7050 Engine Swap Questions
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22649
Printed Date: 22 Feb 2025 at 3:18am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7050 Engine Swap Questions
Posted By: nemesis
Subject: 7050 Engine Swap Questions
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2010 at 9:48am
First off I wanted to thank you ahead of time for any help that you can provide and ask that you please bear with me because I am new to tractors. I have extensive knowledge working on cars and gas engines, however have never touched a diesel or a tractor.
I recently bought an AC 7050 from a friend to put a snowblower on for my yard. The tractor spent the last ten years as a pump tractor for their manure hauling business. They sold it because of a small knock that it had developed. They assumed that the tractor would last for a few years with the knock if all it was used for was blowing snow. Unfortunately the tractor had a different idea and decided to throw a rod through the side of the block while running barely off of idle and only making it 150 feet down my driveway. They have been more than generous with making the situation right which means I was now shopping for a new engine. Thanks to the help of another member I found on this site I have located a replacement 426 motor from a 1981 N5 combine with 3200 hours. The motor is complete including the turbo, injector pump, etc. It has been stored in a shed for the last two years. My questions are as follows:
Again I appreciate any help and knowledge that you can provide. |
Replies:
Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2010 at 11:27am
| Haven't done this myself but form what I've heard others say you can swap pan and pickup tube to cure bottom end.Doubt if rear plate is same but could be.Not hard to swap.Keep tractor flywheel.Put in new rear main seal and o-rings while swapping plate.Don't worry about hp setting.New fuel/filters feeding old motor should'nt be a problem.Could try to blow out all old fuel from system and purge with new before starting.Loosen all lines at injectors and hand pump/crank over till fuel dripping at injectors. If it were me, while the pan is off I'd put in all new bearings.Too many hrs on dirty oil is what killed your old engine(#5 rod?) I don't know which fuel system the N had but should be easy enough to adapt supply and return lines if different. Compare parts @ http://www.agcopartsbooks.com - www.agcopartsbooks.com N6 gleaner and 7050 agco allis . Bottom line...this is very do-able. |
Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2010 at 11:36am
| Quick look at parts shows N uses Ambac pump so a little adapting to fuel lines is in order. |
Posted By: niel ev
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2010 at 12:54pm
| Yo will have to change the front mounting plate becuase the combine sits on a stand and the tractor engine bolts to the frame rails and also the exhuast is a little differnt from a combine to the tractor and harmonic balancer is also different if you need to ask so more questions 1 618 282 2455 I'll try and answer them for you Niel |
Posted By: nemesis
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2010 at 1:08pm
| Thank you for the assistance. I will begin by browsing through the parts breakouts from the link that was supplied to try to answer most of my questions. That should get me a good start. I will post any other questions that I have. niel ev, I may take you up on that offer once I have a better understanding of the parts break outs. Again, thank you for the help! |
Posted By: nemesis
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2010 at 1:16pm
| Forgot to mention, it was the number 4 cylinder. The stamping is very clear on the bottom rod end sticking out of the block. I also see what I believe to be valvetrain parts lying in the bottom as well. She made quite a mess. As far as the oil, that is very possible. Their tractors get a good going over through the off season in the winter when there is time, however when it is time to go, they run 24/7 until everything is done. All repairs and maintenance are the minimum it takes to keep the operation moving during their short season. Especially on their older pump tractors who's only job it is to sit there for weeks on end running a lagoon pump. We picked this one up litteraly still sitting by the lagoon it had been pumping. When the knock began they shut it down and hooked up the next tractor in line. |
Posted By: Steve M C/IL
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2010 at 2:12pm
| Forgot about that front plate.Even though the pump is different,I think that plate is the same.Looks the same on my 220 VS 8070 where the pump goes.With the engine laying on its side(a little downhill to keep the lifters out of the way) you can loosen rocker shaft and get push rods out of the way to pull the cam to switch plate.Check for excess brg play in pump drive idler(doubt there's a problem)while in there.Recommend conversation with Niel. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2010 at 6:09pm
| I doubt very much that I'd ever change the front plate just to mount it to the side frames. Make youself a couple angle pieces to bolt to the sideframes and either tack weld them in place to the timing plate or bolt them. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2010 at 6:33pm
|
Not all N5's had AMBAC model 100 pumps. If yours has a roosa master, (most did)you could swap the tractor pump over to the combine engine, that way the electric shut-off/manual shut-off issue is taken care of, as well as the power output. I really dont think you even need to change the pan, even though they are different, I dont think it will interfere with anything since the axle is forward, plus you get more oil capacity. The rear plate and flywheel from the tractor will need to be put on, along with the rear seal/sleeve, and rear sealing ring and the cam hole seal. good luck, Ed.
------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Toscani SD
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2010 at 8:11pm
| i have a 7580 engine i would sell with 761 hrs on complete overhaul if you are interested,i'm in north east south dakota,it too has been sitting inside for 2 years |
Posted By: Kevin in WA
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2010 at 8:54pm
| I would put new rod bearings and bolts in it before you put it in the tractor so you don't end up with the same problem. Would have been nice if Allis would have increased the rod journal diameter on the 426 back in 1973 when the 7000 series came out. |
Posted By: nemesis
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2010 at 11:28am
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Question on this idea with the front plate. I am a fairly experienced fabricator and welder and have access to an excellent machinist if necessary. Would it make more sense to follow DrAllis' idea of fabricating new mounts for the existing front plate so as to alleviate the process of disassembling the motor to replace the front plate or do the tractor mounts perform an integral structural function in the location and set-up they are in. I am comfortable going either direction, just looking for the best alternative. As for replacing the bearings and bolts I have a question, and again, remember I am brand new to diesel's. With our mud race motors standard operating procedure to replace bearings would be complete disassembly of the motor to enable a machine shop to verify line boring as well as trueness of crank. Is this not the case with a tractor motor? Is it acceptable to simply unbolt caps and replace bearings with no machine work done?The pan in my situation will have to be swapped. The pan from the combine motor was accidently dented during removal. From examining the parts breakouts, the tractor pan appears to be deeper with more capacity thus prompting me to swap it anyway.
Thus far, I am hearing that the following items will need to be swapped from the tractor to the combine engine:
The following items are recommended to be replaced:
The following items are optional to switch
Please let me know if I am missing something.
Niel ev - Is there a good day and time to call you with questions?
Toscani SD - I really appreciate the offer but already have a verbal agreement with the other member. I will contact you if it falls through. Out of curiosity, is there a reason that the 7580 engine would be better/easier than the one I am working with?
Thank you everyone for your help!
|
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2010 at 12:10pm
| I am far from an expert but we did kind of the same thing when we put the generator engine in our 220. When I noticed the front mount problem I thought about doing it Docs way and re doing the plate. Ended up swapping the pan, front cover and plate and it wasn't realy that big of a deal. You will need an engine manual and a puller set up for the cam gear at least on ours we did. Prolly need the seals for the injection pump drive shaft as well. Spent 2/3 of a day in the shop most of it spent cleaning parts. We had to swap a lot of other things like filters,'stat housings etc etc. ALso gave me a chance to pull a few caps and look the bearings over. I had a complete gasket set on hand and was glad I did. probably cheaper than all the individuals and certainly lots quicker and nicer to have them at hand. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2010 at 12:13pm
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the 7580 engine is already set up for tractor application. Inj pump will be fine on the tractor with elect shut-off, but it will put the tractor pto hp to about 175ish(n5 190 eng hp) which is not much more than stock 7050 anyway, just dont abuse it. As for the front plate, 2 pieces of angle iron with holes drilled in the right places will work fine. No need to open it up anymore than needed. Yes bearing inserts can be rolled in without complete tear-down, as long as there isn't any spun bearings or severely worn ones. good luck with the project, Ed. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: nemesis
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2011 at 9:16pm
Well I am still working through the planning stage of the project. I have been talking with a couple of local tractor mechanics getting up to speed on working on one. Neil, I still plan on giving you a call as well. In the meantime though, I thought I would add a couple of pictures of the window I put in the block.
  And this is a random piece that I found laying on the ground. I am assuming it is a tappet that rides on the cam.
 As you can see it made a mess of things.
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