Farm Equipment - How to change D17 camshaft?

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How to change D17 camshaft?

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Topic: How to change D17 camshaft?

Posted By: rr4406pak
Subject: How to change D17 camshaft?
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 11:38am

Just found that my camshaft has a broken oil pump drive gear on my gasoline D17 *sigh* (I think it is a series 3 have to check the serial number). So I have to change the camshaft. The oil pump gear is perfect (I do wonder how the heck the oil pump gear can be perfect and the cam gear absolutely destroyed? Oh well, anyways...)

My questions are:
1. Where can I get a new camshaft?

2. I assume changing the lifters is mandatory?

3. Is this a very difficult job with the engine still in the tractor (I'm not the best mechanic but I have changed the cam in a car before)? I know I have to take the radiator off. What else needs to be removed on the front of the engine? Any tricks?

4. I would like to buy a shop manual so I know what I"m doing when disassembling and reassembling. What is a good manual to buy?

Help is greatly appreciated and Thanks in advance!
Keith

Replies:

Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 12:16pm

By a manual from Darin to help support this site. http://www.3000toys.com/allis/manuals.asp - http://www.3000toys.com/allis/manuals.asp

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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 1:27pm

It's going to be a bunch easier to change the cam with the engine out and turned upside down. The lifters cannot be removed with the cam in place. If you can figure out a way to keep the lifters up in their bores, it can be done. I'd pull it if it were mine. If the cam gear bit the dust, how long did it run before you saw the oil gauge at 0? It'll be easier to inspect the rotating assy for lack of oil damage with it out on a stand. Getting a shop manual would be a very wise first step.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Posted By: rr4406pak
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 1:34pm

Pulling the engine is not an option for me. I don't have the facility to do such a thing.
I have to change the cam with the engine where it sits.

As to how long I ran it with zero oil pressure?
I'd have to say (I'm guessing) a few years.
Engine runs smooth.
I always thought the oil pressure gauge was just broken.
Stupid me...
Have not looked at the rockers or upper valve-train yet.
I might be in for a surprise there too.

I have got to change this cam.
The I.T. book will be my first purchase.

Winter is coming and I do not have a heated garage.
It might be best for me to wait until spring if the job is really complicated...

Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 1:38pm

the engine has to come out and at least lay on its side or next option is to be real creative with tie wire to push each lifter up off the cam lobe as you pull the cam out the front of the engine. then theres the cam bearings so the engine needs to be pulled.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra

Posted By: rr4406pak
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 1:42pm

Why can't I use the old cam bearings?

Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 2:16pm

Pull out push rods then find wooden dowels that fit fairly tight into the lifters. Push them into each lifter. Lift each lifter up to clear the cam and put a rubber band around every two dowels. This will hold them in place. Now you can pull the cam shaft. Old mechanics trick and it works.

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Wink
I am a Russian Bot

Posted By: gcalent
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 2:24pm

I agree that the proper way would be to remove the engine and turn it upside down, BUT you can remove the cam in the tractor. As you have figured out you will need to remonve the timing cover from the engine. The lifters can be held in place, after removing the valve train, by using a wooden dowel that fits tight into the lifter bore. Tap the dowel in to the lifter and hold in place with a small spring clamp. After removing the cam the lifters can be removed from the botton if desired. The cam bearings in these engines are brass and are pretty tuff, so you may be able to reuse them, you not doing a total rebuild just trying to get it back operational.

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Pullin With AC

Posted By: rr4406pak
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 2:28pm

Thanks for the tips!

Will I have to remove any steering or front axle parts to get the cam out?

Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 2:32pm

If I remember correctly, the shop manual says to take the front pedestal off to remove the oil pan. If you have p/s, the ram definitely would hinder you getting the pan off. I'm not sure how tough it would be to remove the front pulley or if it can be done with the pedestal on it.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Posted By: rr4406pak
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 2:36pm

I don't have powers steering and I already have the oil pan off.
The only thing I had to remove to get the oil pan off was the starter.

I sure hope I don't have to remove any front end parts (besides the radiator). Fingers crossed!

Posted By: Chris (swIA)
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 7:51pm

Yes it can be changed without pulling the engine. I just did this on mine due to govenor weights going throught the timing gears. You have to pull the front end off so you can pull the crankshaft pulley, front engine support, and then the timing cover. Just block it up securely under the torque tube. An extra pair of hands would have been helpful putting the cam back in and trying to hold up the lifters though.

Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 9:34pm

I use closepins in the dowl s to keep the lifters up. MACK