. 2 years later I am rebuilding the engine. I find out that the other 3 sleeve piston assemblies are marked D19D. I could see no difference between any of the parts between the D17 kit and the D19 kit. Some one on here talked about compersson of a D19 being lower. The pistons were the same, pin bores, rings , everything. But When I installed the sleeves the 3 marked D19 stand out .024. the sleeve kit for the D17 stands out .004. The book says the sleeve stand out should be -.002 to + .002. I have not tried it yet but I think when I bolt the sleeve down it will go from .004 to .002. If they were at the -.002 would they start better? And as for the .024 D19 sleeves any buddy ever have some of the material taken off of a sleeve or should I just buy the right ones. Thanks for any help. Terry
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Replies:
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 11:24am
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I am far from an expert but Allis did sell sleeves with thicker top flanges so a person with an eroded block could simply lower the counter bores to get back to good metal. Sounds like you have a set of those. I can think of no reason why they could not be chucked up in a lathe and turn the proper amount from the flanges. It would be removed from the bottom, not he top. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 11:24am
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If the sleeves are below the deck(-.002) you might easily blow a head gasket. Measure the distance from the top of the piston to the wrist pin hole on all of your pistons to make sure that is the same. I believe I read on this forum that Allis made sleeves available for blocks that needed the c'bores recut. Your 19 sleeves may be just that. If the sleeve moves by bolting it down there is something wrong. All c'bores need to be flat and clean and you might check that the square corner of the bottom edge of the sleeve does not contact the corner of the c'bore.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 11:26am
Beat ya Charlie, LOL
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CTuckerNWIL wrote:Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 11:49am
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I'm just slow at typing Butch. Oh and my Wild Blue is slower than dial-up. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: skipwelte
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 12:06pm
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Measure the sleeve flanges with micometer. they should be the same, if not then you could have the thicker ones cut on a lathe to match the thinner one. You should bolt the sleeves down with bolts and washers to make sure they are seated before measuring the standout. HTH |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 12:44pm
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The D17D 262 and 175 in a D15 use the same pistons and sleeves. The 175 is simply a 262 missing 2 cyls. Like the others say, sleeve standout needs to be .002 above the deck of the block. The pistons should stand above the deck of the block .002 to .029. according to the original blueprints. The sleeves sticking out .024 sound like the .020 thicker flange sleeves that A-C offered to fix a counter bore problem. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: TerryMN
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 4:00pm
| I think you guys are right I must have 3 of the + .020 sleeves for the counter bore repair if done. My counter bores are good. I do need to bolt the sleeves down yet and measure them really good. I have a place that is going to look at the sleeves to see if they can take off .020. So It would be better to have the plus .002 as far as the head gasket goes. Would .002 affect startingif you where lo would it start better? Some one awhile back had a D17D that fire right up. I can remeber what was done there or if it was right. I measured everything on the pistons and rings they are the same. I have the head rebuilt already. I really want to hear it run. Brian once my sleeves are in and I have .002 above the block deck how high will the piston come above the sleeve? Or is there a spec on that your thinking it should be .002-.029? Thanks for the help. |
Posted By: skipwelte
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 4:34pm
| I put new sleeves and pistons in my D17 D a few years ago, it starts real good. I did a rering job on my D19 D the following year, it doesnt start so good. I put new sleeves and pistons in my WD45 D and new injector tips, it starts real good. If ya do new parts, youll have good starting, if ya just ring it, not so good as the compression wont be as good. Good luck. |
Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2011 at 5:39pm
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Just some things I learned after I rebuilt my 262. If you replaced the valve seats by cutting them out and didn't use the raised ones or cut down the valves too much to seat them you will losse compresion. You would be surprised how much this will effect the cranking. After you seat the sleeves put the pistons in without rings. The pistons should have a top standout clearance,(I don't recall what it is) but if you don't have enough you'll need to deck the block down to gain this, then adjust the sleeve standout clearance.
Then rebuilt tips and the charge/transfer pump in the injector pump needs to be in good shape. At cranking speeds the transfer pump needs to push fuel into the high pressure section or it'll never get fuel pressure to fire the nozzels.
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Posted By: DonDittmar
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2011 at 6:40am
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No since in re-inventing the wheel here. If the sleeve sticks up above the deck too much you can do one of 2 things: 1) cut the couter-bore until stand out is correct
2) chuck the sleeves in a lathe and machine the top untill stand out is correct....long story short I had to do this on my D19D ------------- Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity" 1968 D15D,1962 D19D Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start |
Posted By: Nathan (SD)
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2011 at 8:22am
| I would do the block instead of the sleeve. |