I have a small drip from the front crankshaft seal. How hard is this to replace? I have replaced seals in some engines by dropping pan and loosening the Main caps, letting the crank drop slightly. This works if the seal is 2 piece.

 

What am I looking at on this engine???

 

I guess I don't know what you're talking about. I don't remember having anything in front of the of the crank pulley. Does anyone have a picture of what I should be looking for?

 

Thanks

 

When I go out I'll get the serial number so we can make sure what year it is.

Human safety is more important than iron preservation.   Late sn engines after 33k-21863 had double wide thrust brgs and a wider thrust area in the crankshaft itself. They did not require the front bra kit. Be careful when changing or swapping cranks.  Anyone who has built a 301 or 433 has found the old blocks have a wire edge that will prevent the wider brgs from fitting in the block. The block will accept the late brgs if the sides of the block that prevent the brgs from fitting in the saddle are filed down smooth. No problem, easy to do.    Late engines were equipped with higher compression pistions and smaller  .032 orfice tips.  They cranked much better in cold weather. 33k-20381 was the cut in sn for high compression pistions, best of my info. Older engines on F2's and K2's with  the 201 ci engines had the old AC injectors.  These all had the low compression pistons as well. The advantage to these were that IF the correct ether system was used they would crank without the ether knock and damage that occurs when excessive starting fluid  is used.    Hope this helps.   It is rare to have a front seal leak on these engines as the front seal does not rub on the crank itself, but if the crank does move back and forth it is a tell-tale issue.

 

Great information. I wondered why there was a indicator light that let you know the pto was disengaged. Man, I have been operating with shift lever in gear and lever pulled back!!!!

 

Tbran - thanks for any additional info on these engines. On the older 433T or 433I engines before 33k-20381 sn - is the correct ether system for the 433s where the can of ether is inserted into the engine's either setup and then applied from the cab of the gleaner k2 combine?  If I choose to just use the intake heater element is that ok if I don't want to use ether or does this require too much start cranking hense causing premature wear?

 

Do you remember the cost? Maybe part number?

 

This has been really informative.

 

Wow, they say they have one. Got it on the way, hopefully will take care of this problem.

That is pretty good that you can still order new parts for an AC tractor.

No Agco - parts availability for AC goes down in a hurry.

 

What I meant is Tim at Mark Heitman Salvage said he had one. Should be shipping.

 

Yeah, I had figured that out. That kit is nearly $800. I'm just curious why it is listed on the 6080 but not on the 6060. Does that mean the 6060 is not as proned to this problem???

 

Thanks