I600won’t run right
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=205579
Printed Date: 25 Feb 2025 at 3:00pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: I600won’t run right
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Subject: I600won’t run right
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2025 at 4:46am
My I600 started sputtering and missing. Reminds me of a fuel issue. I pulled the carb, soaked and cleaned it and installed a basic kit. No change. I will say that the key ignition switch doesn’t seem quite right. It starts right up but you must not let it spring back very far at all or it dies. I’ll get that changed but I don’t think that’s the whole problem. It will start and idle well. Give much throttle and it starts to sputter. Choke has no effect on this whatsoever. The points on this tractor are wore out. Could they be the problem? Is there any points I can buy at the local auto parts store that will fit this? Who sells good points?
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Replies:
Posted By: ekjdm14
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2025 at 5:39am
I'd suggest go through the ignition & even if the points are worn make sure they're gapped as close as you can get. 90% of "fuel" issues turn out to be weak/badly timed spark.
If you replace the points, consider keeping the old condenser (or finding old stock) unless it's bad as new ones seem to be worse than old stuff.
Obviously I don't know a good source for points sadly, my Allis is on a Ford distributor lol
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Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2025 at 6:02am
ign switch, definitely change it, when they get wonky, will drive you nuts. Second, check your wiring, specifically check the polarity of the coil, - should go to points, on a - ground system. also check plug wires, common mistake is firing order, 1-2-4-3. If an IH mechanic has been at it, some wires might be reversed! Before replacing points, consider converting to pertronix system, its the same labor as points, but this will be the last time you have to do it...
------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2025 at 6:09am
DiyDave wrote:
ign switch, definitely change it, when they get wonky, will drive you nuts. Second, check your wiring, specifically check the polarity of the coil, - should go to points, on a - ground system. also check plug wires, common mistake is firing order, 1-2-4-3. If an IH mechanic has been at it, some wires might be reversed! Before replacing points, consider converting to pertronix system, its the same labor as points, but this will be the last time you have to do it... | Will do Dave. It was running perfect while digging some footers this spring then it just started sputtering like running out of gas or clogged carb. Choke makes no difference which makes me think electrical. Switch has gotten Wonky for sure. May try it with ignition unhooked and a jumper wire just to see what that does.
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Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2025 at 7:50am
Have you checked the Air Cleaner path for any restrictions / blockage
Also removed the Gas Line at the Carb to verify Fuel Flow.
G
Link to Tractor Data Website 1966 to 1968
https://www.tractordata.com/industrial-tractors/000/1/7/173-allis-chalmers-i400-dimensions.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.tractordata.com/industrial-tractors/000/1/7/173-allis-chalmers-i400-dimensions.html
Link to I-600
https://www.tractordata.com/industrial-tractors/000/0/8/85-allis-chalmers-i600.html
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2025 at 8:06am
you can just run a jumper wire from the battery to the coil.. no need to disconnect the switch to test.........
sure sounds like its time to do the point and condenser.. like mentioned, sometimes the OLD condenser is worth keeping.. but if you dont CHANGE it out, you wont know if it is the problem..... I had a similar problem a few years ago and it ended up being a weak coil... NAPA or AUTO ZONE should be able to supply the parts... or several on line sites.
I did have one tractor that a mud dobber had built up a nest inside the air cleaner cap and was restricting air... would not rev up..how he got thru them little holes i will never know.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2025 at 10:31am
DiyDave wrote:
ign switch, definitely change it, when they get wonky, will drive you nuts. Second, check your wiring, specifically check the polarity of the coil, - should go to points, on a - ground system. also check plug wires, common mistake is firing order, 1-2-4-3. If an IH mechanic has been at it, some wires might be reversed! Before replacing points, consider converting to pertronix system, its the same labor as points, but this will be the last time you have to do it... |
I did that in reverse order about a year ago. Wired my 400 1-2-4-3, ran on 2 cylinders. Pretty sure it's supposed to be 1-3-4-2. I did learn that a Farmall 400 will run on 1 cylinder in the process.
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2025 at 11:35am
My Model C Allis was parked outside and somehow rain got into the air filter oil cup, then when freezing weather came it solidified into something resembling ice cream; not quite solid but it would not pass air. No start, of course.
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Posted By: Kenny L.
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2025 at 5:51pm
Thad sent you a PM. Kenny
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Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2025 at 7:20pm
A couple updates I had an old distributor on the shelf. I pulled the points and condenser out of it. I installed them and it wouldn’t hit . I had a spark tester and it showed to be firing. I pulled the drain under the carb and had a steady flow for several minutes. I reset the points a few times and swapped back to the old condenser and still no luck. I removed the hose to the air cleaner and no luck I ran a jumper wire to the coil and no luck. I switched coils and no luck. I ran out of time as it’s my afternoon to go to the nursing home to visit my mom. I put a battery charger on it and left. When I got home it still wouldn’t hit. For whatever reason I squirted some carb cleaner in the carb and it fired right up. It even kept running but would start to sputter so I’d give it a squirt and it would clear up. I’d say my gas is bad. It doesn’t smell bad or look bad but I think it’s bad. I ll update when I get it figured out for sure. Other update is, it’s an i600 not a 400. Don’t know where I got that?
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2025 at 7:26pm
bad gas ........... or maybe your main jet is plugged ??? Easy to get a floating piece of rust/ dirt in the system and STUCK in that little jet.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2025 at 7:33pm
Situations like this can be very frustrating.
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Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2025 at 5:02am
SteveM C/IL wrote:
Situations like this can be very frustrating. | Yes sir it eats up a lot of time.
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Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2025 at 5:07am
steve(ill) wrote:
bad gas ........... or maybe your main jet is plugged ??? Easy to get a floating piece of rust/ dirt in the system and STUCK in that little jet. | My thoughts exactly. I’m afraid it may be a plugged jet. I cleaned the carb meticulously and ran a wire through every jet. Cleaned some more and shot carb cleaner and air through every jet. I guess I’ll drain the gas and put in new and try that first then I’ll take the carb apart again if needed. Power valve and air fuel mixture screw don’t change this at all.
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Posted By: Straanger
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2025 at 12:25pm
Get a gas tank for a roto-tiller or snow blower and clamp it above the carb. Find out real quick.
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Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2025 at 12:45pm
He said he had a good flow of gas out the drain of the Carb.
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2025 at 12:50pm
--------For whatever reason I squirted some carb cleaner in the carb and it fired right up. It even kept running but would start to sputter so I’d give it a squirt and it would clear up. I’d say my gas is bad. It doesn’t smell bad or look bad but I think it’s bad. I ll update when I get it figured out for sure.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2025 at 1:00pm
So with my Post and then Steves Post one would conclude that the fuel problem is
inside the Carb because the fuel isn't getting from the Carb to the Engine.
G
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Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2025 at 4:38pm
If it runs fine until it warms up - could be the coil as well.
------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2025 at 6:50am
tbran wrote:
If it runs fine until it warms up - could be the coil as well. | Given that some thought but it will run with a squirt of carb cleaner. Wondering if vacuum leak, bad fuel or still plugged. I’m going to have to give it some more trial and error time.
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Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2025 at 7:42am
If it runs when you spray carb cleaner in the Carb air intake, the carb cleaner is taking the place of the Gas - air mixture.
G
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