Hd5 Shift linkage leaking BAD
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=201892
Printed Date: 28 Sep 2024 at 5:25am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Hd5 Shift linkage leaking BAD
Posted By: Noah
Subject: Hd5 Shift linkage leaking BAD
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2024 at 3:39pm
What is the proper way to seal this up. Lost like 50$ worth of oil in no time. Sae 50 isn't cheap... 
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Replies:
Posted By: Noah
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2024 at 3:41pm
| Also leaking from bottom corner of inspection cover, best way to reseal that? Thanks |
Posted By: gemdozer
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2024 at 6:28pm
| The HD5 transmission oil capacité is 5 gals. she must be over full and the oil should be 80/90 gear oil and on side transmission you should have inspection plate with a level plug |
Posted By: Noah
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2024 at 6:48pm
| 80w90 gear oil has sulfur and additives that destroy brass synchro, manual calls for sae 50 in trans. I am more concerned why it is leaking a steady flow from the linkage when over 2-3 gallons is in it. When i drained it and poured a 5gal bucket of fresh fluid, it started pissing fluid out from where linkage goes into tranny. The Inspection plate is only a slow drip. Thanks. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2024 at 7:34pm
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Sent message ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: gemdozer
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2024 at 8:27pm
| He should have a boot seal on that rod |
Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2024 at 11:00pm
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Always used gear oil in the transmission on the AC and Cat tractors from the 1950's. Yes a rubber boot. That rod locks the gears in place so they don't jump out of gear. Rod is released by movement of the clutch lever.
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Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2024 at 12:44am
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Back in the mid 1970's when GL-5 gear oil was fairly new I used to build, and rebuild a lot of manual transmissions using bronze syncronizer rings and sleeve bearings. GL-3, and GL-4 rated oils did not have the extreme pressure ratings or additives the new GL-5 oils did, but lubricity was very close to the same. However, a manual transmission rebuild did not run near as long with the later oil as opposed to the older oil. Fretting, and decomposition of non ferrous parts was found in many after disassembly when using GL-5 oil. Another rebuild and back to GL-4 oil and a good long service life was again the normal. I'm told this has been rectified and the GL-5 oils nowadays are compatible with bronze and brass parts in transmissions. I don't know myself but I still keep GL-4 rated oils at the shop and run them in anything having brass in the internals. As many know 90W gear lubricant, and SAE 50 oil are same viscosity's, but on different rating scales. My personal belief is the GL-5 oils were brought out about the timeframe when manufacturers were starting to lessen the non ferrous bearing content in machines and gearboxes, etc. GL-5 gained a less that stellar reputation on short order once failures started coming back into the shops and it was attributed to the oil. I kinda think it's why GL-4 is still so commonly available to this day. I have both in the shop but only run the GL-4 in my own stuff which is all older. ------------- A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now. |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2024 at 7:26am
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General gear has the new boots for $11 https://www.steeringclutch.com/achd5strcltch.htm" rel="nofollow - Allis Chalmers AC HD5 STEERING CLUTCH, flywheel clutch, final drive parts NEW AND USED ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2024 at 8:57am
Synchro's in an HD5... I wish!
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Noah wrote:Posted By: Noah
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2024 at 12:04pm
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Well after feeling like an idiot thinking it was leaking from the plunger, I put close to 5gal back in and now it's not leaking that I can see, except for inspection plate. I wonder if the shaft seal or pinion seal was dry and needed oil to swell up? When I first drained the oil, it was real brown and only about a gallon and half. Thank you everyone for help and CAL for locating the replacement boot. I will order one now. As far as the oil, I'm sure it will work fine with gear oil, im not sure I want to take the chance on accelerating failure on this already aged transmission. I am about to start what I estimate will be 50 hrs of dirt work and I'm praying I get that out of this machine. Thank you all for the continued support and answering my questions. Forums like this have saved me so many times. God bless. Edit* here's a picture of the canopy I threw together real quick. Works pretty good  
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Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2024 at 2:07pm
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unless its been changed over to the later 6g yoke the input shaft seal is a positive type seal. similar to what the final drives use not a rubber/nitrile lip seal. also available from general gear
there is no brass in the transmission. sliding gear style and steel thrust washers. been running 80-90 for years no issues. dont know what you are tackling but I can tell you from experience, teeth on the bucket help tremendously. straight cutting edge is worthless for digging unless its a stock pile or powder
------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2024 at 12:32pm
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Took the teeth off my bucket after first year of use , using it for finish work when grading new construction they left furrows instead of flat . For loading only fine but back-dragging not so much . Then in 45 years of working with the HD5G there a few times I thought of putting teeth back on - then just did the job of digging a basement or backfilling a septic or basement and moved on . Then my stock is sandy material so in loading Thousands of yards of that no teeth needed . ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2024 at 2:33pm
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Maybe not understanding what all is going on, but have replaced several rubber boots as that rod can leak a lot. Have not been using mine and forget how it is set up anymore. But a piece of information that saved me lot of extra parts. If you change the seal on the in put shaft, change the bearing as well. It comes out with out removing transmission. The top bearing generally goes out first, up high the oil drips off. All splash oiled, if it sits for a long time it can get really dry. If the upper bearing goes out, it drops the balls out to work through all the gear to get the bottom. This can break teeth off, or even split the case. As I remember not hard to get bearing out and was a easy to find bearing 25 years ago.
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