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Engine Swap

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=204923
Printed Date: 15 Jan 2025 at 9:21am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Engine Swap
Posted By: tractorman21
Subject: Engine Swap
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2025 at 4:53pm
    Hello,
          I recently purchased a well taken care of F2 with the 6 cylinder diesel engine. The engine starts very easily and runs rather well. The rest of the machine is also in good condition for it's age. I purchased the machine mainly as a parts machine for my F2 & F3 combines.

   Would it be worth the time and effort to swap the 6 cylinder motor to my F2 and just hang on to the 4 cylinder engine? The 200 cubic inch motor runs ok, it just starts hard on cold days. The 6 cylinder has 112 HP vs the 4 cylinder @ 95 Hp. I would have to think that the additional horsepower would be beneficial at times.

   Any thoughts or opinions about the engine swap?


   Thanks,



Replies:
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2025 at 5:16pm
If you swap, take hydraulic pump/reservoir with each engine & its radiator doghouse cover as whole unit.
The F2 with the 6 cylinder 2800 is a 1977 shortback. It has a shorter shoe/chaffer/sieve area than the 1978-82 433I F2/ 1983-86 F3 ~ both also good efficient machines as is….
Depending on how the 77’ is setup for capacity, you might just run it “as is?” It may just grow on you?


Posted By: tractorman21
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2025 at 5:25pm
Thanks for the opinion.

My F2 is a Hydro and the other F2 is gear drive. I have a flexible cutter bar grain head and the other has a ridgid head and it doesn't have the wobble box set up.
   I have spent a lot of money in the past few years replacing belts/Idlers/bearings/tires and many other items on my F2.
   I just thought it would interesting to have additional horsepower and it should be a pretty straight forward swap.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2025 at 5:41pm
You have skewed information on the HP. A non-turbo 6 cylinder 301 engine is 84 flywheel HP. The 4-cylinder turbo-intercooled engine was 95 HP. The Gleaner combine division didn't set you backwards in HP from 1977 to 1978.


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2025 at 6:50pm
Originally posted by tractorman21 tractorman21 wrote:

   Thanks for the opinion.

My F2 is a Hydro and the other F2 is gear drive.

I have a flexible cutter bar grain head and the other has a ridgid head and it doesn't have the wobble box set up.

   I have spent a lot of money in the past few years replacing belts/Idlers/bearings/tires and many other items on my F2.
   I just thought it would interesting to have additional horsepower and it should be a pretty straight forward swap.
A gear drive with a good variable speed can be just as convenient? The cab consoles's variable speed lever is also header lift, so comparable to hydro lever with thumb header switch.
I have run both style headers. Series 2 flex header with wobble drive is nice & can easily be operated without auto header height control for close cut crops like soybeans. The series 1 pitman drive rigid header can work decent in combo with auto header height hydraulic control that uses header feeler cable that hooks into hydraulic valve positioned outside right cab window. It an older system but it’s height rate drop knob & hydraulic flow rate can fine tune header height per operator’s preference & field conditions… In auto height mode, operator just detentes cab console height lever, drive on, & relax. If header starts pushing any debris/soil just pop lever up out of detent until it clears then detent it again.
OR like some, just setup 77’ F2/rigid header for cereal grains(wheat,rye,barley,oats,etc)??
F2 433I flex wobble for soybeans,,? F3 433I corn machine?
Can't emphasize enough, "give the 77' a fair shake as is." IMO, it deserves that much & you'll have an extra machine that you could leave setup for whichever mode you'd choose, or as a good backup machine??


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2025 at 7:06pm
Only time you'll lack power from the 4cyl is wading mud at full stick trying to bust through a mud hole picking corn. The drive belt will stall before the engine.


Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2025 at 7:12pm
4.33I is the best engine - most fuel efficient - will hold rpm and on and on.. Doc. #s on HP are right on - the 4.33 might be a tad hotter in production...

-------------
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..


Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2025 at 9:25pm
Can't see the yellow printing at all. 


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2025 at 10:11pm
Originally posted by AC7060IL AC7060IL wrote:

Originally posted by tractorman21 tractorman21 wrote:

   Thanks for the opinion.

My F2 is a Hydro and the other F2 is gear drive.

I have a flexible cutter bar grain head and the other has a ridgid head and it doesn't have the wobble box set up.

   I have spent a lot of money in the past few years replacing belts/Idlers/bearings/tires and many other items on my F2.
   I just thought it would interesting to have additional horsepower and it should be a pretty straight forward swap.
A gear drive with a good variable speed can be just as convenient? The cab consoles's variable speed lever is also header lift, so comparable to hydro lever with thumb header switch.
I have run both style headers. Series 2 flex header with wobble drive is nice & can easily be operated without auto header height control for close cut crops like soybeans. The series 1 pitman drive rigid header can work decent in combo with auto header height hydraulic control that uses header feeler cable that hooks into hydraulic valve positioned outside right cab window. It an older system but it’s height rate drop knob & hydraulic flow rate can fine tune header height per operator’s preference & field conditions… In auto height mode, operator just detentes cab console height lever, drive on, & relax. If header starts pushing any debris/soil just pop lever up out of detent until it clears then detent it again.
OR like some, just setup 77’ F2/rigid header for cereal grains(wheat,rye,barley,oats,etc)??
F2 433I flex wobble for soybeans,,? F3 433I corn machine?

Can't emphasize enough, "give the 77' a fair shake as is." IMO, it deserves that much & you'll have an extra machine that you could leave setup for whichever mode you'd choose, or as a good backup machine??
is that better?


Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2025 at 8:05am
Yes thanks Steve. And looks like original post has been repaired as well! Smile


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2025 at 8:45am
I took a chance of quoting it because it's always on a bark background. I could barely read it as was.


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2025 at 2:31pm
If the 433 is still running good, why change it?  You would be going to an older, less powerful engine with an unknown maintenance history.  Most of the 433s are hard to start.  That's why they have the ether injector.  My dad was planning to put a manifold heater from a 6080 on his F3 before he decided to quit farming.
Once you get the 433 running and up to speed, almost nothing will stop it.


-------------
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2025 at 8:58pm
My 78 F2 has the manifold heater in it. Not hooked up and the solinoid which could run it feeds the ether injector.


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2025 at 7:28am
Originally posted by Ed (Ont) Ed (Ont) wrote:

Yes thanks Steve. And looks like original post has been repaired as well! Smile
Sorry for my yellow print. Thanks SteveC/IL for ~ I imagine that you probably copied/pasted my mobile view to a readable classic view? And yes after realizing the issue, I too edited my original post, changing the yellow to default(black) font color.

If a member on this forum is using the “classic” view option located near bottom of page, then background is lighter yellow/soft crème color. So a yellow print doesn’t show ~ my bad for using it.

When using the “mobile” viewing, which I use most time with my smartphone, it’s background is black in color. Black affords better font color selections, an option in the upper reply toolbar box. By using different font colors, it can offer more noticeable differentiation per subtopics. Why? Because many times on this AC forum a posting can contain a multitude of sub-topic knowledge/experience/questions/ideas/tangents/etc. There are lots of knowledgeable folks here on the AC forum. And they share a tremendous amount of good info.
Whether you’re just a visitor, a steady viewer, or an active participant of AC equipment, the quantity of info, can be daunting to sift thru if you find yourself in a current and/or future occasion in need of referencing it. To that end, different font colors per sub-topic can be very useful.


Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2025 at 8:14am
Yes lots of very helpful people on this site!! Smile



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