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1944 Allis B

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=204861
Printed Date: 15 Jan 2025 at 9:09am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: 1944 Allis B
Posted By: CBenedict
Subject: 1944 Allis B
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 5:01pm
Hi all,
I have an 1944 Allis B, tractor #71401. We bought it as a project tractor for my son and I to work on. It was non-running, so we winched it up onto the trailer and rolled it off when we got it home in August-no problems. It became a winter project. We just finally put two new front tires on and replaced a flat rear tire. Now that she's mobile again, we were attempting to tow it to cover but it won't move. The engine turns over with the hand crank, with no problem (we had the exhaust covered). Clutch pedal moves and I can see the fingers moving when I look through the inspection hole at the bottom of the bell housing. When I rock the tires, though, it hits against a hard stop. We tried yanking gently with a Ranger and got no movement from the rear tires. When it was up on jacks for the tire change, rotating one tire caused the other to rotate the opposite way, whether the clutch was in or out. I was reading another post about Bs getting stuck in two gears, so I removed the side cover next to the gear selector this afternoon. All looked good inside. The gear selector fork on the bottom rod was reluctant to move but it did. The rods were clean and rust-free. Upon reassembly, I can click into any gear except reverse, so I must have done something wrong. 

1. Does anyone have a picture of how those forks go onto the gears? I aligned them to the grooved collars on the insides of the gears to reassemble. The gears slid back and forth by hand, but tractor would not roll by hand, regardless of gear position, whether clutch was in or out. There would be an audible click after a few inches of tire rotation and movement came to a standstill. 
2. What should I do next? It's been below freezing here for a couple of weeks. I'm throwing that out there in case that can have an effect. Oil inside side panel looked pretty good and there was no visible ice in the gears.

Thank you!



Replies:
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 5:33pm
Hmmm... could the PTO be in gear and stuck somehow?


Posted By: CBenedict
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 5:50pm
I don't think so. I just went out to try it again. It has a sickle bar mower on it, so I worked from the big pulley mounted to the output shaft in the rear. When I moved the lever up, the pulley locked to the drivetrain and I couldn't rotate it by hand. When the lever is down, the belt pulley turns freely and spins the shaft heading forward to the sickle drive. It doesn't stop or get held up. I rocked the tractor aggressively, by hand, with the PTO lever in both positions and it moves the same few inches of tire rotation before hitting that same something. I think I hear a knocking sound when it stops, coming from up by the clutch, but it's hard to tell if it's the sound of something hitting something else or just all the bracketry and parts of that sickle mower there rattling around.

Thank you!


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 6:12pm
rain gets thru the shift lever boot and collects in the transmission.. Now its BELOW ZERO and the water froze and has the shaft locked.. ... throw a tarp over the tractor and put a 1500 watt milk house heater under it and let it set for 4-5 hours...

if you have a fork truck or a small 4 wheel cart that you could stick under the draw bar and get the tires an inch off the ground... you could pull into the shop and let it thaw out there.


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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: CBenedict
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 6:30pm
It's worth trying! When I had the side cover off today, the oil at the bottom of the cavity with the gear selector was NOT a milk shake and was not frozen. The gears the shift forks move moved easily. But, I suppose water could have infiltrated the cavity behind the gears, the shaft cavity going up front to the clutch, or even the shafts and gears heading to the wheels.

Now the challenge is lifting the thing. I'll try putting it into my brother's heated shop if I can load it onto a trailer safely with my 60s Lull. Thanks!


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 6:39pm
if you have a LUL.... just pickup the tractor an inch with forks under the draw bar.. You PUSH.. Boy Steers to the shop..

this is very common when ..."well, it was working until the temp dropped to zero for a week"..

might try removing a couple of the pipe plug drains on the bottom to let things drain as it melts... there are 3 plugs... one under the trans, one under the bevel gear, one under the PTO / hydraulic pump case ... when your in the shop, put blocks under the drawbar frame so tires are an inch off the ground... check rotation every couple days.


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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 6:49pm
to get the shift cover back on, the gears have to be in NEUTRAL and the shift forks / lever need to be in NEUTRAL.... if you can slide the gears by hand, but can't get the TIRES to roll, then it will be hard to find Neutral ( assuming things are FROZE with ice).... with your other notes on the clutch and final drive, it is POSSIBLE that REV gear is froze and causing the problem, and the shift lever and forks are in the RIGHT POSITION now.. since you can turn the top shaft to the PTO, im thinking you are alread in NEUTRAL ??


When I moved the lever up, the pulley locked to the drivetrain and I couldn't rotate it by hand. When the lever is down, the belt pulley turns freely and spins the shaft heading forward to the sickle drive

so your Engine clutch is working OK and the trans TOP SHAFT is working OK and the PTO drive ( top) is working OK ..... sounds like stuck at BOTTOM of trans..


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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 7:03pm
Originally posted by CBenedict CBenedict wrote:

... When I moved the lever up, the pulley locked to the drivetrain and I couldn't rotate it by hand. When the lever is down, the belt pulley turns freely and spins the shaft heading forward to the sickle drive...

Good. That eliminates the PTO

Originally posted by CBenedict CBenedict wrote:

... I think I hear a knocking sound when it stops, coming from up by the clutch...

Originally posted by CBenedict CBenedict wrote:

... When it was up on jacks for the tire change, rotating one tire caused the other to rotate the opposite way, whether the clutch was in or out...
That indicates that the brakes and final drives are not locked up, but the pinion gear at the output of the transmission is not rotating for whatever reason.

Originally posted by CBenedict CBenedict wrote:

... Upon reassembly, I can click into any gear except reverse, so I must have done something wrong.

Probably need to pull the side cover again and take a very careful look at those gears meshing


Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 7:20pm



Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 9:05pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

rain gets thru the shift lever boot and collects in the transmission.. Now its BELOW ZERO and the water froze and has the shaft locked.. ... throw a tarp over the tractor and put a 1500 watt milk house heater under it and let it set for 4-5 hours...

if you have a fork truck or a small 4 wheel cart that you could stick under the draw bar and get the tires an inch off the ground... you could pull into the shop and let it thaw out there.

X2
I had the exact same situation with a B I brought home. Drained over a gallon of water from the transmission


Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2025 at 8:01am
My C was frozen dosnt take a lot of water to freeze the counter shaft its in the bottom. I thaewed in a shop and drained a couple quarts of water out before oil started coming out. i put some diesel and ran it around the shop drained again and filled with HyTrans oil its been good for many years. I have new shift boots on all my tractors and they almost never sit outside.


Posted By: Kiwi
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2025 at 11:35pm
Hi just a thought try losing the bolts that holds the mower frame to the bell housing they might be hitting the fly wheel

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Tractors Allis EB,two C,diesel G


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2025 at 6:05am
Originally posted by Kiwi Kiwi wrote:

Hi just a thought try losing the bolts that holds the mower frame to the bell housing they might be hitting the fly wheel

That was the line of thinking I had. Has someone replaced a bolt, with a longer bolt, that is sticking through and something that rotates is making contact with the too long bolt.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2025 at 6:56am
bolt is a good idea if the engine will not rotate......when its in neutral, it will roll with the engine locked... He had that when he bought it and rolled it off the trailer...now it will not roll... problem is in the trans.

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: 55allis
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2025 at 10:09am
Most likely water …
Redid a Farmall M for a neighbor and he thought it was stuck, ended up being 5 gallons of water with a gallon of oil when it’s supposed to have 13 gallons of 80w90. Since it sat with water it almost took every seal out so watch out for those…


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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45


Posted By: tadams(OH)
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2025 at 10:15am
Had a WD45 do that once in the winter, waer from condesation was in the pto housing and had to leave it set till it warmed up, when it warmed up drained water out it everything was okay.



Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2025 at 7:59am
Any updates?



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