Source for CJ-4 diesel oil………
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=204022
Printed Date: 14 Nov 2024 at 12:12am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Source for CJ-4 diesel oil………
Posted By: Lars(wi)
Subject: Source for CJ-4 diesel oil………
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2024 at 10:29am
|
Other than going to a farm implement stealership, I’m trying to get some 30w CJ-4 engine oil. Recently acquired a 1991 F-350 w/7.3 IHC engine. Ford and Navistar still call for straight 30 weight for temps above 0* F. for this particular engine. We don’t have any co-ops, or Farm & Ranch supply stores that stock it. No Case/IH dealerships that I know of, to get IH #1 oil. ------------- I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science. |
Replies:
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2024 at 10:44am
|
Rotella T1 is still available at Walmart last time I checked. Rural King carries Delvac 1630 which is a diesel 30wt engine oil. They are only rated CF-4, but is a 30wt diesel engine oil. I don't recall CJ-4 ever being available in a straight weight oil (it may not be possible to meet the specs without being a multi-weight oil). Best, Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2024 at 11:35am
|
Read the label for API codes: CJ-4: C=Compression ignition J=Upgrade usage 4= Specific upgrade date usage ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2024 at 1:44pm
|
going to be hard to find a CJ4 oil in straight 30wt as Hurst said..... Lots of options if you go to 10- 30 or 15- 40 .........I know what your book says, but is 35 years old.... Maybe UPGRADE to a 15w-40 ??
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2024 at 2:39pm
I could easily go with 15w40, according to the previous owner, he changed oil just a couple days before selling. Supposedly there is STP brand 15w40 in it right now. This truck will more than likely be in front of our 35ft travel trailer 80-90% of the time. As we are in west-central Texas, and very seldom do temperatures stay below 32* F for any extended time. ------------- I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science. |
steve(ill) wrote:Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2024 at 2:47pm
| We serviced lots of those engines in our shop. International dealership. All went down the road with 15-40. Most in school bus application. |
Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2024 at 4:27pm
|
I drive a 1992 F250 with 7.3 IDI engine and an ATS turbo system and all it's ever had is a 15-40 oil in the 20 years I've had it. Never any problems and it's seen a lot of heavy hauling. |
Posted By: ekjdm14
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2024 at 8:03am
|
Agree with all the above, multigrade can only ever be an upgrade in my opinion. Easier cold starting/better cold oil flow coupled with higher stability when the temperatures get up there. If your hot oil pressure is good then I'd stay with 10 or 15w-30, I'd usually only go heavier if things are a bit tired &/or it's using a lot. One area I'd be careful of in terms of "newer=better" thinking, is detergents. If an engine's been run on straight mineral or semi-synth and low detergent levels then it is possible that crud has built up over the years that would be knocked loose by a high detergent content & cause issues with plugging oilways or getting into bearings. Not based on any science, but my thinking is if it's always run non-detergent then don't start now. Fresh rebuilds are different, run a good synthetic high-detergent oil from the get go & it'll stay cleaner for longer but if it's "used to" dinosaurs then best not to introduce a variable. FWIW I feel like a lot of the detergent additive packages in oil now are aimed at increasing the spill interval & not really needed if you stick to regular changes in the first place, but for a fresh engine they're not going to hurt much either.
|
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2024 at 6:25pm
| What uses non detergent oil in the past 30 years? |
Posted By: ekjdm14
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2024 at 6:25am
|
Not sure what or if it's still even available, but my policy has always been to run the cheapest "known brand" (i.e. not just random ulong dingdong Amazon brand, usually use Mannol) but it's likely got some kind of detergent package I suppose anyway. My thinking is that more expensive oils probably have more/better detergents. (The amount of sludge in some modern engines suggests cheaper oils don't have as much anyway) Whether it's true or not, I just use cheap and change often. Works out OK as the used oil goes right in the fuel tank of our old diesels...
|
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2024 at 8:35am
|
in the US , engine oils meet a "C" spec for diesel or a "S" spec for gasoline use..... You can buy the CHEAPEST ENGINE OIL that Wal Mart sells and IT WILL MEET THE API SPEC.... It might have a slightly DIFFERENT addative package than SHELL or MOBIL or a NAME BRAND... but it will be 100% ACCEPTABLE for any engine.. PER THE SPEC.
SAE sets the SPEC for the VISCOSITY of the oil... -------------- The API oil standard
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2024 at 8:53am
Normally a "NEWER OIL" will be backward Compatable... ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2024 at 10:19am
|
Many newer oils are NOT backwards compatible. Take for instance the latest and greatest oils that have very low or no Zinc content, use then in your older engine without a roller camshaft and you'll soon be looking for another engine or a rebuild. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2024 at 10:47am
| rottello t4 15w-40 will work just fine you probley will not find what you are looking for at the dealerships anyways like paul b says t4 still has about the most zinc our shop uses shell or valvoline we also use it in all our older gas engines and our gas tractors because of the higher zinc done us good for many years |
Posted By: Carl(NWWI)
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2024 at 9:20am
| Where in Wisconsin are you? I’m a dealer for Viscosity oil company, who was the original engineer and oil producer for IH up until 2021. Have 30w on hand. I’m in Somerset. |
Posted By: Clayfoot
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2024 at 10:46am
IH IDI, use 15-40 year round with some Lucas stabilizer in it and keep a gallon jug of top off in the truck. I've been running IDI's and wrenching in then for awhile. Rotella T4 has been known to burn a little faster in them, so I normally run Delvac. Rotella T6 is about the best all round diesel oil when considering the price point as a factor. Most important thing with them is to keep the fuel system sealed up. I delete all of the "olive" seals in the fuel system. If you do that, replace the return line caps and o-rings with viton o-rings and are still having some air intrusion, go to a 1 piece fuel filter/separator and delete the filter head preheater while you're in there. Most don't work and are a common intrusion point. As for fuel parts, best bet is Justin Anderson/IDI Performance. We just lost Russ of Russ Repair here recently and IMHO, other than being a great guy, he was a bit better on the customer service side of things and a touch cheaper on rebuilt injectors without cutting any corners. |
Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2024 at 3:14pm
|
Actually moved to Texas in 2013, can’t locate any CaseIH dealerships near me. Did pickup Chevron Delo 400 30w last week, now this morning saw at the Walmart in Gatesville TX, Mobil Delvac 1 ‘Extreme’ 15w40 Full Synthetic for $15.00 per gal. And Royal Purple 15w40 Full Synthetic for $30.00 per gallon. Now I’m at a dilemma. ------------- I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science. |
Posted By: Clayfoot
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2024 at 7:07pm
| If you don't mind spending the $$, grab the royal purple. I always recommend getting a PSD oil filter as well so you get that extra quart of oil in there got the extra cooling/heat soak capacity. Easier to get ahold of to remove when you changed it too, not to mention is typically available on the shelf. Same threads on the filter as the IDI filter. |
Posted By: Carl(NWWI)
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2024 at 8:25pm
| I would just use Rotella 10w30 then. |