Question for the auto painters
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Shops, Barns, Varmints, and Trucks
Forum Description: anything you want to talk about except politics
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=207884
Printed Date: 22 Aug 2025 at 10:34am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Question for the auto painters
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Subject: Question for the auto painters
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2025 at 3:29am
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I’m getting close to having my old truck project ready for paint. I have the door jambs and inner side of the doors stripped to bare meta. Is there a rattle can primer suitable for these ? I plan to use epoxy primer on the exterior. A lot of the exterior will be to bare metal as well |
Replies:
Posted By: Dirt Farmer
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2025 at 4:22am
| Crazy as it sounds and against the orange bleeding folks here, I really like the John Deere primer, it goes on smooth and comes in rattle can, quart or gallon. Im not a professional painter by no means but I restored a wd45 a couple years ago and thats what I used and its held up very well. It is also very reasonably priced when compared to automotive primers. |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2025 at 6:50am
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John Deere's paint is (or at least used to be) Valspar, the same as AGCO paint. I always heard that, on bare metal, you should use a metal etch prior to painting or a self-etching primer.
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Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2025 at 8:21am
I am considering rustoleum Self etching primer. Was told it works well on another website for car guys. Hoping for advice from the guys in this group. I trust them the most. |
WF owner wrote:Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2025 at 9:53am
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Use the SAME epoxy primer for the ENTIRE truck ! That way it's 100% the same, no chance of 'incompatabilty ' problems. Easy to tarp off the interior and windshield areas for priming the doors and jambs. Be sure to clean the gun out as SOON as you're finished ! Do NOT answer the phone clean the gun out !!!! ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2025 at 4:33pm
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Unless have a Sensitive Heart to pressure, Price CAREFULLY, Rustoleum is OK for Garden Furniture and outdoors metal displays, Not So Hot for AUTO work as most auto paints will lift with that as a base. Epoxy Primer being Petro Based will run in excess of Hundreds per QUART, hardener and activator are Separate. Unless have a Booth for real paint, where auto shops these days use Water Suspended Auto Paints, check with anyone in the business before taking anyone else's word. Major malfunction is if intend to prime and allow to sit awhile, like days to weeks, will have to prep sand and reclean to apply any paints, my epoxy primers used on the Ford and KW were under 14-18 hours untouched after spraying could liberally apply paint.
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Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2025 at 5:37pm
Probably a week between primer and paint. |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2025 at 6:11pm
| Close to gallon and half of paint, gallon Clear, misc bottles of Hardener and Activator along with a Retarder and thinning agents, for the Ford including Primer, was close to $2300.00. Decimal is NOT in the wrong place, For the KW two and a half years earlier, close to 3.5gallons total was just over $3600.00. Never did add up all the Enamel Reducer, Lacquer Thinner purchases as to cleaning and degreasing. These were all matched chemically so one would not attack the other. IF can find someone with guns and a willingness to bargain, Water Based is around HALF the above pricing but requires special considerations and techniques. |
Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 21 Aug 2025 at 11:13pm
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Hey Good Buddy,,,,I cannot lay claim to be an expert on automotive prep and painting,,but I have painted a few of them thru out my years of Shade Treeing,,,, I did try TSC's basic paint and after just a few months the paint had faded very badly on a rider mower to have to re-do and repaint with some good quality paint. I now get my paint from TCP Global with great results and even greater prices. They have either single stage as well as two stage paints. I used their single stage Urethane with their hardner plus their thinner on my D15 Series II with great coverage and flow out was perfect. I also used their paints and additives for f the D14 Backhoe/loader and several other equipment with great results at a fraction of the cost of the SW's,,,,,,, Harbor Freight has really evened up the competition with the HVLP guns they now sell. I have two of their Gravity flow HVLP guns that I can compare to my Binks #7 which I still have and my used to be "Go To" Devilbiss,,,The Devilbiss was $260 and the Binks was $190...the HF Special is $19 when on sale,,,,!!
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Posted By: Dirt Farmer
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2025 at 12:02am
| Second that on the Harbor Freight HVLP guns. They work great for a diy and if you get the extended warranty and after you use it a bunch and its full of dried paint return it for a new one. Store in town says that happens more often than you think. Ask them about it. |
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2025 at 4:54am
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Will be using single stage urithane oxford white for paint from whole sale automotive paint. The epoxy primer will come from the same place. It’s local and they’re good about answering questions. I’d just like to get those jambs sealed up and the doors mounted. |
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2025 at 4:57am
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I blasted the inside (jamb area) of the doors. The drivers door quickly turned to Swiss cheese. Having a hard time finding solid doors. I just need to protect what I have down to bare metal. |
Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2025 at 10:06am
| Thad, I would go to your local supplier and folllow their recommendation and give it a whiirl. |