7000 engine change out
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=204120
Printed Date: 14 Nov 2024 at 6:39am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7000 engine change out
Posted By: Lab Rat 67
Subject: 7000 engine change out
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2024 at 4:11pm
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I have a maroon belly 7000 and when I bought it I couldn't hear the engine knock. Bad on me. Pretty sure I have a rod on its way out. I have another 301 from a combine to install. Does anyone have any tips for this? I've replaced the 426 on our 8050 but just wondered if it was similar. It looks straight forward but I've been here before. Thanks in advance.
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Replies:
Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2024 at 6:55pm
Before you go too far, confirm what that ‘knock’ really is.
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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Posted By: Lab Rat 67
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2024 at 7:17pm
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It's running 10-15 pounds of oil pressure. Knocks when there is no load and at idle. It's not the front pulley. I can drop the pan and check bearings but I think it's on it's way out.
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Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2024 at 8:17pm
Check the oil, make it’s not diluted with diesel fuel. 10-15 lbs cold idle? Hot wide open? Check the quality of the diesel, old crappy fuel can do weird things to a running engine.
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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Posted By: Lab Rat 67
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2024 at 7:41am
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Oil is good. No diesel in it. Fuel is fresh but I'll go thru it and double check. 15 lbs of pressure hot 2200 rpm. If it had 25 at 2200 I'd be more comfortable although that's kinda low too. I'll pull it out of the shop and let it warm up and see if I can find where the knock is coming from.
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Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2024 at 9:04am
Just for giggles, toss some ‘fuel dryer’ in the tank.
As long as your at it, change the oil & filter, use a name brand straight 30 weight(for diesels), see how the oil pressure holds up.
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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2024 at 9:54am
If it's knocking, quit running it and drop the pan to see what is wrong. Keep running it, you'll have an air cooled engine with a rod hanging out the side, you'll then know exactly which one wanted out!
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Posted By: Lab Rat 67
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2024 at 10:14am
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Funny. Trying to avoid that! It's a tractor I didn't really need but got it for raking hay. Now I'm questioning my decision. When I bought it it came with a spare motor but I don't relish swapping them out. It's a lot of work
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Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2024 at 7:01pm
The combine engine swap will require the change out of the front covers and dealing with the cam. Either pull the gear or lay it on the side and pull the rocker arms ( you can tie up the lifters if you have the proper dowels. ) pullng the cam.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2024 at 7:56am
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Lots of variations in the 301 combine engines. Different heads, water pumps, oil coolers,injection pumps, turbo or non turbo, oil pumps, etc etc etc.
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Posted By: Lab Rat 67
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2024 at 9:09am
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So I'd have to pull the cam? I thought the gear would bolt up on the front cover. Everything else looks the same. Same turbo but different pump. I may be plastigauging my bearings to see what I can live with. All great info from everyone. Thank you
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2024 at 10:29am
If you have a rod knocking, you won't need to plastigauge it, just grab them and wiggle them, it's probably blued also. It could have a scored piston knocking though. That's much easier to fix than a spun bearing or thrown rod. The cam gear is a heavy press fit to the cam.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2024 at 10:33am
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There is a thread on the "Knowledge" section on this. It ain't near as easy as itseems.
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