D10 Hydraulic Problems
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=203924
Printed Date: 22 Nov 2024 at 6:59am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D10 Hydraulic Problems
Posted By: DaveSB
Subject: D10 Hydraulic Problems
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 4:17pm
Hey all,
I have a D10 that I’ve had for around 10 years. The hydraulics always worked ok. Well they went up and down when told to and held position just fine. Traction booster never worked.
Well now the lift wants too raise any time the tractor is running. It is a series 2 with live hydraulics. The control valve feels funny now, not wanting to click into position. Also the traction booster valve that rides on the 3 point has always just been tied on to the tractor with wires. It is still hooked up to the control handle but the whole valve just goes up and down with the control handle. It does not ride on the 3 point linkage like I think it should. I don’t really know how that valve is supposed to be mounted. I don’t see a way to keep it on the 3 point linkage, but I’ve never seen another series 2 to see how it is supposed to be mounted. I don’t know if that valve is part of the problem or not.
Does the main valve give many problems? And is it rebuildable? Does it have o-rings in it that could have went bad?
Anyway the main problem is that the 3 point arms will constantly raise slowly and not go down anymore.
Anyone seen this before? Or any suggestions on what I should look for to fix this problem?
Also if anyone has a picture of how the boost valve is supposed to be attached I’d appreciate seeing how it hooks up.
Thanks for any help with this issue.
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1948 C, 1953 CA, 1948 WD, 1961 D-17 Series 2 Diesel, 1939 WC, 1957 D14
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Replies:
Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 6:02pm
We had much the same issue with my Dad's D10. When I checked it out it was the round rod in the linkage mechanism that had slipped slightly. It has that little 'lock screw' to hold it in place. I would check that first as it may not be more serious than that.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Posted By: DaveSB
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 6:24pm
Thanks for responding, is this lock screw in the main valve?
I will look tomorrow.
Thanks
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1948 C, 1953 CA, 1948 WD, 1961 D-17 Series 2 Diesel, 1939 WC, 1957 D14
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Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 11:25pm
If you follow the handle for the hydraulic control there is a skinny metal rod that connects and goes to the external control down the back, you'll see the set screw that holds the rod adjustment in place. I stood behind the tractor (while not running) and as I moved the hand control from 'lower to raise and back down', I could tell the rod was not fully secured. After starting the engine I played around with the handle and rod travel until it was all good, then tightened the set screw. It has been normal ever since.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Posted By: DaveSB
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2024 at 1:31pm
Eric,
I went and looked at my tractor and it doesn’t have the control rod that you mentioned.
Mine has a 2 spool hydraulic valve and just hose connections. It is a series 2 with live hydraulics. Is your D10 have a live pump or a CA style pump? I have a CA and the pump on it has the rod and set screw like you have mentioned. The series 1 used a CA style pump. Is my tractor missing something or does yours have the CA style pump? I tried to include a picture of my valve but couldn’t figure out how to load the picture. It was too large, it said.
Thanks for your help, if you know how to load pictures and could send one of your pump and this linkage it would be great.
Thanks.
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1948 C, 1953 CA, 1948 WD, 1961 D-17 Series 2 Diesel, 1939 WC, 1957 D14
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Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2024 at 3:08pm
Dave... after my reply last night I thought I should've mentioned that my Dad's D10 is one of the early ones (no doubt like a CA) and of course I don't know how the series II is set up. This way I don't really have any words of help for you. I'm sure, given a bit of time, someone on the forum here will come along with the insights you need, hopefully the fix won't be too complicated.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Posted By: DaveSB
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2024 at 4:16pm
I appreciate the reply, thanks for trying. Maybe someone with a series 2 will see this and respond.
Yea the series 1 was like a CA, on the series 2 they went with a quill shaft somehow driven off the engine all the way to the back and a hydraulic pump that was turning anytime the engine was running, and it has a 2 spool valve mounted to the right of the seat. I think my problem may be in the valve, but I don’t know anything about it or if it’s repairable.
Thanks
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1948 C, 1953 CA, 1948 WD, 1961 D-17 Series 2 Diesel, 1939 WC, 1957 D14
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Posted By: DaveSB
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 8:33pm
Any ideas?
Would appreciate any help.
Dr. Allis, any thoughts? I always look for your advice.
Thanks for any and all responses. Dave
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1948 C, 1953 CA, 1948 WD, 1961 D-17 Series 2 Diesel, 1939 WC, 1957 D14
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2024 at 9:34pm
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Sounds like a valve problem. I know nothing about a D-10.
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Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2024 at 3:43pm
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The series II was a poorly designed set up at best. The add in valve for the traction booster must be leaking internally. If it has been removed for the linkage, it should have no effect on what the lift arms do. That valve is probably impossible to find as a NOS unit. If you don't really need the traction booster, just remove it an plug where the lines dis-connect. Also the spool valve by the fender could be worn out and leaking by, even if you don't put it in the Traction Booster position.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Posted By: DaveSB
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2024 at 8:45pm
Thanks Paul, yes the traction booster valve is still connected by hoses, but it is just hanging on the rear of the tractor by wires, just rigged to not fall off. I had wandered how to bypass it, thanks I’ll just disconnect and plug the lines as you suggested.
The spool valve by the fender, are these repairable or rebuildable? Or am I just out of luck on it? Are there any O-rings inside of this valve that might help to be replaced?
If the spool valve can’t be fixed can I just plumb in some other type of valve? What type would I need?
Thanks for the reply and tips, and thank you Dr. Allis for your reply as well.
I’d love to fix this hydraulic problem because the rest of the tractor is in great shape with live hydraulics and independent pto. Allis should have done more tractors with these options when they made this one.
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1948 C, 1953 CA, 1948 WD, 1961 D-17 Series 2 Diesel, 1939 WC, 1957 D14
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Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2024 at 6:35am
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The OEM hydraulic valve could possibly be rebuilt at a competent hydraulic shop. It's probably worn beyond just replacing O-rings. If it was mine, I'd look a a 6-8 GPM 2 spool valve from Surplus Center that had a single action spool for the lift and a double action spool for the remote. Or if you really want to get the Traction Booster system working, get the fender valve and everything else from a D10/12 series III and switch to the better system.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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