D14 split
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=203768
Printed Date: 25 Nov 2024 at 4:12am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D14 split
Posted By: AC720Man
Subject: D14 split
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2024 at 12:30pm
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After running my new to me D14 for a few hours it looks like I’m going to have to do a split at the transmission to replace both seals on each side of the PD shaft where it exits the transmission. This is disappointing since the only leak when I tested the tractor was a known pinion or axle seal. It took several hours of running for this to show up. I’m sure this is due to the tractor sitting in the barn for 2 years and not ran. Will be a first for me at the trans of a D series other than pinion and axle seals. Will be researching the manual on the procedure. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Replies:
Posted By: Pat the Plumber CIL
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2024 at 12:45pm
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I have been told you can do it from outside on a D17. Never tried myself though. ------------- You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails 1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF. |
Posted By: pirlbeck
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2024 at 12:56pm
| The PD operating cross shaft can be removed without splitting the tractor. The cross shaft has an o-ring groove towards each end. |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2024 at 2:33pm
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You do not have to split the tractor to replace the seals on the power director shaft (the one that the big stick is connected to). Very easy job. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2024 at 9:14pm
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Really? That’s great news. Just looking at it appeared I would have to spit it? Hope the procedure is in a manual. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2024 at 10:26pm
| Remove the setscrew from the big stick. Operate the big stick back and forth until it breaks loose from the shaft. Reinstall the setscrew loosely and pull back fully into low range. Remove the clutch cover on the right side. Reach inside the hand clutch area and remove the setscrew from the fork. Operate the big stick back and forth until the fork is free from the shaft. Remove the snap ring and washer from the left side. Remove the big stick and washers. Move the shaft sideways right and left and change out both Orings one at a time. Oil the new Orings so they slide together. Reassemble. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2024 at 11:17pm
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Thanks Dr Allis! Your description is better than any manual. So glad I don’t have to split it. Will get the o-rings ordered tomorrow. Thanks to everyone who also replied. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2024 at 1:34pm
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You would of found this out if you started the job , shaft has to be remove to split tractor at P D and trans ------------- He who dies with the most toys is, nonetheless ,still dead. If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2024 at 7:01pm
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Ordered the o-rings today, should have these 2 leaks repaired this weekend. I will give a follow up when I get it repaired. I did remove the set screw and loosened the PD stick, so its ready to be removed. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 2:01pm
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Finally getting around to replace the o-rings. Drained the PD oil and it definitely needed changing. What oil are you guys using? Book says SAE 20W/20. Should I use 821 Power Fluid? ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 2:43pm
| YES. Use it in the power steering and hydraulics and even the transmission and final drives. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 3:10pm
 ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 3:13pm
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Thank you sir. My first issue, outer plate came off fine but this one appears to be stuck. I’ve tapped around it with a small hammer. Am I just not being forceful enough? Haven’t had one of these apart before. Even tapped it with a blunt punch but no movement. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 3:16pm
Keep tapping on it. Doesn't look like it has ever been removed. The gasket probably has a good hold on it. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
AC720Man wrote:Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 3:22pm
You might be able to rig up a slide hammer to one of the studs... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 6:13pm
| Drive a small flat blade screwdriver into the gasket at the top and it will peel away. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 6:34pm
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All good suggestions and some I thought of but too shy to try it. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t about to do something stupid. Definitely has never been off before, the PD works great, good snap in high and low. Once I get these 2 o-rings replaced do you normally go back with just a new gasket or add a little sealant on each side of the new gasket? From previous experience I rarely find sealant on factory gaskets. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 11:27pm
| I'm wary of dry gaskets. Kinda depends. I like to smear just enough silicone to color it. No excess. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 5:55am
| Depends on what you want to do. Depends on how damaged your gasket is when you get it apart. Zero gasket and RTV instead works fine. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2024 at 9:16pm
 ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2024 at 9:32pm
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Followed Dr Allis’s excellent instructions and all went well. The cover plate was more difficult to remove than I imagined. Whatever sealant they used at the factory had the plate stuck tight. It was also quite difficult to remove the old gasket and sealant from the parts once I got it off. 1 1/2 hrs later I was done. At least 30 minutes of that time was removing the gasket and sealant from the transmission and cover plate. Took my time as I had never done this procedure before and also took the time to look around inside. Now I understand how the pto coupler and shifter operate. Pretty clean inside with no sign of water entry. I made a new gasket and applied a light coat of RTV since the factory had used a sealant. Will allow it set up over night before I put fluid back in tomorrow and verify my repair was successful. I did not see any damage to the old O-rings but they were more firm than the new ones. Guessing that’s why they were leaking. Thanks to everyone who replied and especially to Dr Allis for his excellent instructions. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2024 at 9:38am
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I just went through that in order to split and repair transmission issues on my D14. Learned a lot, the manuals are a bit sketchy on details. First time the lever shaft was hard slide out, spent some time cleaning corrosion on end that sticks out. I actualy had to split it again to fix something I missed the first time, second time was a lot easier. The fit to the shift fork is pretty tight. ------------- 1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2024 at 1:44pm
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We have multiple D series tractors so now I know how to repair the others if they ever leak. This forum has been a huge help for me over the years. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |