Bar's Leaks Head gasket sealant
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=206040
Printed Date: 01 Apr 2025 at 12:07pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Bar's Leaks Head gasket sealant
Posted By: ACinSC
Subject: Bar's Leaks Head gasket sealant
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2025 at 11:49am
| Anyone use this stuff? Did it work? Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2025 at 12:20pm
|
I have used the COPPER 1109 stuff with great success.. Not like the slimy goop stuff they sold 30 years ago. Had a leaking head gasket on an old F150 and i would seal it up and good for about 1 year... Then do it again... Rebuilt a Allis B and must have torn a cylinder liner o-ring or small crack i missed... Put 6-8 oz in several years ago and never looked back. Ha another B with a small hole in bad spot on lower radiator tank.. fixed that.. Couple other successes. So far i have never found anything that it would not repair... Some not Permanent, but several months.. the actual "BLOCK" sealer is the silver stuff... Suppose to be as good or better.. Have never had the opportunity to try it... Most of my experience with the 1109 was 5- 15 years ago.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2025 at 1:12pm
|
Had a ‘99 Ford Taurus, that blew a heater hose while my Son was driving, or course he ignored my telling him to park it, and Mom will pick you up. Continued to drive home till the computer shut down, by then too late. Towed car home, fixed heater hose next day, refilled with coolant, car started right up, but blowing white out the tailpipe, and bubbles in the pressurized coolant reservoir. Tried every block sealer, head gasket repair on the market, got the white smoke out the exhaust stopped, but never could get issue of exhaust going into the cooling system, gave the car away to a mechanic I knew. ------------- I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science. |
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2025 at 1:32pm
|
Thanks Steve and Lars. I'm going to give it a try |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2025 at 2:24pm
Yes. No. Guessing it all depends on how blown it is. |
ACinSC wrote:Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2025 at 3:06pm
|
If it does work, it would just be a band aid. Eventually you are going to have to replace the gasket anyway. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2025 at 3:14pm
|
The ALLIS B i had a bad cylinder o-ring ( i think) and it sealed it permanently... Head gasket on a 5.4 V8 i did 3 times in 4 years. Truck had 170,000 miles and was not worth the time, effort, or $$$ , pulling engine to rebuild......... had 250 K when i sold it for $2000.
I would agree with Tbone... It all depends on HOW BAD it leaks... If your burning a quart of antifreeze an hour it will work.. If its pouring out a gallon, your in trouble,
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2025 at 3:27pm
|
I have a WD that froze and cracked the block behind the carburetor (where they all crack). When I bought it, it had been welded but still seeped pretty good when it was warm. I asked what they recommended, and he said Bar's Leak was the ONLY thing he would recommend. I bought a can, followed the directions and it has been dry for many years since.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2025 at 5:14pm
| I think coolant loss has been a problem on his D-15 for a couple of years. I believe a new head gasket was tried. I assume this is the vehicle he is asking about needing coolant loss sealer. Maybe not. |
Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2025 at 5:54pm
| The only one that I have seen to work is called "Irontite". I have used it in several different applications. |
Posted By: dfwallis
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2025 at 7:10pm
|
Worked great on my 2006 Ranger radiator leak. 100% leak free for a few years now. ------------- 1952 CA13092 |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2025 at 7:04am
|
My experience was a 2004 Chevy Monte Carlo with the 3.4 V6. Was going down the road and developed a miss and warmed up quickly. So it was blown pretty bad. HOWEVER, at the same time we had a Pontiac Montana with the same engine. Together those two vehicles damn near bankrupted me, no exaggeration, no lie. One thing after another I could not get ahead of it. When that gasket blew I was about broke and saw the Bars Leaks Head Gasket formula so gave it a shot. So racked up even more on the credit card and got the head gasket replaced. 18 months later the engine seized. The van’s frequent trick was to pull the studs that held the rocker arms out of the block. Fix was to drill out and put an oversized helicoil in so you could use a bigger stud. The third time that happened I had them do ALL the rest of them. GM took the very good 3.8 engine and cheapened it in every possible way to spawn the 3.4. The late 2000’s and early Teens were sure a rough patch in the life of ol’ Tbone! And my GM experiment was OVER! |
Posted By: Oldwrench
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2025 at 7:51am
| Besides its sealing effectiveness, I would wonder (worry?) about its potential for partially plugging the radiator and coolant passages? I recall as a kid using it at various times on the farm to seal leaks in some old farm truck that would barely run anyway, but I wonder if it would plug up the smaller passages in heater cores and such in modern vehicles? |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2025 at 8:36am
|
the "new stuff" is not the same as the BLACK GUMMY GOO or the SILVER FLAKES that were common 30 - 50 years ago... The "New stuff" does not seem to plug radiator or internal passages.... some how it looks for a Differential pressure, like leaking into the crank case or combustion chamber or external... "normal flow" thru the passages is OK.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2025 at 10:11am
|
Sad but true Dr Allis that this started a couple years ago Still getting a trace of coolant in the bottom of my D 15 oil pan. I'll crack the drain plug soon and check for coolant. Thanks everyone! |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2025 at 10:33am
| I’ve been told by a very knowledgeable reliable source that they dump a dose of bars leaks into a brand new car when it’s built. |
Posted By: ekjdm14
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2025 at 10:33am
|
My experience of sealers like this, if you're having trouble with combustion getting in the coolant (pressurising/bubbling out the cap) then there's little point trying them as they never seem to work. If it's just mixing/losing oil or coolant they can be a good fix. Only exception is blue devil, no personal experience but have heard of it fixing combustion leaks at least temporary. |
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2025 at 12:59pm
| How long does it take for coolant/water to show up in the bottom of the oil pan? Overnight or a couple days? Thanks! |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2025 at 1:10pm
|
i would normally add the sealer.. then run the engine for 30 - 60 minutes while i traveled to work / chores / etc.. Let it set an hour or overnight... then do it again.. sometimes it sealed in the first 30 minutes... sometimes it still had a minor leak and took a couple cylces on / off to fix... then monitor daily - weekly until your convinced it worked. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: jvin248
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2025 at 1:23pm
|
. Radiator leak trick my father used back in the late 70s was cracking a chicken egg in the radiator and that plugged a lot of leaks, better than "the store bought stuff". He got ten years out his work pickup and I think the tractor I'm using now got a dose or two. There is a liquid copper mix I've seen lately. .
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Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2025 at 10:32am
| No luck. Plan B. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2025 at 10:39am
| You're still having coolant getting in the oil ??? Step #1. Leave the antifreezed coolant full in the radiator. NOT straight water. #2. Remove the valve cover. #3. Pressurize the radiator to 12 psi max. #4. Inspect the freeze plugs that are on top of the cylinder head located UNDER the valve cover. #5. If they are dry/no leakage, remove the engine oil pan and inspect for leaking sleeve orings while the radiator is pressurized still. I don't believe you've had the pan off to look at the sleeve orings. You were assuming it was the head gasket. |
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2025 at 11:07am
| Thanks Dr Allis. I've pressurized the system twice since the head rebuild. Both times it held 10 psi overnight. Wondering if coolant only shows up in the oil when the engine is hot? Per directions I only used half the bottle of stop leak. I'm trying the rest now. Thanks again |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2025 at 11:25am
| Sometimes, yes, maybe only when hot. You had water or coolant ?? |
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2025 at 11:28am
| Thought it was water but now I believe it's weak coolant |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2025 at 11:49am
| Straight antifreeze leaks EASIER than water or a coolant mix because the molecules are smaller. Finding a leak with straight water can be more difficult. |
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2025 at 12:13pm
| Ok thanks!! |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2025 at 12:42pm
|
i would run the tractor for an hour and cycle it a couple times before i gave up.... your small leak is one that should easily be fixed by sealer... Its the BIG leaks that are normally a NO GO.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: ekjdm14
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2025 at 1:26pm
Have heard of this but never tried, I think for older kit it'd work OK but newer machines/vehicles have finer tubes in the rad &/or heater core which would likely become blocked by cooked egg. On the other hand, I've had great luck with ground black pepper. One of our cars has a rotted out radiator which leaked from numerous areas, adding about 8 teaspoons of black pepper has reduced it's thirst from needing topped up every couple hours of driving to checking it in the morning & usually topping off every 3 or 4 days. Also has greatly slowed down the leaks from my B radiator, this used to just pour out to the point that the fan sprayed it all over the ignition and caused misfires. Now with a hefty dose (1-1 1/2Oz) of pepper it barely weeps, running straight water so it gets drained overnight but an ounce lasts 2 or 3 refills before losing effectiveness. Lot cheaper than Bars leaks & it smells nice too! Oh, the copper stuff if I'm thinking right is K-Seal, yes? This was developed for our notorious Rover K series engines, the damn things liked to eat head gaskets as an appetizer for breakfast (breakfast being your NEW head gasket, head bolts and fresh coolant/oil for added mayonnaise! Then lunch, the bottom end from Glycol poisoning the bearings). Horrible stuff IMHO, clogs heater cores and rads like nobody's business and ruins your pressure cap and thermostat into the deal. Iit was OK to "buy time" on a dying Rover, to run out the MoT while you saved up for a replacement car, but wouldn't let it near anything I cared about.
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Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2025 at 1:27pm
| Yeah Steve, that's my plan. Thanks |
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2025 at 12:39pm
|
Checking for water in the engine oil today. It's been dripping out way before the oil does. Kept unscrewing drain plug until oil started pouring out Glad I had a catch pan in place. Almost time for the annual oil change anyway. Thanks |