Farm Equipment - Cylinder bottom door on R50

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Cylinder bottom door on R50

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=204586
Printed Date: 21 Dec 2024 at 9:59pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: Cylinder bottom door on R50

Posted By: Fritz
Subject: Cylinder bottom door on R50
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2024 at 8:37am

Whenever the door blows open it takes 2 people to close and latch it. Using the official wrench, the door can be swung upwards and closed, and it stays there. The difficulty comes when trying to latch it. Turning the latch shaft has a tendency to push down the door, far enough that the door can't hook on the lip of the cylinder. So I need a body to hold upwards on the door shaft with a socket on a breaker bar, while I set the latch with the official Gleaner wrench.

The latch seems to work correctly, it snaps in cleanly and stays latched until another slug goes up there.

What am I doing wrong? Thanks, Fritz

Replies:

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2024 at 9:26am

Works best if door moves freely. Easier to hold in place while snapping latch. It is a chore at least on a 62.

Posted By: Fritz
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2024 at 9:54am

The door swings freely and claps up squarely over (under?) the opening. There are two little spring clip things that hold the door up while moving the wrench to the latching shaft, but they are no match for the force it takes to set the latch.... which isn't much.

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2024 at 12:30pm

So yours is designed to only use one wrench? My 62 takes 2. One to hold door up and the other to lock latch. You are pulling on door wrench while pushing on latch wrench so it kinda works together.

Posted By: Fritz
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2024 at 1:14pm

There are two hex shafts... one to swing the door up and the other (which is recessed within the combine sidewall) to rotate the latch home.
Am presently using two wrenches, one to hold the door in place and the factory one to lock the latch. Problem is, there is not enough room for both wrenches to face the same direction with the belts and elevators in the way. So someone has to stand on the ground and push up on the door while I stand on the elevator and turn the latch shaft.
So I figured I was doing something wrong, given my tendency to do wrong things.

Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2024 at 5:21am

I'm trying to jar loose a memory here. I am pretty sure that there is a bolt on the outside of the machine that is threaded inward. When you shut the rock door, the edge of the door slides alongside the end of the bolt. You run the bolt in far enough that the door rubs tight enough against the end of the bolt to sort of use friction to hold the door closed while latching it.
Darrel

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2024 at 6:26am

Like almost everything that is 35 years old, it just doesn't work like when it was new. Darrel is correct. There is a rubberized friction bolt that is supposed to keep the door UP (after you slam it shut) in the closed position so you just have to latch it. This might even be covered in your Operators manual as how to adjust it.

Posted By: Fritz
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2024 at 6:27am

I will check that , thank you

Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2024 at 10:33am

Fought this, we use a China cheap 3/4 " ratchet with socket and extension and a small ratchet strap. Slam the door - use the ratchet to hold close with a strap on on the handle attached to the rear to keep it from coming down. Then latch with the long bar.

Keep in mind the door adjusts with the two springs opposite than normal. Read the book.

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