D14 gas tank rust
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=205520
Printed Date: 21 Feb 2025 at 8:57pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D14 gas tank rust
Posted By: AC720Man
Subject: D14 gas tank rust
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2025 at 1:30pm
I continue to dig into to my D14. Went for another test drive yesterday and she started running terrible and then shut off. After 2 cleanings of the screen and bowl and 2 test runs that ended in rough running I drained the tank. Looking into the tank with a flashlight I saw a lot of rust. Removed the tank and after it air dried I used a shop vac to removed a lot of rust. Will do the usual tricks that remove the remaining rust but my question is has anyone ever used POR 15 products? Kit contains a degreaser/varnish remover, rust removal agent, metal prep, and then the tank sealant.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2025 at 1:35pm
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Before you do all that, try what I've always done and with good success. If the tank is dry on the inside, stick a small hand held sand blaster in the fill hole and rotate it at an angle to hit as much of the tanks bottom as possible. I'm talking swimming pool type sand or glass beads. Suck everything out with a shop vac. If the tank is damp, power wash it out several times, then let it dry and sandblast if needed and vac empty. I've always gotten the tanks clean enough they aren't a problem any more.
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2025 at 1:59pm
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yeah before using POR the tank HAS to be SPOTLESS........... if it isn't, the POR will separate from the tank, eventually, so I've been told.... kinda like powder coat..
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2025 at 2:38pm
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2025 at 2:39pm
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just imagine what your problems will be when whatever you paint the inside of the tank with starts to melt out and get into your carburetor. I've had professionally coated tanks do this. In the past I've gotten a radiator shop to clean the inside and then coat the inside with solder. Much better than any kind of pour in coating.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2025 at 2:57pm
big inline filter... or a drop leg sediment trap would help..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2025 at 3:46pm
I’ve used muratic acid in the past with good results but obviously have to be careful with it, fumes, full PPE but it works well. Not sure the sand blast nozzle I have available will go through the fuel hole but I could try it.
Just heard some over the years sealing their tanks and wasn’t sure of brand of product. Will see if the sandblast nozzle will fit first. It’s industrial grade sand so it’s really fine and would do a good job.
Thanks
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2025 at 4:37pm
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I bead blast/sand blast thru the top fill hole AND the sediment bowl hole.
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Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2025 at 8:30pm
I will give it a shot hopefully tomorrow Dr Allis. Hoping the nozzle will fit in the filler hole.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Posted By: Dave76
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2025 at 6:12am
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Harbor Freight sells a little hand held sandblaster with a small nozzle. It works good for small jobs like this.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2025 at 7:54am
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That's what I'm talking about. A one quart "pot" for the sand and a nozzle probably 3/8" in diameter.
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Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2025 at 9:46am
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Couple of thoughts; I have used for-15, so far, so good. Tank was very shiny so following the directions made it easy. It wasn't a rust issue I was trying to seal. Tank had some sort of impact damage and brazing rod just would not fix it.
Being a D series tank, you can, and should, remove the fuel gauge. That gives another hope and angle to work through.
I have 'tumbled' I believe 3 tanks now with good results. Video of the last one I did. https://youtu.be/lunH5A4bZmw?si=_7oafuz14RVtCzUr" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/lunH5A4bZmw?si=_7oafuz14RVtCzUr
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Posted By: Acdiesel
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2025 at 10:42am
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I to use the acid bath. I personally have had great luck with it.
lots of great ideas have been mentioned.
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D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3
2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF
D15 SER.2 DIESEL
D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II
2-720'S D21 Ser. II
Gmc,caterpillar
I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger)
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Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2025 at 12:40pm
Just got back from the machine shop. Since I decided to go this route I figured I would just go ahead and sandblast the entire tank while I had it in the cabinet. The only hole the nozzle would go through was the fuel gauge hole which was fine, works better at an angle anyway. I was able to shoot down through the fuel fill hole but only as far as the tip would go in. The blasting cabinet has a foot pedal to vary the pressure you use so I’m able to hit areas with low blast or harder areas with higher pressure. This allows blasting of fragile items or in the case of the outside of the tank I could use a higher pressure to get the paint and rust off quicker. Now I have a spotless tank inside. This thing was bad and was actually afraid of blowing a hole in the tank if the metal was weak. I tapped on the bottom before I started and it seamed not to have any weak spots in it. Wish I would have taken before and after pictures because you wouldn’t believe the difference. Thanks Doc for the suggestion, sure beats chemicals and if I hadn’t done the entire tank I could have gave it a good bath inside, dried it with my shop vac and had it back on the tractor going for a ride this afternoon.
Thanks for tips everyone. No doubt there are multiple ways of getting them clean but this was by far the easiest. In 5 minutes the inside was cleaned. There was so much red rust dust blowing out the holes I couldn’t see the tank through the glass when I first got started! Now she looks new again and surprisingly no pitting that I can see. Also blasted the left rear fender so I can do some body repairs to it. Guess I will be riding around this summer with a green etching primer tank, fender, and battery box until I paint it this fall. The ugly duckling I guess you could say. Oh well, as long as she runs great this year during hay season then she will deserve a paint job.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2025 at 2:55pm
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My local radiator shop has cleaned several of my tanks with muriatic acid and then lined them with their own type of coating. Some of them are going on 10 years of use and no problems to report. Having the tank lined after cleaning with acid is very important. The acid removes the anti-rusting material inside the tank and rust will set in VERY quickly. The lining will cover all the bare metal. Sediment bowls stay clean and no need for an inline filter.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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