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AC 175 starting issue

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=205152
Printed Date: 30 Jan 2025 at 11:39am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: AC 175 starting issue
Posted By: tongy66086
Subject: AC 175 starting issue
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2025 at 2:51pm
I have an Allis Chalmers 175 diesel, that has developed a problem.
I went out to start it, and got nothing when I pushed the start button.
I assumed the button was my issue, but it's not. New button, same issue.
I can turn the key on, and short across the solenoid, and get the tractor to start.
Does that tell me that I have a wiring problem?
If so, is the attached schematic correct on how the wiring would be?
Thank you so much for your help.




Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2025 at 3:01pm
Foot clutch pedal has to be all the way down. Could be a bad switch there on the clutch pedal rod.


Posted By: tongy66086
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2025 at 3:03pm
The clutch switch has been wired around years ago.
Thank you.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2025 at 3:15pm
A bad connection at that location, depending on how it was done. The push-on female/male spade connections at the key switch get rusty and are troublesome as they get on.


Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2025 at 3:34pm
Ummm... the way you have it drawn in your schematic you are sending Positive (+) voltage to both sides of the solenoid; no current will flow because both sides are at the same potential.


Posted By: 8070nc
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2025 at 3:56pm
The the negative is supplied through the frame of the solenoid and starter

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1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor


Posted By: ekjdm14
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2025 at 4:04pm
Originally posted by Les Kerf Les Kerf wrote:

Ummm... the way you have it drawn in your schematic you are sending Positive (+) voltage to both sides of the solenoid; no current will flow because both sides are at the same potential.

More than that, the starter is missing from the drawing.  Best way would be get a cheap multimeter & find out where you're losing power.


Posted By: Model 70
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2025 at 7:05pm
Put a test light on the small terminal on the solenoid,when you push the button if you have power going to it and it doesn’t turn over you probably need a new solenoid if jumping across both big terminals actually starts it. Hit the old solenoid with something,lot of times they stick


Posted By: sparky
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2025 at 8:32pm
Clean all the terminals and use a good tester.

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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!


Posted By: DanielW
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2025 at 12:35pm
Which way did you 'short across' the solenoid? If you went across the two main terminals ('A' in picture below) and it started, that would have bypassed the solenoid and jumped the starter. Which tells you your solenoid is bad/sticky (very common). Or that the solenoid is energizing a field and sucking in, but not making full contact across the two terminals inside. In either case, that would imply a bad solenoid.

If you went from the solenoid terminal connected to the battery to the small solenoid excitation wire ('B' in picture below), that would imply the solenoid's working and you're losing power to the solenoid. In which case, verify with a multimeter and start tracing wires and checking switches.


Posted By: tongy66086
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2025 at 1:50pm
Thank you so much.
I jumped it like B, in your picture.
I was suspecting a wiring issue, but at the moment, I don't feel like standing in 6" of snow and a windy 20 degrees.





Originally posted by DanielW DanielW wrote:

Which way did you 'short across' the solenoid? If you went across the two main terminals ('A' in picture below) and it started, that would have bypassed the solenoid and jumped the starter. Which tells you your solenoid is bad/sticky (very common). Or that the solenoid is energizing a field and sucking in, but not making full contact across the two terminals inside. In either case, that would imply a bad solenoid.

If you went from the solenoid terminal connected to the battery to the small solenoid excitation wire ('B' in picture below), that would imply the solenoid's working and you're losing power to the solenoid. IN which case, verify with a multimeter and start tracing wires and checking switches.


Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2025 at 3:59pm
Originally posted by 8070nc 8070nc wrote:

The the negative is supplied through the frame of the solenoid and starter

Well, you know that, and I know that, but we don't know if the original poster knows that. We are dealing with an unknown person on the internet and we don't know much about his level of expertise other than the obvious fact that he asked for assistance in troubleshooting a basic DC circuit. There is no shame in that, as we all had to start somewhere, but when I see an incomplete schematic I immediately presume that we need to address the fundamentals first.





Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2025 at 4:02pm
Originally posted by tongy66086 tongy66086 wrote:

Thank you so much.
I jumped it like B, in your picture.
I was suspecting a wiring issue, but at the moment, I don't feel like standing in 6" of snow and a windy 20 degrees.

Yup, when the weather warms up a bit just start checking for voltage drops in the control circuit through the key switch and push button.



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