Got the IB running
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23168
Printed Date: 21 Feb 2025 at 12:47pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Got the IB running
Posted By: RyanTN
Subject: Got the IB running
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2010 at 11:10pm
Well she came back to life today, after three years ("or so") of not running.
Here's what it took to get it running along with some of the fun I encountered along the way.
1. The rear wheels were locked when I first went to move it. I removed the drain plug and nothing came out. After building a little fire in my tailgate BBQ, I drained a lot of water out of it. Freed everything up.
2. The gas tank, sediment bowl, fuel line and carburetor were all full of varnish and plugged up. Cleaned it all out, rebuilt the carb and then needed to plug a few pinhole leaks in the tank.
3. Needed to fabricate a switch for the Autolite starter, turned the armature and put new brushes in there while I had it off. Put in a new battery and heavy cables.
4. I had no spark what so ever at the magneto. I installed new plugs, and wires. Then dug into the magneto. There was a huge ants nest in the lower cap (with live ants)! They got in through the drain holes. Every electrical contact was green, crusted and fuzzy. I cleaned that all up and replaced the points and condensor. I had that thing apart and back together three times before I figured out that I was only loading the impulse spring half a turn and not 3/4. Finally got a nice blue spark.
5. The final challenge was getting gas to the plugs. I set all the valves and cleaned up the manifold and replaced the gasket. The cylinders were so dry from sitting that they wouldn't build compression or vacuum. After trying a few things, I finally ended up pouring some oil in the cylinders and working it in. I cleaned out the excess and it starts after two cranks or one bump of the starter!
The next tasks will be to install new rubber and refurbish the rims. I'm thinking about going with turf tires even though this tractor was originally a highway mower. I plan to try the mounting and dismounting myself for the first time. Well, I've done passenger cars tires before. Then wiring and charging system I suppose. I am glad to be moving back to my place this summer after a two year tour on the staff at the Military Academy at West Point, NY. I will be able to play with my tractors much more often!
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Replies:
Posted By: AllisChalmers37
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2010 at 11:26pm
VERY NICE JOB!! From the looks of the pictures of it grown up I thought it would take a LOT more than that to get her going. COGRATS!!
------------- 1937 WC, 1950 CA, 1959 D14, 1967 190XT, 2006 Ram 3500
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Posted By: Jacob (WI,ND)
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2011 at 8:04am
Nice! Good work, The IB will be good as new in no time. I find it funny that the IB's always have the strangest combinations of colors over the years. Will this one be orange or yellow when done? Looks like it was yellow huh?
As for dismounting and mounting the tires, unless you have all the professional equipment and knowhow, just bring it to the tire guys. And this is coming from an al-cheepo, LOL! Dad and I are slowly working on fixing the rear rims on my WD, and we needed the last one dismounted. (the other and a spare for patches is already dismounted). We tried for a while to see if we could break the bead using Dads D15 II to drive up on the tire ( on the ground) with its rear tire and we couldn't even get it to break a little. Stuck and rusty, and some fluid still in the rim (that was probably most of our problem, If we had drained it all, we might have been more successful) So we ended up bringing it to the tire shop, and they had it dismounted for us in no time, and it only cost like 10 bucks. Well worth the money in my book! We have dismounted our own front tires before, and they were a struggle as well. Good luck, and let us know how it works for you!
------------- Jacob Swanson 1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Posted By: RyanTN
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2011 at 2:04pm
Thanks guys. Jacob, it looks like this one left the factory Persian Orange #1, and I plan to paint it PO1 too. It has been painted at least two different shades of yellow over the years. It belonged to the town of Cannan, NY until 1979.
As for the tires, I know I'm asking for frustration but I plan to at least try. If I run into trouble, I can always take them to town. The nearest place I could find to do tractor tires is about 25 miles away (one way), and I let them take advantage of me a few years ago when I was new to the community. I brought by two B rears (with new tires and tubes) and got an estimate of $75 to remove the old tires, install the new, and repair a rust hole in one rim. I went by the next day at the agreed time and "they hadn't gotten to them yet". No, problem I said, but I made the mistake of "going in my town clothes". It was obvious that I was a hobbyist and not a farmer. Well the next day my tires were ready, but the manager said his estimate was way off. There was a lot more work to get them ready. Also, he forgot to mention the $24 dollar (each) tire disposal fee. He said it took 7 cans of spray paint at $6.99 each (but it's all mostly the inside) and there was another hour of labor than he thought. I paid, but told him I would have appreciated a call first. Decided then and there, I would find another tire shop.
Right now, I have four rears to change, four fronts, and four trailer tires. I am going to get one of those hand operated changers for the fronts. If I can't get the rears to work, I can take them to another place I heard good things about that is just a little farther.
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Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2011 at 3:05pm
Ryan, looks like you have it headed the right way. Hope all turns out well with your restoration. Tracy Martin
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Posted By: Bob-Maine
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2011 at 7:17pm
Ryan, It's always a struggle but I do most of my own tire demounting and mounting. I have found the best way to break a bead loose is to set the tire under a heavy load, like a truck bumper or a tractor drawbar, and set a hydraulic jack ( I use a 12 ton) with the base of the jack on the tire and just clearing the rim. Pump up the jack with the top bearing on the object over it. Usually have to work your way around the rim until it breaks loose.
Also, some bead lube is important when inflating a tire. sometimes the bead doesn't want to seat and the lube helps it slide into place. Never inflate over the max shown on the sidewall. My biggest challenge is getting the new tire mounted without pinching the tube and finding that it leaks after mounting. I just did a rear tire on my G and had to mount it twice. Good luck. Bob@allisdowneast
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Posted By: Jacob (WI,ND)
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2011 at 7:50pm
RyanTN wrote:
Thanks guys. Jacob, it looks like this one left the factory Persian Orange #1, and I plan to paint it PO1 too. It has been painted at least two different shades of yellow over the years. It belonged to the town of Cannan, NY until 1979.
As for the tires, I know I'm asking for frustration but I plan to at least try. If I run into trouble, I can always take them to town. The nearest place I could find to do tractor tires is about 25 miles away (one way), and I let them take advantage of me a few years ago when I was new to the community. I brought by two B rears (with new tires and tubes) and got an estimate of $75 to remove the old tires, install the new, and repair a rust hole in one rim. I went by the next day at the agreed time and "they hadn't gotten to them yet". No, problem I said, but I made the mistake of "going in my town clothes". It was obvious that I was a hobbyist and not a farmer. Well the next day my tires were ready, but the manager said his estimate was way off. There was a lot more work to get them ready. Also, he forgot to mention the $24 dollar (each) tire disposal fee. He said it took 7 cans of spray paint at $6.99 each (but it's all mostly the inside) and there was another hour of labor than he thought. I paid, but told him I would have appreciated a call first. Decided then and there, I would find another tire shop.
Right now, I have four rears to change, four fronts, and four trailer tires. I am going to get one of those hand operated changers for the fronts. If I can't get the rears to work, I can take them to another place I heard good things about that is just a little farther. |
Ah man, that stinks! I can understand why you want to try yourself now. I guess we're lucky here with a fairly good tire shop in town. The lady at the counter has even figured out that I am the Allis tractor guy with "another project" LOL! What kind of hand operated changers are you talking about? I'm always looking to learn. Good luck, and keep us posted.
------------- Jacob Swanson 1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Posted By: RyanTN
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2011 at 8:46pm
Bob-I just read about using a jack earlier today. I was planning to use the procedure at the below link except for the expensive bead breaker. Looks like I can get spoons and irons fairly reasonably. I thought I would use my running tractor to drive over the dismounting tire to break the bead if all else failed:
Link: http://www.gemplers.com/tech/tchange.htm - http://www.gemplers.com/tech/tchange.htm
Jacob, for the fronts, I plan to use this tool at the below link. It is about $35 on sale. My Dad says that at the first service station he worked in, this was all they had. He bought one too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-tire-changer-34542.html - http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-tire-changer-34542.html
Anyone else have thoughts? I thought about starting a tire changing thread.
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Posted By: pumpkin man
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2011 at 9:23pm
I bought a tire changer from Harbor Freight best $ 35 I ever spent Also check Northen Tool For tire Irons Ect. The slide Hammer Beed Bracker is a must have tool old mountings Do your own repairs you could of bought all tools for what you paid that CR**k
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