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D-14 overheating

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=206981
Printed Date: 06 Jun 2025 at 5:17pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: D-14 overheating
Posted By: jaybmiller
Subject: D-14 overheating
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2025 at 3:39pm
OK. 'Troy' wants to peg the temp gauge so....
1) drain all the 50/50
2) water flush rad ,both ways, comes out strong,no krap
3) water flush engine, both ways,comes out strong, no krap
4) buy new stat kit ( rubber ring, stat, brass adapter)
5) install new Vbelt...

fill rad with cool water, eventually rad 'boils over' ,though NOT hot water

IR gun says block by plugs is 120*F, so really not 'overheating',though gauge says 'red'.

Tractor is kinda 'nose down' on the grade,so thinking 'air block' ?

New stat kit...different rubber ring and brass adapter, can't use(brass won't fit into housing) # 228124.

Tomorrow I'll remove the temp sender and fill from there.

ANY ideas,thoughts, guesses are  appreciated. Kinda stymied on this !!!

Sure glad I don't NEED the tractor......

Thanks
Jay


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water



Replies:
Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2025 at 7:20pm

I/R Gun says 120'F !

Put some tape over that defective Temp. Gauge.

Put the Thermostat back in and drive it.

G


Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2025 at 7:42pm
Take a look at where the sensor is for the temperature gauge is: Right next to the exhaust valve, of course it is going to read hot. What does your I/R gun read right at that location and compare it to the gauge. All the small D engine had the sensor located here until the D15II came out. Not at the same time you take a reading by the exhaust valve, What is it reading on the head just below the thermostat housing? This is where the D15II has the sensor and where I relocate the sensor to in all the small D engines I work on. It's like fixing a charging problem what the tractor has a +60-60 amp gauge and the maximum generator output is 12 amps or a low oil pressure complaint when the tractor has 10-15PSI normally and there's a 80PSI gauge installed. Get you reading where it should be taken from and then see how thigs are.

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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 5:41am
Unless I am reading it wrong, I believe he is saying that the tractor pushes coolant out after running for a while, but the coolant being pushed out is not hot.

Have you tried removing the thermostat to see if it does the same thing? Are you sure you didn't install the new thermostat backward? 

When I was a kid (a long time ago...), it seemed that thermostats were replaced quite often. I rarely hear of anyone changing one now.


Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 6:08am
What pressure cap are you using?


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 6:15am
Do NOT overfill the radiator !!! It must be down a couple of inches at least when cold. It also sounds like you need a new and ACCURATE temp gauge.


Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 7:12am
  Using a radiator cap with a 3/4" reach will allow an Allis Chalmers to boil over quickly because Allis Chalmers need a 1" reach cap. 

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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 7:25am
Coolant temp sensors for series 2 model D-15's were both ways. The early G-160's were still on top of the cylinder head towards the rear. Only the later model tractors had the sensor moved to directly underneath the thermostat. We had two of them over the years and they were the older style. I myself had a later model one with the brake pedal latching feature and it was under the stat.


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 7:35am
Update on 'Troy'.
 refilled with water, confirmed water comes out the temp sender hole( drivers end of engine), yeah filled too much, no cap on, want to see what happens.
sure enough 'excess water' escapes.... gauge goes up to 220 then back down to 180ish and stays there for 10+ minutes. block temp 160ish 4-5 spots on right ride by plugs.
shut her down, let it cool, then this afternoon, put rad cap on  and start her up again.
seems to be 'ok'........finger crossed.

thanks for replies !
Jay


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water



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