I had previously remove the bolts holding down the bracket behind the hydraulic stack, lift up the whole area a bit, and tighten the allen head screws Dr. Allis tight

be danged if everying worked... until it didn't.

so I took a deeper dive into it.    What I found was the C-clamp (bit of mickey mouse POS) was broken at one of the screw holes.

So, now what.... I'm in Canada, the cost to buy/ship that little piece of metal would be silly... So, I thought, why didn't they use a solid rod C-Clamp/U-bolt like at the lever end of the cable.

So, I made one.  I went to a local hardware store, and although they didn't have any U-bolts in the size I needed, I DID find a wire cable clamp, where the U-bolt appeared to be nearly the right size.

So, I bought one, took it apart, and modified the size by forming it over an anvil of appropriate size.  I had to spread it out a bit, then insert the anvil into the C, and bring it back around so it was "JUST" slip over the groove.

This left the legs a bit wider, so I drilled out the holes (just drilled near/between the screw holes so they remain undamaged) just enough to get it to fit through.

a couple washers/lockwashers, and installed everything. (sure would be easier to have a kid there to move the lever when needed) 

I could access the nuts from inside the cab, through the floor.  

removing the bolt/bracket from on top the Range/Park shaft, and unbolting the ball/Socket cable end allowed enough movement to get at the nuts to tighten.

with the really snug fit on the cable groove, I didn't get too heavy handed on the nuts, only really snug with lock washers, so I wouldn't crush the cable.

I felt that the fit is better, SOLID, so there would be minimal issues with movement/slipping.

bolted down the rear bracket.

tried the lever and all felt well enough.  

Fired up and ran a test.

a bit stiff as before, I assume from lack of a functioning Transmission brake, and many years of lack of lube, but worked as before. 

the cable alignment is just a bit lower, which keeps the cable more straight on that the original.

IF I could have sourced an AC U-bolt that matched the front, I'd have gone that route, as I think the ends are identical, and it would have made life a LOT easier.

I'm just putting this out there, in case anyone else is having big issues with their Range/Park cable rear clamp.

I'll add, that after a few times digging into that area, the solid mechanical lever through the floor looks like a pretty easy modification.

I may look into that in the future, but for now, I have my extra 10 gears at hand.

Well I'm impressed ! You bought ONE 'clamp' and made it work !!!!

I'm a 'Noah' kind of guy, tend to order things in 2s (or 3s or 4s...... )

Maybe look at what Princess Auto has,if there's one nearby. Heck latest flyer shows that now carry  front tires for D-14 ! ??

well I'd be really,really impressed if you ONLY bought that one clamp from PA !!!

When I go there to pickup my order, I always have to walk the isles and 'somehow' decided I need this, that and oh yeah 3 of those......

But we do what we can, Right?

I was ready to buy a long bolt, cut off the head, thread the shank, and bend it on an anvil.

if I had a few days, that would have been the better option, so it fit better.  But what I did worked OK, all I need to do is fabricate a heavier backing plate to replace the washers.  the heavy washers I had were too wide diameter, so had to use smaller/lighter ones, and my holes had to be enlarged to fit the angled legs.