50 B engine problem
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22616
Printed Date: 21 Feb 2025 at 12:58pm
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Topic: 50 B engine problem
Posted By: case580
Subject: 50 B engine problem
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2010 at 4:56pm
| I removed the head on my 50 B to fix a broke bolt and install a new gasket. While I was in the process I removed the oil pan and cleaned the bottom end really well. I resently reinstalled the head and today I turned the engine over (using the starter) for the first time. My problem is, only the #2 intake valve is moving, none of the remaining valves are moving at all. I realize I may be asking to broad of a question but I have to start somewhere. Tell me what additional information is needed to solve my problem. Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2010 at 5:05pm
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When you dropped the push rods in could they be off to the side and not lined up? ------------- Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker |
Posted By: case580
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2010 at 5:13pm
| I noticed when I dropped the puch rods back some wanted to drop down further than others. After messing with the push rods I have all of them sitting at the same height and each one is tight up aganist the rocker arm. Is this a timing problem or maybe a bad cam? |
Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2010 at 5:18pm
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I don't think they should all be at the same height, whether it's timed right or not because of the lobes of the cam. I'd pull the rocker arm off again and double check where they are sitting. ------------- Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker |
Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2010 at 5:29pm
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Are the rest of the push rods moving up and down when the camshaft is turning? |
Posted By: case580
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2010 at 5:34pm
| none of the other push rods are moving only the #2 valve rocker and push rod. Currently all the rockers are sitting basicly at the same height and all the push rods are snug up against the rocker and the rocker is snug against the valve spring. Could I have stuck valves? |
Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2010 at 5:38pm
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Are the rest of the push rods moving up and down when the camshaft is turning? The push rods will not be the same heigth when they are sitting on the lifters correctly. |
Posted By: case580
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2010 at 5:41pm
| okay, well I must not have the push rods sitting correctly on the lifters. I tried to center the push rods in the holes going through the head and make sure the rods were vertical. I will go double check the position of the push rods. |
Posted By: MilesGray (CO/KS)
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2010 at 5:49pm
 The push rods should not be even when they are in correctly.
This is how mine sat as I was removing them.
------------- Miles Gray (CO/KS) 5 1938 B's, 1940 B, 1944 WF C, 1948 NF C, Gleaner A, White Top Rotobaler, 1957 IH Golden Jubilee... I'm either a collector, or crazy! |
Posted By: case580
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 6:26pm
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finally getting around to updating this post. I didn't have several of my push rods seated properly. After I got the push rods seated correctly on the lifters and under each rocker arm everything looked to be operating correctly.
This brought up another question.
How do I adjust the valves? I got the tractor running today and best I can tell it runs fine (seems a little under powered when pulling a hill). No obvious timing problems but I would like to know if the valves are adjusted correctly.
If I have #1 Cyld at TDC on the compression (intake) stroke how do I measure the valve adjustment? After I get #1 Cyld set how do I proceed to the other 3 cylinders?
Thanks for the help!
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Posted By: RyanTN
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 7:21pm
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Do you have a service manual? If not, several vendors on this site (parts link in the top right corner of this web page) sell them. Here is a link for a World War two technical manual for a Model B ( http://carl.army.mil/wwIItms/TM9_782_1942.pdf - http://carl.army.mil/wwIItms/TM9_782_1942.pdf ). It is free to download and is 4.2 MB in size. Page 36 (of the pdf file / page 32 of the original manual) briefly covers valve tappet adjustment. Basically get the valves so neither one is trying to open and set the clearance to .010 hot (ABOUT .012 cold). Does that help point you in the right direction? |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2011 at 7:40pm
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When the piston is on the compression stroke both valves should be closed. That is where you set the gap. I have heard .011 or.012 cold will get you close to .010 hot. When number one is coming up on TDC that is the compression stroke. Each cylinder will follow in order of the firing order.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |